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Location: Mercer, PA
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Fiberglass vs. steel flares
I've pretty much decided to add SC flares to my 71'T. The question is do I add steel flares which require a lot of welding or do I add fiberglass flares which I really don't know much about other than they get epoxied on? Does anyone have input or experience with the fiberglass flares?
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11-14-2005, 02:21 AM
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No experience on the fiberglass flares, but you can also bond the steel flares on with epoxy. My steel flares were installed that way 9 years ago and they're holding up fine.
A search will probably turn up some threads on this. Mike
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Mike 1976 Euro 911 3.2 w/10.3 compression & SSIs 22/29 torsions, 22/22 adjustable sways, Carrera brakes |
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11-14-2005, 03:36 AM
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This is how I look at it. My car has fiberglass sc flares on it and they look fine. The car was repainted by the PO in 1990. There is no cracking however I see a little delaminating . I repainted it last year and decided not to take it all the way down as I thought I got all the delamination out. Once I had it finished it looked good but the delamination came back. I can't stand it in fact as soon as possible I will be stripping the quaters and removing the fiberglass flares and putting steel fenders on.. If you want something permenant then go with steel welded on on. The second best is steel with epoxy than lastly fiberglass.
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Ben 89 944,85.5 944 914-6 2.4s GT tribute. 914-6werkshop.com |
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11-14-2005, 03:42 AM
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a.k.a. G-man
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 13,614
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Go fibre if you need the weight savings (for a track car), steel is cheaper and looks just as good
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Сидеть, ложь, Переворачиваться |
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11-14-2005, 03:46 AM
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Steel cheaper? Last time i looked steel was twice the price. And twice the price on installing them too. Ive had both and I do agree overall steel does look better when looking with your nose 2 inches away from the body, but unless its a 'show quality' car, nothing wrong with fiberglass.
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Marc |
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11-14-2005, 05:32 AM
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I guess I never thought to epoxy steel flares on. It just seems like a lot of welding and potential for distortion when doing so.
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11-14-2005, 05:34 AM
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a.k.a. G-man
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 13,614
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Oops, my bad, sorry
I thought lightweight meant more expensive
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Сидеть, ложь, Переворачиваться Last edited by Geronimo '74; 11-14-2005 at 05:41 AM.. |
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11-14-2005, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
I would go with steel flares/epoxy unless this is a track car. Mike
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Mike 1976 Euro 911 3.2 w/10.3 compression & SSIs 22/29 torsions, 22/22 adjustable sways, Carrera brakes |
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11-14-2005, 05:37 AM
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Longhoods Unite!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bloomington, MN
Posts: 311
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what about this kind of flare...pop riveted on...where would i find something like this....
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1970 911T -- Neglected, oil burning problem, batman smoke 1974 914 2.0 Weber'd -- new project!! **My Wife and I bought our first house in August of 2009, the footprint of the house is just over 1100 sq. ft...my garage is just over 1000 sq. ft. We compromise well  **
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11-14-2005, 06:36 AM
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I almost hate to admit this.....I kinda like that look.
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11-14-2005, 07:38 AM
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Like the wheels but thats about it.
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1974 911s "It smelled like German heaven" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ySt9SeZl9s |
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11-14-2005, 08:01 AM
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Some people here have fab'd steel flares. That would be the cheapest way but how can you get em exact? I will probably end up buying steel turbos.
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1974 911s "It smelled like German heaven" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ySt9SeZl9s |
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11-14-2005, 08:07 AM
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Longhoods Unite!
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bloomington, MN
Posts: 311
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what is wrong with that look?? i think it looks SWEET!
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1970 911T -- Neglected, oil burning problem, batman smoke 1974 914 2.0 Weber'd -- new project!! **My Wife and I bought our first house in August of 2009, the footprint of the house is just over 1100 sq. ft...my garage is just over 1000 sq. ft. We compromise well **
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11-14-2005, 08:08 AM
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So how much lip/overlap is used to epoxy flares on? Also, what techniques are used to keep the donor tight to the substrate until cured?
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11-14-2005, 08:11 AM
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Here is the deal, if you are saving weight or plan on redoing the car at a future point again FiberGlass works well. Light and easy to install/remove at a later date. If you are going for a concours car that you want to be perfect, then steel is the way to go. I went FG on my car, but I plan to tear it back apart at a later date. It will be one of those never ending projects.
For directions on how to install just do a search here for many threads on both steel and FG.
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Kevin 2000 Boxster S 2013 Golf R 1999 911 C2 Aero |
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11-14-2005, 08:22 AM
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I agree that it comes down to weight. I'm no professional welder but I did the RS ones on my car and had no distortion. It's all a matter of heat. Spot weld with a good distance between the welds ( I used those aircraft-style holders that kept the flares in place while I did the welding) and once I had all the spots completed I just filled in the gaps. No distortion from overheating that way.
Just be sure to treat the exposed metal, both outside and inside, with a galvanizer so you won't have rust forming later. This is very important, it's the only problem I had and I had to go back over it to treat the metal properly. I learned my lesson. As far a pop-rivets, look at the 934 and the 993 RS flares, they look pretty good in my book.
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Bruce Herrmann 97 C4S '04 330i '08 Cayenne S '07 4.8 X-5 |
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11-14-2005, 09:22 AM
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1976 Porsche 911
78 Porsche 911 Turbo
1972 porsche 72 rsr clone
1995 porsche 993
1995 porsche 993
1990 porsche C2 911
1966 porsche 911
1984 Porsche 911
2003 Porsche 996
1974 Porsche 911s
1971 Porsche 911T 2.2T
1973 Porsche 911S 2.4S 
