Have I Scored a Crap 915?
 

Hi Guys

I've just finished installing a 915 with an unknown history (pulled from a wreck, so I can assume it was working up to that point!)

As this is a conversion from a sportomatic, I've installed a new clutch cable, but used the original clutch which appears fine... throw-out bearing and pilot bearing appeared fine also.

With the engine rocking there is a bit of a knocking sound coming from the box. The clutch is very heavy (hey I've been used to no clutch!) and worst of all I can' select any gear. I've followed 101 for the cable adjustment, but am having no luck

Where am I going wrong?

can you select a gear with the engine off?

Hi Glenn. Yep. Definitely a lot of my problem is a mis-aligned shift coupler I'm battling with, but I appear to be able to select all gears.

I've just come out from under again and have discovered that the transmission mounts are rooted... Like nearly an inch travel when I put a jack under them. Could this be an issue?

John- sorry to hear your probs. I had to laugh though- that's the first time in a long time I've heard the phrase Rooted!
US members of Pelican may interpret that as 'well grounded; attatched firmly' as opposed to Fu*ked .

Lol. Welcome to the 915 and all the best!

Hey thanks Matt! It's an ex kiwi box, so it's probably been lubricated with lanolin all it's life ;)

If you can select the gears without the engine running, but can't select with the engine running, then I would guess that you have a clutch problem.

Put the car in gear, push in the clutch, and try to start the car (carefully). If the car lurches forward then it's your clutch...

-Wayne

Okay, did as you said Wayne :) Car lurches forward... it's my clutch... but what do I do... it's clearly not releasing?

Thanks

Is it possible to mate the engine and box with throw-out fork the wrong way or something like that?

Are you sure the fork engaged correctly with the t/o bearing?

Does the 915 you have have the omega shaped helper spring or is the older style with just the lever?

If just the lever, with the transmission mated to the engine the lever should be pointing stright out to the side of the car or just slightly forward of that.

Hey John, sorry, I was sleeping by the time you reposted. But, Wayne really covered what I was thinking. The clutch is the problem, then. (where exactly I have no clue)

Hopefully John Walker will chime in. . . he seems to always know the common forehead-slapping gotcha's. ;)

I once installed an engine and tranny where I assumed that the forks push on the release bearing. Not so. The forks PULL the release bearing. They engage the bearing on its outer ridge.

Alright, I'm beginning to think I've done something fundamentally wrong when I mated the gearbox.

Mating a sporto was a breeze! I take it I was meant to have the forks orientated in a specific manner? Supe, I think you may have nailed it.

Oh well, I'm getting good at this whole one-man engine drop :rolleyes:

Cheers

Welcome to the 915. I just finished experiencing your problem. I read the tech article, the book, and totally f*&(*&d mating the tranny to the engine.

You have all the symptoms that I had. drop the engine again and reinstall making sure the fork sets between the throwout bearing rings. Sorry.

Again, just like you, I thought I scored a crap unknown tranny. But thank God it was not so. Good luck.

Now, maybe someone should update the tech article........hmmmm!

Hey thanks Cab,

The whole pulling, not pushing thing makes me think that's exactly the problem... I definitely did not make sure the fork was positioned between the T/O bearing "rings/ridges/flanges". This issue is definitely not referenced in any of my books (both of Wayne's, Haynes and Anderson).

I'll attack it again this weekend.

Hah, hah, hah! Just like you, I am now an expert dropping the engine/tranny. BTW, some people 'could' reposition the fork using the 'partial' drop method. To me, it was impossible.

Look at the bottom of page 32 - it's referenced there (in 101 Projects). Most people read this when they are dropping the engine, and then forget about it on the reinstall.

-Wayne

It can be done with a partial drop, just like if you were pulling the engine independently. Undo the necessary wiring, fuel lines, shift coupler, clutch cable etc. Remove bolts at rear engine mount. Lower motor until you will be able to move towards the rear by 4-5". Place a smaller jack under the transmission to hold in the same plane as the motor. Remove the bolts / nuts securing the motor to the bellhousing. Slide the motor rearward CAREFULLY, you only need to move it a few inches. Peek through inspection window until you can position fork to where it will engage with the t/o bearing as you slide the motor back.

If everything was stable enough you should be able to slide the motor back into position. The biggest pain with r/r'ing the motor separately is aligning the input shaft with the pilot bearing on reaseembly.

If everything is together and you only partially disassemble to get the clearance you need, you should be okay. I've pulled my motor twice now, leaving the transmission in place, it can be done you just need to be more aware of the angles as the motor and tranny relate to one another.

Wayne, I stand corrected :)

Thanks for the instruction Dean! I was about to pull both the engine and tranny tomorrow... I'll give the partial drop a go.

Cheers

Fishcop,
Id bet money on the cluch arm too (Very heavy clutch and all). Salazar_S2K did the exact same thing (after I TOLD him to look out for it). So, a weeks worth of bustin' my chops helping him to get his new 3.6 in, and we cant drive it at an autox on Sat morn because the clutch wouldn't release. I obviouslly still give him a hard time about it - thats what friends are for;)

SMD