Model of my RSR reinforcements
 

1" wide, 9" long, and 1/8th thick strap.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131065095.jpg

Diagonal piece custom cut, 1/8th thick.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131065197.jpg


From the back side, standing where the rear seats would be, looking through where the firewall should be.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131065228.jpg

Triangulating the lower forward meeting point of the shock tower and longitudinal.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131065317.jpg

A group shot for perspective:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131065404.jpg

Here are the templates laid out to give you an idea of scale:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131065538.jpg


Sorry about the poor shots.

In addition, I seam weld the perimter of the shok tower to chassis longitudinal wherever the factory skipped, or merely spot-welded.

If it's for coil-overs, I'll add in a few extras, like a vertical strap transversely between the shock towers, and additional triangles in the typical spots at each end in along with the diagonals in the pic.

Note: The templates are a guide, and the actual metal pieces end up being slightly larger than the template, allowing me to custom fit the piece to the car. This is why the fit seems poor on the diagonal piece.

Interesting! -- is this what P AG did? Or something in addition?

Think this would be something one could feel & appreciate on a street car?

I'll say it first. Thank you for all the help and insight you give to the "lesser evil" ones like me out there. Much appreciated.

JP

PAG never did the diagonal. That piece they did transversely for maximum rigidity for the shock tower. I made mine for maximum torsional rigidity on a non coil-over car.

The factory style transverse piece can be added on in addition to what I showed above, and it's exactly what I do on coil-over cars.

For maximum effectiveness, it would be ideal to make the mounting feet for the rollbar/rollcage meet right up against the firewall where my reinforcements also meet the firewall. This ties it all together for a very stiff chassis. That's what I did on Scruffy, resulting in coupe-like stiffness in a cabriolet.

To answer your question, I think yes, you would notice a difference on a street car if it's got upgraded suspension.

I see the torsion tube cut out. IF running coilovers is it a good or bad idea to cut it out when adding the additional peices?

Thanks

Hey Tyson,

Thanks for that nice post. Great info. I have a suggestion for you. Cereal boxes make great templates.:)

Dean

This chassis is a lost cause. I only used to illustrate the pieces because it's so cut up.

It was used for a T.V. shoot where they torched the car. Desperate Housewives used my C2 for a shot, and this car was it's stand-in, and got propane piped into it, turning it into a huge fireball.

Thank you! I'm happy to do it if it helps someone make their car stronger/safer/faster.

Or more evil? :eek:

Thanks Tyson! Excellent thread.

Hey Tyson,
Here is how we do it!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131075011.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131075050.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131075107.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131075167.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131075280.jpg

Nice!

Yeah, it can get pretty serious on a racecar. This stuff I posted is for street/track cars. The kind of stuff you'd do to a car while you have the engine/trans out, but want to make things stronger for track days.

That transverse strip you ran between the shock towers is exactly what I do on coil-over cars, except usually just with strap laid vertically.

Hey Man,
On the pic below. Make the gusset go strait out other than angle it. That way it will take the loading better.
I realy like the gusset at the bottom of the frame. Good Idea Man !
But I like to over do things some times. Its my Mechanical Engineering coming out in me.
It looks good thou Man! Great job dude!;)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1131077243.jpg

Ummmm, Tyson did you get to - ah - how shall I put this - help any of the Desperate Housewives relax....

(note how I artfully avoided any mention of stiffening members in the chassis...)

Thanks for sharing!

This is one of those mods thats not documented enough

it is nice to see what went into Scruffy. people freak when they feel how tight the car is.

Cool Stuff,

Thanks.

More, please. :)

properly gusseted, this kind of chassis can take quite a pounding


great post tyson. for the archives.

whose chassis? Tyson or a 911??:D :D :D

Mr. Schmidt, you should be in engineering school. It'd be a breeze for you, you'd meet a lot of smart ladies, you'd raise your income ceiling considerably and you'd get to work on exciting design projects.

One thing he will not do in engineering school is meet a lot of ladies :)

Well, I mentioned that earlier. I do exactly that, but only on coil-over cars. Since the main goal here on the torsion bar cars is increasing chassis rigidity/ torsional stiffness, the angled piece is much more effective in reducing twist, which is the most beneficial to handling.

The bottom gusset came about from seeing many cars that were heavily tracked that were splitting the seam in that area. I would seam weld them back together, than add in the gusset. (In addition to the upper pieces) Big improvement in feel. The client always comments afterweard how much tighter and creak/flex free the chassis is when it's done.

LOL! :D

:D :D :D


I just got this joke!

;)

i've got more... trade 'ya for narrowbody eeevil setup secrets :D

I could PM you some info on how to fit 245's on 944Turbo 8's in the back of a narrow body. But you have to promise not to tell anyone.

now *that* would be cool. would those fit in the front too?

(i'd tell no one and pretend that i'm naturally quick :D )

Sent you an "Evil" PM.

SSSHHhhhhhhhhhh..........................

Awesome, Tyson. Maybe something similar for the Cab reinforcements? I didn't miss that, did I?

Cheers,

These actually help a lot on a cab. (Especially if you can butt the feet of the rollbar right up against the firewall near the RSR pieces so that when welded in, they are effectively tied together through the firewall.)

But the ones I had done in the front on Scruffy at one time just aren't that feasible for most people. That's part of the reason I removed them. That, and rules.

I have seen Scruffy and know these work. thanks for the very nice detailed explanation. HMM 245 on 8s on a narrow body. My newly painted SWT could look quite evil that way...

Tyson - what are your thoughts on spot welding in between the spots where the factory welded on the eqarly cars unit body. Would that be valuable to do?

Let's say we break the candidates for this down as:
1. Street only coupes
2. Street only targas, cabs
3. Street/Race as above with cage.
4. Full race - cage assumed

I'd recommend seam welding rather than spot. But to answer your question:

1. street only coupes: yes on '71 and older, as these are the flimsiest. '72 and newer are strong enough for street duty.

2.street only Targas and cabs: yes, all years, they need all they can get.

3.street/race w/cage: yes, all years, the cage puts new stress in new areas.

4.fullrace/cage: absolutely, and gussets at every joint/weak point. Not a bad idea on #3 either.

I forgot to mention the rocker stiffeners. I gave the info to Thom Fitzpatrick, and he contacted Euro-Tek. He bought the stiffeners, and installed them on his cab, and also on a friend's car. It's all documented on his website.

I'm still quite curious about them, though, hoping for more details here at some point:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=245949&highlight=scruff y

TIA! :D

I took the car to work today. still so cool to drive a car as tight as a coupe (nearly) and then put the top down for the ride home. engine is starting to come into its out. and the RSR improvements Tyson added in the engine compartment make a BIG difference!

"I'd recommend seam welding rather than spot..."

- I thought doing the entire seam caused too much heat "migration".... ??

Thanks for all your help and advice!

all you do is "skip" around the seam rather than lay one continuous weld bead.