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IAN IAN is offline
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A bit itimidated to remove outer wheel bearing- adjustment sounds simple...is it?

I have the dust covers off and I'm considering pulling the the adjustment nut off so I can remove the outer bearing, inspect and re-pack.

The re-adjustment sounds simple. I have heard from the 'man' (John Walker) to just screw the adjustment screw finger tight.

Is it really that simple?

My struts are off of the car completly so I can really do the shake test with the wheel at this point.


Thanks.
Old 11-25-2005, 03:55 PM
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It is just that simple. Do make sure your contact surfaces are not marred.
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:00 PM
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I was taught the old VW technique

Crank the nut down fairly tight, then back it off untill you can just move the washer with a big screw driver.

Anybody??
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:15 PM
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It is that simple. I've used the screwdriver technique too.
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:32 PM
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You've done the hardest part already...
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:34 PM
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Since your taking the outer one off anyway why not buy a grease seal (perhaps 2?), take the hub off clean both bearings with solvent, repack with grease and then reinstall? How long has it been since this was done on the car?
Old 11-25-2005, 05:22 PM
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yup, tighten it snug. then loosen to adjust
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Old 11-25-2005, 06:09 PM
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Just replaced bearings and races last night. Fun project. No problems>
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Old 11-25-2005, 06:59 PM
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One thing that should be noted, when you cinch the bearing down and then back it off, ALWAYS be rotating the hub as you tighten so you do not score the races.
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Old 11-25-2005, 08:53 PM
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Yep - back it off until the thrust washes just moves side to side. It' s that easy.
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Old 11-25-2005, 10:16 PM
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good point on the rotating part
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Old 11-26-2005, 12:54 AM
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The "crank the nut down, then back it off until you can just move the washer with a big screwdriver" technique", and "rotating the wheel as you turn the wrench”, are correct.

I'll add two other suggestions. First, before you take it apart, slide the washer around a bit to literally get the feel of how tight it should be. Second, pull the hub and rotor off the car completely. Then you can repack (or replace if needed) both the inner and outer bearings and install new seals. If you only repack the outer bearings, you're only replacing about 20% of the grease.
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Old 11-26-2005, 06:18 AM
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Hi IAN, You really need to remove the front hub to do the job right. I don't know what year your 911 is but you will have to take the solid brake line off the caliper to remove it. This will entail a brake bleed after you are done, do a search on that too. Keep all parts separate, left and right side. Is the Bend Brewery still there? They used to have the best stout ever. Let us know how the project is going.
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Old 11-26-2005, 06:47 AM
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As posted in another thread on this topic....

by FAR.... the easiest way to get those pesky dust covers off is here-->

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/show...D+cap+AND+clamp

- Wil
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Old 11-26-2005, 08:01 AM
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IAN IAN is offline
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Update: and a few more questions

I have a 72 2.4 911 T.

I removed the left strut entirely as I'm in the process of replacing shocks, upgrading to turbo tie rods, new ball joints and a wheel bearing inspect/repack.

I got a big flat screwdriver under the dust cap and took it off in about 20 seconds. The entire hub is off.

Does the thrustwasher test/finger tight method still apply if the wheel is off and sitting flat on the ground? Or does it only apply if the wheel is sitting vertically mounted on the strut/car. I was thining about this last night and wondering.

I pulled about a cup of grease out from the cavity between the inner and outer bearings. Is this correct? I will obviously re-pack the bearings but do people fill the cavity where the spindle sits as well? Or is this grease that has flung out of the bearings?

I need to remove the inner grease seal and then carefully clean both bearings and re-pack.

Anything else?
Old 11-26-2005, 08:10 AM
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