Cylinder head question: Is there a better way to cool them?
 

Aside from what we know of the decklid grill and fan, is there any other way to bring more and cooler air into the engine compartment, specifically to cool the cylinder heads?

I'd like to see or at least read some suggestions.

Thanks.
SmileWavy

Dave, do a search on Grady Clay's "Rubbermaid Solution" which uses the cooling effect of water and convection. I'm currently building a unit and will possibly trial it this weekend. It's mainly for limited duration, such as track days.

Cheers

Cool, John - thanks. Please post photos if you get the chance.

Some people remove the stone protector tray from under the engine to aid in cooling.

Not aware of any other methods.

Here's the link. Photos are on page 3 I think.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=150982&highlight=rubber maid

David, have you investigated under the cooling shroud. Your problem appears to be unique to your car. I wonder if you don't have debris or the like covering the cylinders and heads, thus preventing them from being cooled like all the other engines out there.

Souk,

You mean like this? Never could figure out why the 2.4 in my '72 was not running correctly. Replaced it with a loaner 2.2 and pulled the original engine apart.

Found that a mouse had used the top of my engine for a nice winters nest. This is in Berlin, circa 1988 or so.

JoeA

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1132723764.jpg

Yep!! I've found shop rags and dead mice in some engines I've taken apart. Not to mention the 1/4 inch or more of crud that's coated the engine.

I think we're talking about latent heat of vaporization...not so much convection......

Wil

Wil, I think David will chime in as soon as he wakes up on the west coast :), but he has been having problems with his engine that others don't seem to have. Pinging under situs that others don't seem to have.

Souk:

I understand....

I'm answering Fishcop's opening remarks..... and offering some technical clarity to the defintion of the rubbermaid solution of Grady's.

Wil

Yep... What Wil said :)

I've seen that on other 911 motors. I wonder why mice like that spot?
-Chris

Here's something... I've posted before but no answers ( too far out, perchance?)...

How 'bout those lousy heat valves that are OPEN when there is no call for heat into the cabin? These flapper valves are way-up near the top of the rear shock tower...and they SPEW a hellacious amount of heat onto the ( ta da !) shock body ( no good !) and front of the engine...near the heads ( also no good!).

Isn't there ANY way to attach SCEET or something to the discharge of these valves and route them closer to grade or behind the car ??? Even if the seal to the valves ( tough access) isn't perfect ??

- Wil

Will, it'd be better if the heat could be closed off completely, so that on cars with early style heat, cooling air for the motor is not diverted to go over the heater boxes. If the heat could be closed off, then all the air from the fan would be forced over the cylinders/heads. Plus the benefits you listed.

J. Klauke:

We've been ( kinda) through this before...there is a reason that Porsche chose to design an air-flow path through these valves in the "closed" ( to the cabin) position...and NOT use a system that is used in air-cooled VW's.

It might be for cooling the HX and not letting them get "too" hot when there is no flow to the cabin.

So....I'd like to find a way to keep the design parameters in-tact...but simply put a tail-piece of tubing on the discharge side...so it can be directed elsewhere....

Anyone ??

Wil