John Walkers Stud thread....

RoyB · RoyB's Garage

I need to replace the rear wheel studs on my 87 Carrera to use 21mm Spacers I picked up on Ebay.

I figure if stock studs are 45mm and the spacer is 21mm I'll need 67mm studs to get back to the previous thread length sticking out from the wheel....Correct?

I've read every thread dating back to 2001 on the subject but I can't find a detailed description on replacing the studs without removing the hub. I know you go through the E Brake hole.

Anyone know where I can get a good "how to" on the subject?

john walker's workshop · 03:56 PM

pretty much sums it up. remove the e/brake cable, shoes and hardware first, of course. i use an air hammer to buzz the old ones out. then load the long ones through the hole. a stack of thick washers and a steel lug nut pulls them into place. use plenty of anti-seize on the threads. i use a 1/2" impact wrench on the nuts.

RoyB · RoyB's Garage

Thanks John,

So you do need to remove the drum/disc? Therefore the caliper will need to be removed. No big deal, but from reading the posts I thought there was a hole back there that the studs would come through without removing anything but the E brake cable.

DW SD · 11-06-2005, 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RoyB
Thanks John,

So you do need to remove the drum/disc? Therefore the caliper will need to be removed. No big deal, but from reading the posts I thought there was a hole back there that the studs would come through without removing anything but the E brake cable.

I followed John's advice and worked perfectly. 2 hour job, MAX Remove the Caliper and the rotor, which has the integral brake drum for the parking brake. Then disconnect the cable for the parking brake assembly. Pull the cable out from the back side. You can pass the new / old studs through the now, open port created by the removal of the brake cable.

I did remove the caliper, but did not disconnect the hydraulic line. There is a clip on the soft line (I believe) which, if you remove, allows the caliper to move around a bit. I moved the caliper enough to get the rotor off and then used the bolts to hold it in place during the rest of the process.

Doug

Geronimo '74 · 11-06-2005, 08:06 AM

What about spacers with the bolts already in them, isn't that a lot easier?
Bolt the spacers on your car, bolt wheels to spacers, finished.
That's what I would do, i guess

Wil Ferch · 11-06-2005, 08:32 AM

Now you'll have ten studs/bolts holding the wheel on....

OK for street..not OK for even mild track work...IMHO....

You also can't (easily) check the bolt torque between runs, too...on the "inner" set.

Wil

RoyB · RoyB's Garage

I don't believe anyone make a 1" spacer with studs installed. The factory studs would stick out past the adapter and the Fuch wheels won't go on. I think you would need to go 1.5" as a minimum to cover the existing studs.........Am I wrong here?

Don Plumley · Don Plumley's Garage

I have 23mm H+R Spacers with studs. Fit fine with the Fuchs.

RoyB · RoyB's Garage

Where does the extra length of the stud and the nut go. Isn't the stud sticking out of the adapter more than 23mm?

I thought there was a hollow area on the rear of the wheels, but not on mine. Unless I didn't look correctly.

Sure would be easier to use adapters.

Don Plumley · Don Plumley's Garage

Should be the hollow area in the petals.

Don Plumley · Don Plumley's Garage

Here's a pic of a backside (from the for sale section):

JonT · 11-06-2005, 03:08 PM

Don--do you track your car with those spacers?

Doug--how did you get the old studs out?

RoyB · RoyB's Garage

My car has 15" wheels and the area between the wheel holes, where these wheels have a small web, mine are totally filled in. Are mine unique or are other 15" Fuchs the same?

JonT · 11-13-2005, 12:43 PM

If I don't have an air hammer how do I get out the old studs? Rubber mallet? Hammer? I'll remove the ebrake cable and spray some penetrating spray in for now.

Nine9six · Nine9six's Garage

Double nut the stud with steel nuts. Heat the area around the stud and remove the studs. If you plan on re-using the studs at a later time, be carful as this method may stretch the thds of the stud; depending on your degree of hamfistedness. (new word)
If you are not going to use the studs again, just use heat and take a pipe wrench to em.

JonT · 11-13-2005, 03:03 PM

Nine9six--sorry I'm so dense but if I double nut the stud with steel nuts--what is the purpose of this? protect the end of the stud when I hammer it? Then heat and remove stud---but how? Hammer? Does the pipe wrench twist them out or am I pounding on nuts with it? It looks like I pound them out but want to be sure. Thx

john walker's workshop · 11-13-2005, 04:16 PM

just take a bloody big hammer and knock them out. a few solid blows on each one. no heat needed.

DW SD · 11-13-2005, 05:22 PM

Like John said OR buy a harbor freight air hammer $30. Less chance of bending anything, too. Use a blunt end.

Doug

Joe Bob · Joe Bob's Garage

They pound right out and will suck in with 120 lbs of air gun......Anything less than that and the won't bottom out. Hand cranking willl do it but it's hard on ya. Best to use open headed steel bolts as well.

As to prestudded spacers. They "work" but race scrutineers will ding ya on them. Depends if ya race or not. Last POC/PCA DE I did, they wouldn't let a couple of guys "race" with them.