Rear suspension reassembly questions

[Tom '74 911]

Hi -
I'm in the process of reassembling my rear suspension after installing some new spring plate bushings and have run into some questions.

1. My main question is regarding reattaching the spring plate to the control arm. I am having some problems lining up the spring plate w/the control arm so that all the bolt holes line up. Namely, I can get them all thru except the camber adjustment bolt. I've tried using my jack from different places to help things line up, but I just can't seem to get it. Is there a specific order of reassembly one need's to follow - bolt insertion wise? Any tips on tweeking the angle of the control arm so that it lines up better?

2. My second question is regarding torque values. I have the Workshop Man. and the Tech. Spec. booklet, but I either don't understand the lingo, or there are missing values. Could someone fill in the gaps for me?

(4) Bolts for spring plate cover = ??
Radius arm to spring plate (bolt) = 68.7 ft.lbs.
Radius arm to spring plate (eccenter) = 43.4 ft.lbs.
Toe adjust. bolt = ??
Camber adjust. bolt = ??
(2) Bolts for spring plate to control arm = ??
Shockabsorb. to control arm = 90.4 ft.lbs.

Thanks for the help,
Tom

[ecm911]

Tom,

Shock attached to control arm? if so remove and the arm should move freely. If it doesn't , look at the control arm bushing may need replacing?
I used a jack under the control arm. I do not recall any order of bolt insertion.

Can not help on the torque specs.

Good luck.

earl

[Tom '74 911]

Thanks Earl. No, my shock isn't attached. I'm trying to stay away from the control arm bushings - I've already tackled more than I had planned on (isn't that always the case?!!). That last bolt is soooo close, but I just can't seen to get it lined up enough to go thru.
Tom

[ecm911]

Does the control move freely ? It should. I remember having problems holding it myself to line things up.

Are you sure the spring plate is flush.

Maybe try a jack under the spring plate to line? Be careful!

Earl


PS I assume they are the same bolts that come off the car.

[Tom '74 911]

Yes, I'm reusing the same bolts.

The control arm moves, but not freely - it takes some force to rotate it around - not possible to rotate and insert bolts at the same time. I've tried using the jack as an aid, but it doesn't line up any better when jacked. The arm needs to be rotated - more around the axle axis, not just up/down - in order to line up better.

I've tightened the spring plate cover already (4) bolts. Maybe if I loosened them back up, the spring plate could move some and help me out? I suppose I could also unbolt the CV joint so the arm could rotate more freely - but I want to avoid that if possible.

Boy, I sure hope I'm close w/ride height! I'm not looking forward to re-indexing! I'm guessing this shouldn't be so hard?
Tom

[ecm911]

Tom,

With the axle attached it will restrict the movement. Try loosing the cv joint?

I believe I had the control arm free of the axle.

Good luck.

Earl

[cbeers]

Maybe try taking the mouting bolts back out, then slip the camber bolt in and see if you can't get the mounting bolts back in after the camber bolt. I would also save the cover plate for last. I DO remember a better sequence being discovered on my second side when reassembling, but for the life of me I can't remember the trick. DAMN! I need to start writing things down, my memory is fading......


-Chris

[tobluforu]

Loosen the spring plate bolts and any other bolts that you have tightened. I first made sure all bolts were in and loose before tightening anything down. That includes the the big bolt that holds that banana arm to frame.

[Zeke]

Only thing I can offer is the four bolts to the spring plate bushing cover are tightened the same torque value as the similar ones on the front of the a-arm, or 34 ft lbs. Camber excentric= 43, and toe = 36, all according to Haynes.

[911pcars]

Temporarily remove the sway bar drop link. If it's connected, it'll oppose any effort to lift the arm into alignment with the spring plate.

In addition, use a long drift punch through the two adjacent holes. Add some leverage so the bolt slides in.

Sherwood

[Tom '74 911]

Thanks everyone. I got it - phew. The sway bar was already off as it's getting new bushings as well. I just loosened everything up and used some muscle and a rod thru adjacent holes to get things lined up better.

It's never easy is it.

Thanks,
Tom

[Evans, Marv]

Tom:
I had a similar problem when putting my rear suspension on my car. The thing that bothered me was that the bottom finger of the spring plate had a decent amount of space between it & the swing arm. The bottom of the swing arm angled in compared to the spring plate. I tightened the bolt down, drawing them together. I asked JW about it, and he said not to worry about it since the angle of the swing arm would match the spring plate when the weight of the car was put on it. So, if you get everything assembled and torqued down, you should be OK. We'll see.

[efhughes3]

Tom: A quick question as I'm getting ready to start on my rear bushings tomorrow, and it just dawned on me: Did you have to take the torsion bars out, or were you able to pull the spring plates off and leave the t-bars in?

[Tom '74 911]

MAJOR TIP - When removing or reassembling the spring plate to the control arm - LEAVE YOUR EMERGENCY BRAKE OFF. I have been fighting off and on for a few evenings, trying to reassemble my rear suspension after a bushing replacement. I couldn't, for the life of me, align all the holes from the SP to the CA. After all that time fighting it, I managed to get one side together, but couldn't get the other. For some reason, I decided to release the E-brake, which I always have on when I jack up the car. I'll be darned if there wasn't a loud clunk as the CA dropped or pivoted or whatever - ALL THE HOLES LINED RIGHT UP! Piece of cake. It really never is easy.

ED - no, you don't necessarly have to remove the T-bars. I did because I had a tough time getting them to release from the spring plates. They slid right out from the splines in the center of the torsion tube, but stayed stuck in the spring plates. Some creative tool making and hammering freed them. By that point, I had the covers off the outlet holes (as I was hammering thru them) so I just pulled them out to check out their size (they're not stock) and condition. After a quick inspection and re-greasing, I put them right back. Seems like everyone's experience varries on this task. Some T-bars slide right out, while others are scary stuck - here's hoping yours are easy.

Here's a horror story - make sure you read thru at least the second page for full effect:
stuck rear torsion bars

and here's my story:
Can't remove rear torsion bar

Let me know if you have any questions during the bushing replacement process - I just got my car back on the ground tonight - finally! so I have recent first hand knowlege! I decided on the Neatrix bushings - mostly for cost. Getting the OEM bushings off the spring plates is a MAJOR pain. There's tons of info on that here on the forum. Best of luck and feel free to ask for help - I sure did!

Tom

[efhughes3]

Thanks Tom. I've been reading the various accounts of seperating the spring plates from the t-bars. I've got my fingers crossed.

I've got new spring plates, so that aspect will be easy, but I was wondering if I needed to remove my rocker trim and torsion covers. Actually, I may have to do that just to get the spring plate off of the t-bar, even if they're not "married" together after 21 years.....

[Tom '74 911]

Ed -
I'm jealous! New spring plates - and I read in another post that you've got some ER bushings too. That's going to be great. As far as removing the TBar covers - it just depends on how it all comes apart for you. For me, I was able to get the SPlates off on one side w/out removing the TBar covers. The stubborn side was a different story.

Hope you have a great weekend and it all goes smoothly for you.

Tom

p.s. - I saw your signature - we had a dog w/(2) new knees. It makes my Porsche seem cheap!

[efhughes3]

Thanks again Tom, I'll try it with the t-bar covers and rockers in place. I've got Elephant bushings and rear monoballs to match my front ER bushes. That, and 993 calipers. A pretty good project, to say the least.

The dog goes for the knee next Wedsnesday, a TPLO procedure. Yep, that's my new hollow torsion bars and adjustable sways, as well as a few other goodies. I hope he realizes how special he is. How was the recovery on your dog?

[Tom '74 911]

Ed -
I wish I had all those ER bushings and monoballs etc... ! I'd really love to hear from you when you've got it all installed. I'd love to know if it really makes a noticable difference in the handling and feel of your car - also if it picks up more road noise and vibrations etc... keep posting!

Our dog - she had both knees done, about 2 yrs. apart. It was out patient if I remember correctly - drop off at 8am and pick up at 5pm. She was pretty miserable/out of it for a day or two - although she walked out of the vets and jumped into the back of our subaru no problem. Then it was basicly us holding her back so she could heal up. She was 3-legged for a while, but not all that long. She was a great (lucky!) pound dog - cancer made us say good-by last spring.

Keep us posted on your car's (and dog's) progress.

Tom