Value of 1983 911SC with broken head studs
 

Long story short, I'm going to be moving to Portland, OR and i need to sell my SC.

I really dont want to have to tear this motor down to fix it, as i want to just be rid of it and get going. I have confirmed it's leaking from where the head meets the cylinder.

I was wondering how much this is going to throw the value down.

motor has 163K on it, and ran VERY strong, shifted well, used a quart about every 1500 miles

Here's what the car has

Newly re-upholstered seats in black leather
GHL exhaust
Bilstein sport shocks (less than 3 months old)
Carrera oil cooler and fan
MSD igntion and new distributor (less than a year old)
Alpine CD/MP3/iPod with display interface and Infitini speakers all the way around

many other little things here and there, plus a bunch of extras and a set of 74 heat exchangers and muffler.

paint is a bit rough and has a few dents here and there.

I really dont have the time to fix this, and would like some insights on what to do. Ideally, i'd take the car with me, but I need the cash. Dont want to throw another $1000 in parts to fix it..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1128660446.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1128660496.jpg

Really, if you end up selling this thing, I would seriously be interested. I've got a strong engine to drop right into that haha. I'm not sure on a price though.

As a BUYER my logic would be...take the price of the car with a decent motor...say $12k-$13k...and subtract the price of a rebuild...what, $6k-$7k? So you're looking at about a $6k car. Not sure if that's fair or not, but that's probably all it's "worth".

I could be wrong...hopefully others will chime in.

With a 163k, you could be looking @ more than just a top rebuild.

$5-7k would be a seller.

just my 2 cents, jpc

where are you located? I'm looking for something like this.

His license plate shows California..

you could essentially do a stud repair only for about $2K and have it running again, burning a qt in 1500, and many thousand miles to go before having to do anything serious. i would think it's worth about $8-10K as is.

If you do full disclosure, or the buyer gets a good PPI, it's worth around $8k IMO.
That's what I paid for mine with new seats, new paint, and one broken stud on a 100,000 mile engine.

If you were unscrupulous you could get $13k if you waited long enough to find a sucker, but then we would all hate you for it.

I have a good car donation charity going. It would be a good write off for you.

I sent you a pm

That paint is pretty rough. And you can't count on 2K repair for a studs unless you do it all yourself. I am not looking, but if I were looking, my price would be in the 6K range, tops 7K and absolutely no more.

I paid $8.5K for my SC, perfectly running example of 180K miles, and perfect paint.

Sorry for the news.

Jared - I'd take John Walker's advice. If you don't do the stud repair yourself, fully disclose it. I think people on this thread tend to forget who is selling this car: which is you, who has a helluva a lot of experience with 911s, and has done a very nice amount of upgrades. The heat exchangers alone speak volumes. The wheels look like 7s and 8s, and the car appears to have some suspension work. I don't know - that's just on view of the photos.

I'd start at $9,000, maybe $8K. But factor in every single modification - don't just say "lots of extra little stuff" or whatever...

If I was looking, and while knowing your reputation with Pelican Parts, I'd highly consider this.

It'll take a particular buyer - one who doesn't mind a few dents, and likes a beater.

Hmmm...sounds like me. :D

Jared, your pm is full. 417-619-4837

i'll do studs only for $2K if that's all the customer wants to do, and no other stuff turns up that's terminal, in the process.

ok, here's an odd one...


Today i pulle dthe lower valve cover off and there's the barrel nut sitting right there. I grabbed a 10mm allen head socket and just tightened it back down, then re-torqued all the nuts. Problem seems to have been solved...

There was almost no corrosion on the nut or stud, which leads me to wonder why only one nut would back off....

any ideas here?