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Question Oil Change Before Storage Q

In a month or so I'll be putting the car away until spring. One of the things I do is the oil change before storage and immediately after it comes out of hibernation.

My question is this: Should I change the oil filter both times? This seems a waste as a brand new filter sits on the car during storage and is discarded in spring with virtually no miles on it.

Or should I care?

Thanks in advance,

Old 10-15-2005, 11:00 AM
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For that matter, I've never understood why an oil change should be done both before and after. Wouldn't you be wasting brand new oil with no miles on it?

BTW, in hibernation no one can hear your car scream.
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Old 10-15-2005, 11:29 AM
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I prefer to just change oil and filter once - when I start out in early spring. That way its fresh when I start spanking the engine.

However, I know there are plenty of guys here prefer to change it before hibernation and I can appreciate there motives for that - but in the end really don´t think it matters what strategy you have. As long as its changed yearly.

Just listen to me guys - I am starting to sound like a veteran..
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Old 10-15-2005, 11:35 AM
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There is really no reason to change oil when coming out of a few months of storage.

The reason to change both oil and filter on the way in is to get all of the condensation, acid and other contaminants out so that they will not eat away at the static innards.
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Old 10-15-2005, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bill Verburg
There is really no reason to change oil when coming out of a few months of storage.

The reason to change both oil and filter on the way in is to get all of the condensation, acid and other contaminants out so that they will not eat away at the static innards.
I was thinking the same but doesn't the oil absorb moisture and loosen sediment already there while the oil sits for a long time?

I will be storing for 5-6 months and the temperaure in my garage flucuates around freezing and is typically damp.

Would this make any difference?
Old 10-15-2005, 05:14 PM
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The PH of motor oil drops (becomes slightly acidic) as it gets more miles on it due to the sulfur on the fuel. No where near as bad as it used to be.
Changing the oil before you put it away is a good idea, as long as you run it and circulate it. no reason at all to change it or the filter again in spring, just warm it up easy and burn off any moisture that has condensed.
Old 10-15-2005, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by sammyg2
no reason at all to change it or the filter again in spring, just warm it up easy and burn off any moisture that has condensed.
Sounds good. No I can save myself a few bucks, some time, and get out there and drive that much quicker!
Old 10-15-2005, 06:16 PM
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How about this, dump the oil now and leave it empty. Re-fill in the spring.
Old 10-16-2005, 08:42 AM
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No, no, no. Do not leave it empty. There are parts in the engine that will rust without oil. Consider cranking the engine every two weeks without ignition on. (Remove the 6-pin CDI plug on the module (Not the coil cable) and the fuelpump relay) Crank a few revs until the oil light on the dash goes out.
As for an unheated garage, use several old comforters over the car with a 150 Watt flood light on a secure stand on the floor inside to take out the moisture.

WINTER STORAGE IN UNHEATED GARAGE

Here is what I do:

One last long run with injection cleaner in the tank, use up full tank.
Change oil and filter.
Fill tank (Add Stabil)
Wash car top and bottom (Including the wheel wells)
Dry car thoroughly, drive a few miles to dry out brakes and bottom
Leave oil cap off during engine cooling to expel hot air
Spread poly sheet on bare concrete, park on poly
Place an open box of baking soda in the car to keep it fresh smelling
Treat leather seats with conditioner
Trickle charger on the battery, or remove battery
Transmission in neutral and emergency brake off
Extra 5 lbs. pressure in tires, roll the car a little every week to avoid flat spots and prevent the brake pads to make a rust spot on the rotors
Put a little Vaseline on the Fuchs wheels
Polish chrome on sunroof assembly
Close heater valves (Rodents!)
Set up mouse traps or bait
Do not use a tarp or poly over the car; it traps moisture!
Put 3-4 old comforters over the car with a 150W light bulb inside secure on a little stand and a 60W light bulb resting in a metal hub cap inside the trunk close to the fuse panel (Fuse box lid removed) It prevents oxidation.
The two bulbs keep things dry at about 50 deg Fahrenheit (10 deg Celsius)
I do not start the engine during winter but crank it every two weeks with the CDI, and fuel pump, disconnected to circulate the oil
An old radio plays Rock-One-0-One 911-music while the snow flies.
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Last edited by Gunter; 10-16-2005 at 09:04 AM..
Old 10-16-2005, 09:01 AM
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Jesus !!!
Way too much time on your hands.
Just drive it occasionally. Even the arctic circle gets a pretty day now and again
Old 10-16-2005, 09:09 AM
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Hay Markus - 911 Posts, way to go
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Old 10-16-2005, 09:19 AM
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No driving here with all that salt on the roads; it's just not fun.
However, anyone who wants to run in the winter: go for it!
I don't mind spending some time for storage preparation so the 911 won't rot away on me.
I get a lot of driving in the spring, summer, fall to feed the addiction.
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:00 AM
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You bet, Pål !!!

Sooo, whats your oil change strategy ? Once in a blue moon ??
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by KatoKato
I was thinking the same but doesn't the oil absorb moisture and loosen sediment already there while the oil sits for a long time?
Not if you have been changing your oil regularly. The new oil will have a fresh additive package to deal w/ any contaminated left over oil. The contamination comes form operating the engine where fuel and blowby past the rings taints the oil. The other source of contamination is the internal condensation that occcurs when a hot engine is shut off. Don't start the engine and neither source of trouble comes into play.

Quote:
Originally posted by KatoKato

I will be storing for 5-6 months and the temperaure in my garage flucuates around freezing and is typically damp.

Would this make any difference?
Not really, the small amount of internal condensation can be dealt w/ by the fresh additive package in new oil.
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:29 AM
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Bill´s spoken.

And as opposed to me, going with instinct, he knows what he is talking about.

I am changing strategy - the old girl will get her oil change before winter hits us. Think I will try changing from 0w40 to 10w40 as well.
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:38 AM
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I changed my oil before I did the big drive from London to Stockholm, and then again when I got here (4 weeks back). I am thinking the oil is still fresh and can stay until next summer, and will be changed when the snow is gone!! After that I will decide next year

I am actually considering storing my car in the UK during the winters after this anyway
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Old 10-16-2005, 10:44 AM
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Good idea, Pål.

I hear they have a real dry and preserving climate their...
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Old 10-16-2005, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gunter
.....As for an unheated garage, use several old comforters over the car with a 150 Watt flood light on a secure stand on the floor inside to take out the moisture.

WINTER STORAGE IN UNHEATED GARAGE
...

Thanks for the comprehensive list. I've been through this before on the board and I may make some additions.

Cheers,
Old 10-16-2005, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bill Verburg
....The new oil will have a fresh additive package to deal w/ any contaminated left over oil...
the small amount of internal condensation can be dealt w/ by the fresh additive package in new oil.
Thanks for the assurance!
Old 10-16-2005, 01:14 PM
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Wow Gunter!!! I think you had me until the light bulb thingy!!! More power to you but that is nuts! Oh by the way I change my oil and filter right before I put her away for the winter....removes the dirty oil that would sit in the crankcase all winter and she is ready to go the first day of the Spring driving season!!! 15-50 MOBIL 1

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Old 10-16-2005, 03:55 PM
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