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-   -   Stupid noobie question. Attempt #3 (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/248650-stupid-noobie-question-attempt-3-a.html)

911Notch 10-30-2005 09:42 AM

Stupid noobie question. Attempt #3
 
Sorry for the triple posts guys,

Just to let you in on what I am up to, I am installing a 68 2.0l into a 65 VW Notchback. I have trimmed up the right inner fender to house the oil tank, but the oil tank I have didn't come with the filler neck, cap or dipstick. Now here's the stupid question...

Where is the dipstick located on this oil tank??

http://www3.telus.net/public/mattjen/oil%20tank.jpg

Thanks for you patience for a virgin porsche enthusiast!

Matt

carmad 10-30-2005 09:51 AM

Dipstick is located in the filler neck of tank.

Eric Coffey 10-30-2005 09:53 AM

Re: Stupid noobie question. Attempt #3
 
Quote:

Originally posted by 911Notch
...Where is the dipstick located on this oil tank??

It goes down the filler neck that you don't have. :D :p

SmileWavy

911Notch 10-30-2005 09:53 AM

Is it part of the cap? or a seperate piece altogether?

Anybody have a filler neck, cap, and dipstick they wanna sell me??

Eric Coffey 10-30-2005 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 911Notch
Is it part of the cap? or a seperate piece altogether?

It's a separate piece. It slides down the filler neck, which has a dedicated recessed receptacle built in. ;)

911Notch 10-30-2005 10:17 AM

Thanks for all the help guys!

Can anybody tell me the length of the dipstick? and where abouts the markings are? I want to use this as a filler cap,

http://www3.telus.net/public/mattjen/oiltank2.jpg

It's the factory VW type 3 oil filler head and cap, and perhaps I'll adapt a dipstick to the cap just like a type 3 has.

ianc 10-30-2005 06:30 PM

Matt, this looks like an incredibly cool project! I've always loved the look of the VW Type III's. A buddy of mine had a '66 with the dual carbs and it was a very neat car. I would love to hear more about your plans for the car and see some pics of it as you progress. Thanks and hope to hear more!

ianc

911Notch 10-30-2005 06:39 PM

Thanks Ian, I just started a thread here, and will post more as the progress continues.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-engine-conversion-tech-forum/248736-65-type-3-w-2-0l-5spd.html

Matt

Grady Clay 10-30-2005 07:01 PM

Matt,

Welcome to the Forum. We’ll have you in a 911 in no time.

Does the oil tank have an oil level sender? The range of the float is from full to down two quarts. I think you can see the float with the neck off. The 911 neck has a breather attachment that I don’t see on your Type 3 cap assembly. You absolutely must have a breather from the tank to atmosphere.

Do some Pelican searching on checking the oil.

Show some more images of the engine. Perhaps we can anticipate some problems for you. It would be nice to start and drive.

Was the engine running? How long has it sat? Under what conditions? What do you know about its history? Have you looked in the sump plate & screen? If you haven’t, stop and ask and I’ll tell you where and what to look for. Starting and running an engine that has been sitting is far more difficult than braking in a new engine. You need to be very careful.

I see some tin missing. What is the plan?

Cool project. We had a Porsche 547 in a split window flat-bed transporter once and a ’66 Empi 2.5 911 in a VSWB Myers Manx. Who says we all don’t do silly things.


Best,
Grady

Zeke 10-30-2005 07:34 PM

There are different lengths of dipsticks for Porsche oil tanks. You need to know if that oil tank is from the same car as the engine. Then, you or we can look it up right here on Pelican.

There is also a thread on dip sticks in the archives somewhere. When you get this info, you can probably make a correct DS with a file mark for the levels. It can't interfere with the oil level sending arm in the tank, the one Grady referred to.

911Notch 10-31-2005 06:49 AM

wow
 
I can tell already that I will find a wealth of knowledge here! Thanks for all your help already.

As for the motor, it was a running driving power train in a car that was sold to one of the local movie companies. They aparantly took the drive train out and blew the car upfor the movie. I bought it from a very reputable person up here that knows the owner that sold it to the movie company, I have no reason to think it will not run. It came with a bunch of tin, that isn't installed yet, because I am just mocking up the motor. You can pretty much guarantee I will be back asking"where does this piece go?". Here's a shot of the engine in mocked in place,

http://www3.telus.net/public/mattjen/911notch3.jpg

and the oil tank mocked in place as well, is the round disc to the front of the tank the level sender you guys speak of?


http://www3.telus.net/public/mattjen/oiltank1.jpg



Where does the breather tube from the filler neck go? I have located the necessary parts I need for the tank, but if I us the VW filler neck I will need to make an adapter tube to the oil tank, so I can put a breather tube on that if necessary.

Matt

Grady Clay 10-31-2005 08:22 AM

Matt,

You didn’t say what kind of ’68 2.0 you have. Looks like a ‘68T. Please post the engine number and type number (green arrows) so we can give accurate advice.

Does a notchback have an engine mount on the pulley end of the engine? What is this (red arrow)? That looks like it interferes with the fan. When you fabricate a mount, include a rubber mount and clearance to change the fan belt.

You are going to need to get considerably more air to the engine. Have you thought of how? At some point you will want a metal firewall for safety. It is also objectionable when you park it hot and come back to find the car full of fuel vapor and hot engine smells (aah, the aroma of oil on the heat exchangers in the morning.) Make it easily removable so you can impress your friends and hear that sweet song at 6000. You are going to need to seal the engine tin to the car so no hot air reversion occurs. In the short term you could simply space the engine lid up and back a few cm temporarily.


There a bunch of little things that will make life much easier. In ’71 Porsche installed some phenolic insulating spacers between the heads and intake manifolds (blue arrow). They are available from out host. I recommend you install two on each intake. This goes a long way to reducing the fuel boiling in the carburetors when shut off hot. You’ll need longer studs in the heads.

For safety you should replace these (yellow arrow) old fuel lines with new.

One of the reasons I want you to look in the sump is to see if there are any signs of chain ramps. There are six hard rubber ramps in the engine. If a piece brakes off, the engine usually is effectively destroyed. I recommend you replace all six (5 of one flavor and one of another) and the two chain cover gaskets. These newer plastic ramps are available from our host and are cheep insurance.

What was the original fuel system in the Notchback? Dead-end to carburetors? You will need an electric fuel pump. It is best to mount it low and in the front. Make sure all the rubber fuel lines are new and have the appropriate Norma-Schellen hose clamps.

You might find the opportunity to clean and paint (VHT 1500F gray) the heat exchangers. Are you able to fit the stock 911 muffler?

It may be your oil tank doesn’t have a level sender. Is there electrical connections on the cover plate or is it blank? It looks as if it has the sender.

The breather at the oil filler neck usually goes to the 911 air filter assembly. It might be wise to route it to an easy-to-drain 1 gal. catch tank then to a filter in the engine compartment. The hose needs to be the same size as the one from the engine breather to the sump tank.

Where are you going to put the ignition components and the voltage regulator? It would be best to continue using the original 911 engine wiring without modification. You will need to have the alternator light working to warn of a broken fan belt and the oil pressure and temperature senders connected to a gauge.

When you have the engine and trans out, please post some pictures of the underside including the rear suspension.

You can ask the moderator to combine this thread with the one you linked above.
If I miss some posted question, feel free to e-mail me the link.

Best,
Grady
gradyclay@hotmail.com

Bill Verburg 11-06-2005 07:09 AM

See this thread for additional information

darkbeer 11-06-2005 08:54 AM

hey Notchback Matt.....
this project is so unorthodox as to be great!!! it will be a bit butt happy with the extra weight....the look of shock on the faces of type I notch owners.....PRICELESS !!!!

notch11 11-08-2005 10:12 AM

911 notch
 
Hey for some reason this all seems very familiar........keep us posted looks sweet!!
http://www.franklinsvwwerks.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=3200

911Notch 11-08-2005 03:59 PM

And I thought I was on my own.....

Looks like a 915 is a tad bit longer than a 901, have you finished any of the mounts for the motor? I'd sure like to see them to get some ideas, what are you doing for the oil tank location? I'm going to be at the Franklins swap this weekend, would like to meet ya and BS 911 conversions!!

notch11 11-08-2005 09:48 PM

sounds cool i'll probably be a franks on sat.

Joeaksa 11-09-2005 03:26 AM

This looks like fun. Cannot wait to see this one fired up. Are you thinking of putting larger tires on the rear to handle the extra power and assume that stiffer torsion bars will be used?

JoeA


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