Please help me with my shopping list and spend some money

[Kroggers]

As some of you know, I have been experiencing some front end issues (OK, what the f**k is wrong here.....) and have now decided to define my winter project to sort it all out

Now, I am not an expert on what I need and what is a nice to have, so would appreciate some help here with my initial shopping list. The car is only used for road driving, with maybe a try sometime in the future on a track, but I want a nice solid set-up for the road. Additionally, I do not want to break the bank, but would like to go with some good upgrades to make things smother and better on my car. So, here is my first initial shopping list. I would appreciate any advice and guidance on what I have missed, and what I do not need. Reducing the cost a bit would be a +

C-341-049-01 : Ball Joint, 911 (1972-89), 914 mid 1972-76
C-341-119-06 : Threaded Pin for Ball Joint Attachment, 911 (1972-89), 914 (1972-76)
J-089-006-02 : Washer for Ball Joint Threaded Pin
K-084-019-02 : Lock Nut for Ball Joint Threaded Pin
A-341-425-00 : Nut for Ball Joint to A-Arm Attachment (sold per each), 911/912 (1969-89), 914-4/6 (1970-76)
A-341-426-00 : Lock Plate for Ball Joint Bottom (sold per each), 912, 911, 914
N-012-521-1 : Ball Joint Bottom Split Pin (sold per each), 912, 911, 914
PEL-TOL-P210 : Ball Joint Pin Wrench Socket, 1/2 Drive, 911 (1965-89), 914-4/6 (1970-76)
ERMP-2051000 : Elephant Racing, Front Poly Bronze Suspension Bushings (set of 4), 912/911/911 Turbo (1968-89), 914/4-6 (1970-76) for factory control arms
ERMP-2071600 : Low-Friction Control Arm Mount Kit - Elephant Racing - 911/912/930/914 all (1968-89)
K-059-065-00 : Front Outer Wheel Bearing, 911 (1965-89), 914-6, 924S All, 944/944 Turbo thru 86
K-059-098-00 : Front Wheel Bearing, Inner, 924S All, 944/944 Turbo thru 86, 911/912 (1965-89), 914-6
477-405-641 : Front Wheel Seal, (sold per each, 2 required per vehicle), 356C/356SC (1964-65), 911 (1965-89),912, 912E, 914-6, 924S/944/968 All, 928 all
TTK-930 911 : Turbo Tie Rod Kit 911/912/912E (1969-89), 914 All
Total price: $832.10

What about the Torsion Bars, A-Arms and Sway Bars - should I replace them as well??

[livi]

Pål,

Wanna spend some money ??

Lets go crazy in Copenhagen for a weekend !!

Seriously, I can´t of course give any valid advice - as you know.

But what about the status of your shocks ?

Will you (at least lie about ) doing this work your self ?

[Kroggers]

Markus, I was in Copenhagen last week - we should have done it then

The shocks are new, they were replaced at the beginning of the year - so, one job I do not have to undertake

And after having spent all my money on new parts, I have no choice (or money) to do it any other way then by myself, and I hope with some help from some friends and family

[livi]

This should be good !

At least I have probably had a go with the turbo tie rods before you do - so you will be able to avoid all the stupid novice mistakes I am bound to experience...

[Kroggers]

Did you also get all the special tools to do the tie rods?? If you did, when you are done, can I borrow them from you???

[livi]

Duh, what special tools ???

I do have both types of special tools for removing the tie rod end. Doesn´t everyone ??

What else do I need ?

Sure, you can borrow what ever you need and knock yourself out - right after I have.

[Kroggers]

Cool, thank you. Now - if someone here can join in and review my initial shopping list, that would be great

[livi]

Yeah, someone with relevant comments for a change.

They are all sound a sleep over there at this hour...

[jbrinkley]

how about sway bar bushings

[Kroggers]

Thank you Jerry - I will add that to my list...

[jbrinkley]

caliper rebuild kits? new or turned rotors? this is a good time to do it if your putting new wheel bearings in. Brake lines?
if you use the low friction control arm mounts think about the longer bolts you will need for the front tow covers. After you put in those washer stacks your original bolts are too short. It took me a couple days to figure this out and find correct bolts from a place ion town.

[Kroggers]

Again, thank you Jerry. My main concern is the growing cost on this project, so I will leave the breaks to another time - for now I just want to sort out my current problems - one project at the time

Apart from that, can you see anything on my list which is overkill or missing??? I know that a lot of the Elephant Racing stuff is very good, but is it to much for a road only car? Should I just replace with OEM stuff??

[DW SD]

Originally posted by Kroggers
Again, thank you Jerry. My main concern is the growing cost on this project, so I will leave the breaks to another time - for now I just want to sort out my current problems - one project at the time

Apart from that, can you see anything on my list which is overkill or missing??? I know that a lot of the Elephant Racing stuff is very good, but is it to much for a road only car? Should I just replace with OEM stuff??

OEM bushings come with complete A-Arms in the front. It is actually cheaper to use the elephant racing products. OEM a-arms which come with the bushings are $300 to $400 each.

You may need the ER control arm mounts, too, depending if you tub is 100% straight. My tub has never been hit, but still needed the mounts to make the Elephant Racing a-arm installation proper.

This is a lot of work and money, but you should only have to do it once in 10 - 20 years, maybe less. AND you'll love it. I'd advise if you think you may want to upgrade Torsion Bars, do it now. Here's the problem, if you don't and decide to change later, you'll have to pay the $$$ for a proper alignment and corner balance TWO times. I made a lot of suspension modifications, which I'm glad I did, and was expensive. The corner balance, alignment and bump steer (bumpsteer because I lowered my car about 1.5" to 2") cost $800. Not cheap if you are going to do it twice.

Once you do these mods, you'll have to have it aligned and will want a corner balance, too, and possibly to have it bump-steered - depending upon how low you go.

Full boat for me was:
· Front – lengthened a-arms (+15mm), raised (30mm), gusseted spindles on Bilstein struts, Tarett, annodized adjustable sway bar, 21mm Torsion Bars, Tarett offset monoball camber plates, Tarett polished AL strut tower brace. Elephant racing control arm poly-bronze bushings and ER control arm mounts.
· Rear – ER torsion bar polybronze bushings, ER, monoballs, 30mm Torsion Bars, custom valved Bilstein shocks, Tarett adjustable sway bar

Figure out what you want to accomplish, plan and budget accordingly, that's the best advice I may offer.

Doug

[Kroggers]

Thank you Doug. I have already included the ER Control arm mount kit in my shopping list

I will also include the Torsion bar to my list.

[jbrinkley]

If I did it again I'd check/reuse C-341-119-06, save $40 if they're in good shape. use new lock nut though. Also on ball joint socket, people have said there's a 4wheel drive socket for a ford sold at parts stores that would work well. Or sell the p tool after you use it.
bags of cottor pins are available anywhere. No reason to pay .50 for just one.
I do like the ER stuff. IF I would have put the low friction stuff on in the first place I would have saved alot of the hassel
If you get the special socket and the strut is in a vice and removing the end nut with an impact you could possible save the and reuse the nut. I torched the whole entire thing red hot and still wouldn't come off. I ended up burning the nut, carefully.
I'm in favor of JB weld or tack welding the ER races onto the arm after beadblasting/cleaning/painting.
after you finish, drive around with the underside cover plate off for a while, make sure everything is right, noises/binding, that cover plate sucks and you don't want to rmove and put back on more than three times in a week. A com-a-long ratchet binder comes in handy for putting that ****** thing back on.
PM any q's if you want

[Kroggers]

Good advice there Jerry. The reason why I am building the list now is that a friend is going to the US to work for two weeks soon, and I can have all the parts delivered to him over there from Pelican. That way I can get all the parts at a good price, and not pay the shipping cost as he will just bring it back with him And if i am really lucky and he is not stopped, then I could also manage to avoid the import tax So, as you can see, getting the main parts ordered now is an advantage to me, but I do not want to just order everything in the book for the fun of it - That would just cost way to much

[livi]

Pål,

You have a PM.

[Kroggers]

Markus, so do you