Stuck spark plug

[htbetz]

After adjusting my valves (easy but time consuming) I thought I'd remove all plugs to check their condition. All come out easy except #1 that loosened but as I turned about 1 turn it got harder and more resistance. I stopped, tightened it and left it alone. The engine was stone cold. Any suggestions, I don't want to strip the head.

Thanks
Harry

[ruf-porsche]

Did you use anti seize compound the last time the spark plugs were out?

[Rot 911]

You are between the proverbial rock and a hard place. Might just be some corrosion on the threads, could be the threads stripping out. Question is, do you want to find out now or later? If it was me, I would find out now, so if the threads strip you have all winter to fix it. I would pull the valve cover off so you have more room to work with. Then spray a bit of WD40, if you can, onto the base of the sparkplug and hope some of it works down into the threads. Then slowly loosen the plug up to where you hit the tight spot. Then tighten it back up. Do this a few times and maybe the WD40 will help lubricate things. Then, holding your breath, bow three times towards the Porsche Gods in Stuttgart, remove the sparkplug. Good luck.

[sammyg2]

WD40 would not be my first choice. Try Kroil or BP blaster or even liquid wrench, much higher probability of success.

Because it turned and then got tighter, that means the metal galled. The friction between the steel plug body and the aluminum head was enough to rip the aluminum away and now some of the aluminum is fused to the steel plug. Not good.
Lubricate it the best you can, and then carefully work the plug back and forth. Not once, not twice, more like 100 times. That will be your best chance at getting it out without completely destroying the threads in the head.
If you force it you will be taking the engine apart.

[Breeang]

I agree with Kurt V in his method,but personally I would use 'PB Blaster',that stuff is like WD 40 on steroids and is especially formulated for working it's way down into seized areas.Spray the plug up, let it sit for a while,then work it back and forth also give it a rap every now and then with a small hammer and a brass drift (on the base of the plug, not the top or the ceramic insulator).Repeat

[coloradoporsche]

Same thing happened to me. Your park plug is galled:



I wrenched mine out using brute force, and then chased the threads using another spark plug. But I'm sure the hole needs some attention now, (which it will get when I drop the engine this winter).

I believe a good shop can help you chase the threads in the hole if you can't get it done to your satisfaction.

[Rot 911]

Guys, I agree that PB Blaster is superior in penetrating ability. However, I was not sure if it conducted electricty. WD40 does not. Of course getting the sparkplug out is more important at this stage, but I didn't want him to replace the plug and have some electrical problem due to using PB Blaster.

[Wil Ferch]

Only three kinds of penetrating lubricants are worthy....

Kroil, PB Blaster, Wurth Rost-off.....

Forget about WD-40 ...use it as intended ..."Water-displacement " ( WD)

- Wil

[HFR_Racer]

Does everyone recommend anti-sieze on spark plugs prior to installation? I've heard the opposite for aluminum heads.

All opinions welcome..

Sorry to hijack this thread but it seems on point.

[HawgRyder]

You can also get jammed plugs when they extend too far into the chamber.
I had one that the washer (sealing ring) fell off, and it went in too far.
When removing it later, I found the same problem as htbetz.
Thge last thread had carboned up to prevent the plug from coming out easily.
I worked the plug in and out many times until the cabon flaked off and the plug would come out.
Now I check each plug very carefully.
Bob

[HFR_Racer]

Does everyone recommend anti-sieze on spark plugs prior to installation? I've heard the opposite for aluminum heads.

All opinions welcome..

Sorry to hijack this thread but it seems on point.

[Gunter]

Porsche does not recommend any lube on the plug-threads because of ignition concerns meaning: They feel that the lube will interfere with conducting those lovely little electrons into the engine case. (Ground)
I have consistently ignored this recommendation and for many years, on all my polluters, use anti-seize (Neverseize) on the plug-threads.
No problem with the spark; I rather have a few electrons go astray than face the horror of a seized plug.
I mean, come on, Alu threads vs steel threads, who is going to win?

[Rick V]

for anti-seize I use Nissan pbc grease. It is very expensive ($60 for 8oz) but more than worth the money. The great thing about this stuff is that it contains lead in liquid form. A great lube, some of you guys in Ca. and like places may not be able to get it but a better anti-seize you won't find. I keep mine hidden in my toolbox so Mr. epa doesn't bust me.

[Jim Sims]

If it loosened a turn and then you could retighten it,then it may not be galled but instead merely jamming on carbon buildup on the threads exposed in the head to the combustion volume. Two possible solutions: (1) put the car back together and give it a good "Italian tune-up" (drive it hard and get the engine hot) and try and burn the carbon off the plug nose - then try and remove the plug or (2) carefully try & work the plug out by breaking off the carbon gradually using a penetrating oil sprayed into the joint from the outside and a slow, patient repeated loosen/tighten procedure with a minimum of torque.

[Boxer 6]

I agree completely with Gunter as this happened to me on my Toyota. A little "dab" of anti-seize on the threads will certainly do minimal harm as compared with a plug gauling. Besides, once the plugs washer is seated on the head, it should be grounded provided you didn't glop too much anti-seize on.

[pwd72s]

Originally posted by Jim Sims
If it loosened a turn and then you could retighten it,then it may not be galled but instead merely jamming on carbon buildup on the threads exposed in the head to the combustion volume. Two possible solutions: (1) put the car back together and give it a good "Italian tune-up" (drive it hard and get the engine hot) and try nd burn the carbon off the plug nose - then try and remove the plug or (2) carefully try &work the plug out by breaking off the carbon gradually using a penetrating oil sprayed into the joint from the outside and a slow, patient repeated loosen/tighten procedure with a minimum of torque.

Jim's point bears repeating, IMHO. Maybe add some carbon eating fuel additive to the tank while performing the "Italian tune-up". Jim? I once heard that the factory arguement against the use of a lube on plug threads was based on a worry about the lube forming carbon due to the heat...your thoughts? Maybe lubes are better now, but "never seeze" has been around for a long time...

[sammyg2]

I use milk of magnesia. Just a very small drop per plug will be plenty. It works as good as the high priced stuff but it's cheeeep
A $4 bottle will last 20 years in the average garage.

[htbetz]

It seems Jim Sims diagnosis was correct. There was a little bit of carbon on the end of the plug. After an "Italian tune up" the plug came out without much problem. I'm gonna use some sort of anti seize - don't want to have this scare again.
Thanks Jim!

[TerryH]

Outstanding news! It's amazing how simple some things can become when wise men respond to what seems like a major "oh $hit" moment.

I've put a single drop of motor oil on every plug I've installed for the last 35 years. Granted, most of those were iron heads, but old habits are hard to break.

I think the real key is not to over torque them.

[pwd72s]

Originally posted by htbetz
It seems Jim Sims diagnosis was correct. There was a little bit of carbon on the end of the plug. After an "Italian tune up" the plug came out without much problem. I'm gonna use some sort of anti seize - don't want to have this scare again.
Thanks Jim!

Or maybe NOT use anti-seize...read Jim's post carefully. Then mine. Anti-seize in the combustion chamber can possibly create carbon of it's own. Glad to hear you got her out. Kind of wish Grady would weigh in on this one...One good rule of thumb to prevent stripping (galling) with plugs is to torque correctly when dealing with aluminum heads. Ft. pounds are difficult to read in P-car plug changes. But one good method is with new plugs, gasket not compressed, tighten another 1/2 turn after "snug". With old plugs, gasket compressed, 1/4 turn....