Noise Diagnosis

Superman · 10-19-2005, 11:44 AM

I'm just testing what I think I know in terms of conventional automotive wisdom. It's a little OT, but my Ford Ranger has a ticking noise and I think it's an exhaust leak.

The noise is most prevalent at startup. It does not change when oil pressure comes up. It's a ticking noise, like a valve but.......

It gets much softer once the engine is heated up and it is most pronouced when the throttle is open. When cold, it ticks pretty much all the time. When the engine is warmed up, it stops ticking when I lift my foot off the accelerator. When I give it extra gas, it gets louder.

Sounds like an exhaust leak.....right?

Al S · 10-19-2005, 11:51 AM

Exhaust leak has my vote. I had the same symptoms on my Nissan Quest, turned out to be a broken exhaust manifold stud.....

creaturecat · 10-19-2005, 12:10 PM

easy way to hear an exhaust leak- get someone to hold a damp cloth over the outlet while you listen.

Superman · 10-19-2005, 12:10 PM

Valve ticking wouldn't behave this way, would it?

na2ub · 10-19-2005, 12:42 PM

Sounds like my pathfinder. Mine has a suspected broken exhaust manifold bolt. When the engine gets warm, is is quieter, and the parts heat up and close the gap. Last I heard, I may have to drill out the broken one(s) and maybe install two gaskets since the manifold itself has probably warped from the heat (and not being bolted properly).

Doug

Superman · 10-19-2005, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by na2ub
Sounds like my pathfinder. Mine has a suspected broken exhaust manifold bolt. When the engine gets warm, is is quieter, and the parts heat up and close the gap. Last I heard, I may have to drill out the broken one(s) and maybe install two gaskets since the manifold itself has probably warped from the heat (and not being bolted properly).

Doug

I had a Pathfinder and this is exactly what happened. I never did find out whether they redesigned the studs, but I got new ones. Don't have the vehicle any more. You really should take the manifolds to a machine shop and have the mating surface ground. They're probably not straight now.

And if there is a broken stud, well, be patient drilling it out. You'll need a right-angle drill, or attachment. I used the Harbor Freight attachment. Go really slow. Use a reverse drill bit, and the stud may just back out while you're trying to drill it. If not, then get the Snap-On screw extractor set. It's actually cheap, and it's the best set of extractors I have used, by far.