911 CV boot replacement ??
 

Has anyone had to replace the boots on your CV's lately? Is this an easy job in your garage, or is this a shop only job? A estimate of $$$ would be extremely helpful,
Thanks,
Mike

Sorry, it's a 1988 ..

You can do it in your garage, but it's more involved than just slapping on a new boot. You should take off the axle & do both, which means slipping the CV joints off the axles, which means you should also repack them with grease if the need it, which means you should also replace the bolts with new ones.

Thanks Marv,
I appreciate the info.
Mike

It is a piece of cake. You remove the wheels, remove the outer axle nut (this kid is very tight) remove the bolts holding the axle to the output flange, lower the inside of the axle and push the axle out of the hub. As Marv said you now need to rebuild the axles, another piece of cake. Tap off the dust cap on the inboard cv joint, remove the snap ring on the end of the axle and cut the innermost metal clamp, now remove the inner cv joint.Be very careful if you turn the joint too far off center you will be reassembling the greasy piece. Now cut the small clamp and pull or cut the boot off the axle. Next just cut the clamps off the outboard boot and slide the boot off the end of the axle. Clean everything and anything that has grease on or in it. Make sure to make your final cleaning a good one and don't leave any solvants in the cv joints. Get the boot kits you have purchased from Pelican and re asseble in reverse order DON"T FORGET TO USE THE NEW GREASE! You will need a special pair of boot clamping pliers to close up the new clamps.
I recomend wearing rubber gloves while doing this job and some old clothes this job is nasty but not hard.
Good luck

If your CV joints are not making any noise, dont waste the time and money rebuilding them.
Replacing the boots is relatively easy, as described above. I dont think you need new bolts as stated in the first reply, but I recommend new schnorr washers under the bolts that attach the axle to the output flange.
When reinstalling, make sure the bolt thds, and the internal thds on the output flange are clean. This will lessen the chance of them backing out.
You will at least need a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec.
I suggest you do a search on "CV joint" and read the many posts that have been written on the subject. Lots of important info.

Ok 996 way to remind me I forgot some info................now where did I put those......um..........hey look a butterfly

Good info here but..................The really hard part is the big nut on the outside of the axle shaft. IT IS TIGHT! Crack that one open before you take the wheels off meaning: With the wheels on the ground, hand brake on tight, tranny in reverse, put a 3/4" drive socket thru the center opening of the wheel and with a long extension crack it loose.
Or, a 3/4" drive impact if you have.
Do not try a 1/2 " drive, it'll break.
Everything is relative: If you have skills, and tools, it's easier.
If you are a novice with limited skills, or tools, it's a beech.
This job is easy on an SC, but not so easy on a Carrera because the stub axle is part of the half-shaft.
Do a search and get a Bentley repair manual for your 911.

Thanks guys, excellent information, sounds very do able.
Mike

Gunther says..." This job is easy on an SC, but not so easy on a Carrera because the stub axle is part of the half-shaft...."

I may be wrong...but I think Carrera's up to early 85 build date still have the SC syle. 84-to early 85 Carrera'a are cross-over years on this point.

- Wil

Interesting point, Wil; Let's hear from the '84-'85 owners.
His is an '88 though and he'll have to fight that big nut.
Ho heave! I think it's around 210 Ft-lb?

Mike,

Here is the CV joint thread:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/62514-cv-joint-disassembly.html

In addition to the above, you will have to undo the lower shock mounting bolt (it can be very tight.)

I think you should clean and lube the CVs when you replace the boots. Why do half the job and someday have to replace the CV joints themselves due to wear. :(

When you seal the end caps back on the CVs, get very little sealant between where the CV clamps with the bolts. You want as much metal-on-metal as possible.

Replacing the CV bolts and Schnorr lock washers is cheap insurance. Read my procedure in the above thread. Be sure and re-torque the bolts after driving and periodically.

Best,
Grady
:)

You can get a very decent 3/4" metric drive set from Harbor Freight for about $40 when they are on sale. Comes with sockets, rachet, breaker bar and extensions. Unbelieveable deal since you will only use it on axle nuts or foreign made earth moving equipment.

The 3/4" sockets and extensions make great pounding tools that are required to separate the flange from the axle. Helps to have a decent vice - also available for little money at HF.

To remove the transaxle bolts - use a lot of extensions and a impact wrench to go at it from the wheel well as opposed to laying under the car.

Definitely an easy DIY project. Replace both boots on both sides while you are at it. I changed one side only and 1 year later had to do the other side.