Scotch Brite on polished fuchs results...
 

I blew my P budget on the engine transplant (rebuilt 2.7, SSIs, rebuilt carbs, external oil cooler) but wanted to "refinish" my already polished deep 6s. This required an inexpenisve route as opposed to Al or Harvey. With the advice from Chris, user id cnielson, and $7.48 in Scotch Brite pads I managed to achieve very pleasing results.
Although difficult to capture in a photograph the finish has the appearance of a raw media blasted and anodized fuch and in some lights - the frosted RSR finsh. It is very similar to a brushed satin look which retains the reflective characteristic of metal vs the flatness of paint.
Though the finish is now more pourous I think it will require about the same maintenance as a polished fuch. I only polished my wheels twice in the 3 years that I had them done. So I think these wheels will only require rescuffing once a year and the same foam glass cleaner after each wash.
So for $7.48 ($1.87 x 4 per packet), the car got a new look and I am completely satisfied.

AFTER:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130646013.jpg
BEFORE:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130646046.jpg
SCOTCH BRITE:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130646105.jpg
SCOTCH BRITE:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130646174.jpg

Bob, what an excellent result at a sub-fraction of the cost of media blasting. I have been contemplating doing the same to my deep six polished. What technique did you used with the pads to achieve a uniform surface?

Thanks, Rick

Bob, which scotchbright pads did you use, Red?

Looks like we need all the details - A to Zoo.

Rick - I used 2 grades of Scotch Brite, fine for the first pass to erode the polish and then very fine to finish.
I masked off the black areas with electrical tape as not to scuff the paint. It took me 1.5 hrs per wheel in total. It could take less time but for that uniformed finish you really need to scuff the polish down so there is no evidence of it. Otherwise it will of course look patchy.

Kmatts - sorry you slipped in while I was replying. I keep saying Scotch Brite so that people will understand but the item is actually NORTON Steel Wool (2 pads 4 3/8 x 5 1/2) from Home Depot. It's not the bunched up steel wool but the synthetic pads that don't break up.

Bob,

What a wonderful job you did! The results are "Fantasic"!

Jason

Bob, circular swirls, or one direction, then the next cross hatch? How much pressure?

thanks very much Bob, makes perfect sense to me now.
I was actually removing some chipped wurth paint from my window trim with steel wool...and thought to myself "u know this looks pretty damn good, i wonder if i could get the wheels to match?". thanks for giving me an answer!

I doan know, Bob...............

Those before pics showed some very pretty wheels. But, your car is fabulous however you go about things. :)

Whatcha gonna do with the caps?

Very nice - I hope you'll repost in a year or two with updates...

This was the process and order of operation. I went in this particular order to avoid scratching the previous section - no cross hatching. Hope it explains everything:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130649307.jpg

Milt - I just bought something else today which is a signature Emory trademark. It will be going on the car soon.

Thanks Bob - please ignore the same question on the Early911S Reg. I am impressed by your ingenuity. Off to the ScotchBrite store.

My bad Rick - I directed you back over here. I sometimes get confused with the different user ids.

No problem, I have different user IDs to confuse 'the voices' ;) (would have liked to have the same, but the one I wanted was already in use on Pelican). I maintain the same avatars and tag lines (It keeps the voices in synch). :D

That really does look fantatstic. Like RSbob I am really impressed with the uniformity of the finish.

Two more questions. Did you do this wet or dry? With wheels on?

My wheels were in need of some polish anyway so I am off to Home Depot today.

Thanks,

Don

Suggestion- If you want the same look. You can go to the autobody paint store and ask for GREY scotchbrite pads.... not steel wool. The scotch brite pads are used to scuff auto paint prior to painting, and have a very uniform consistancy. I did this to my stainless MB911 muffler, and it has the brushed look... same as above. Definately tape off the black edges, you can use 3M blue or green painters tape. The scotch brite pads work very quickly.
I would cover them with vaseline afterwards, and wipe off the excess to provide a protctive coating as well.

The process is done dry with the tires on.
Ken - good tip with the vaseline.
I hope you guys understand that the final finish is a brushed look due to the "grain" of the scotch brite. I would think that if you didn't the grain then you would paint them. There is a great topic titled "Economical RSR Finish" with some great contributions. Consider it back up plan if you don't like the fine brushed finish- heck the wheels will already be scuffed for paint ;).

I always liked this wheel from the Prototype R. It's probably media blasted with a clear coat for the ultimate uniformed finish.

Photo courtesy of Nick Moss:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1130687750.jpg