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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lake Tapps, WA
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Starting my RSR project... fiberglass tips and suggestions?
OK, so I have been wanting to get this project rolling for a long, long time but other projects got pushed to the front of the line. Anyway the car is an RS bodied '70E with a custom 3.2L. I am now converting it to RSR body work and I have never really worked with fiberglass before.
All the parts are from Rennspeed with the exception of the rear flares which are from GT racing. I was surprised to see the finish work on the GT racing stuff was nicer...smoother edges and nicer gel coat. However, all the Rennspeed stuff seems to fit just fine at least in my mock-up scenario so I don't know if the finish work really matters so much at this point. They were about half the cost and that did matter. I am planning on attatching the flares with Durabond. Does anyone by any chance have one of the dispenser guns they would be willing to loan me? Any tips to using this stuff, is there supposed to be a designated space between the two pieces for the glue to fill...like 1/16" or something? What about glassing over the junction area between the metal and fiberglass flare... do I need to overlap that with glass or is the bonding sufficient if the overlap is about 1"? Any tips for mounting the bumpers, not that it looks real difficult...drill big hole, bolt it down. Anyone done a real clean install that wouldn't mind giving me some tips? I hope to get some work done this weekend so I'll have more pics very soon. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Chris, you're insane. You might consider reading the recent OT thread on reducing sleep. Some good tips in there that might help with the deadlines, anyway.
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Hi cnielsen, nice project. I have one like that planned in the future as well.
sorry no anweres only more questions. Are your flares "real" RSR flares, or turbo style. From the side-view pictures they look the part, but from the front they look more like a turbo flare. I'm asking cause i need to find a source for these parts when I'm ready to start Thanks
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I live in seattle and boat builder in composites.
I can give you some advice, Colin 206.612.0444 ![]() |
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cnielsen, nice Ducati you have there!
I know that when my GT-Racing flares were attached, they used screws in addition to glue for extra strenght. ![]() ![]() car is going to look awesome, good luck with it!
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Location: Prescott, AZ
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cnielsen(Chris?), I just finished bonding my 'R' flares on this week. I'll attach a few pics for reference. I used 3M 8115 Panel Bonding Adhesive, it has small(.02")plastic particles that will set the adhesive thickness for you. Once I cut the existing flares off and fit the glass flares(give a good 2-3 inches of bonding surface), I used a hammer & dolly to match the steel to the underside contour of the glass flare, this way when you look/feel the underside of the fender, you can not tell this car has glass flares w/o a magnet. I also drilled holes for screws about 1 1/2" apart, 1/2" in from the outer edge of the flare, all the way around--this will help hold the panel while the adhesive sets. Grind the glass and the steel mating surface with a 50-80 grit wheel to give a nice clean/rough surface for the adhesive, then clean everything the adhesive will touch with laquer thinner. Butter both parts w/adhesive & make sure you have complete coverage on both panels, then screw the flare on & let it sit for at least 24hrs, longer if it's cold/wet. Don't screw it down too tight or you'll see the glass panel deform(you'll get the feel for it). Remove the screws carefully once the adhesive has set. Now, lift up good on that flare to make sure it's not coming off, better it come off now rather than after paint. Then take an 80grit disc and sand the outer edges of the flare to feather into the original steel panel. I'm using a product called Fibral from U-Pol (www.u-pol.com), to fill the screw holes & finish the flare to body seam/witness line. It is a very flexible glass reinforced filler that will not crack over time. Once you've finished the seam to where the flare is indistinguishable from the original panel, shoot some 2K primer over it, then a guide coat, then sand & check for low/high spots. Fill/sand any low spots again until you're completely satisfied with the results, and that's pretty much it. Oh yeah, I'm no bodyman, and I'm only sharing my own method here for reference(be it right or wrong), so if your flares fall off, please don't blame me
![]() -Dave. My hand made flare to match the glass. You can see my cut line wasn't perfectly straight. ![]() Showing screws from the outside ![]() You can see where the steel meets the glass--perfect. The black stripe in the center is the adhesive. ![]()
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Hey thanks guys. That certanly helps!!! I was on the right track with what I was thinking...now I just have to get the Makita out and start cuttnig some metal.
The flares are "real" RSR flares, well at least the correct curvature. They are not turbo. I have a lot to do this weekend and I also have to start shaving the rain gutters...that should be an experience on its own! Chris
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" in Ballard ..."
Let the Norwegian jokes begin... (or we can eschew history and start right off with the yuppie jokes...)
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Any updates Chris ? I,m about to do the same job and would like to know how things went for you. Pics of the project would be awesome !
Cheers,
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found this in a search for 8115.
says everything that Dave highlighted really, but thought it may be worth seeing
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Andy 1980 SC soon to be big hp 3.3t powered 73RSR Replica (well, I'm keeping the engine but everything else is going ![]() |
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