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Leaking oil line

I have a leaking oil line. It also looks like it spraying oil around.

As I see it is a one piece oil line all the way to the thermostat.

How do I remove this? Do I have to lower down the entire oil lines all the way to the front cooler?

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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
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Old 11-27-2005, 06:32 AM
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How do I remove this? Do I have to lower down the entire oil lines all the way to the front cooler?

No, but you will need to remove both lines to the t-stat. check out the current thread on the oil line wrenches for lots of good info on how to get these loose. My experience has been to clean them, PB Blast them, heat them and then use a good 36 mm wrench on the nut while holding the tstat body stable. If I recall the nut is steel and the tstat body/threads are aluminum..so apparently very easy to remove the nut with the aluminum threads from the tstat stripped off in to the nut.!
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Old 11-27-2005, 06:42 AM
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I have a 36mm wrench. But getting it in there... It isn't a flared car, hell it must be easier to lower the whole package down...

The leaking line it self: I'm making a wild guess, it more expensive than gold. Can I just use a steel braided hose all the way instead?
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
924 -79 rat roddy...
931 -79 under total restoration...
Old 11-27-2005, 06:52 AM
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Have a close look at the joint where the leaking rubber line connects to the steel line. Is it possible to disconnect the rubber line there?
My SC has SSI's and I don't remember how the old lines were connected.
If it is not possible to disconnect the rubber line on both ends, the disconnect from the thermostat is not that easy; there is no room there.
People recommend to clean the area, use lots of penetrating oil, and use a big wrench on the nut and a second one to counter-hold.
But , in order not to damage the threads on the thermostat, some people use a small cutting tool like a Dremel to cut the steel nut (which is scrap anyway) and pry the nut off. This is what I would do.
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Old 11-27-2005, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gunter
Have a close look at the joint where the leaking rubber line connects to the steel line. Is it possible to disconnect the rubber line there?
Not possible, not in a way I can understand anyway.

Is there a quick fix? Since there isn't high pressure I tried a
to patch it with a vulcanizing tape. That worked, for a very short time, until the tape melted....
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
924 -79 rat roddy...
931 -79 under total restoration...
Old 11-27-2005, 07:20 AM
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I used the Dremel method at the thermostat. This was after much effort on my part to get the nut loose. I'm sure our host has that line, here it is. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_ENGoil_pg4.htm#item14

Looks like $87.00 one will work.
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Old 11-27-2005, 07:20 AM
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It can be confusing. I think this is the right one:


Oil Line from Thermostat to Engine Oil Line (Only for cars w/front oil cooler), 911 (1975-83), 911 Turbo (1976-77)
Brand: Cohline [Photo] [Photo]

911-107-743-10-M20 $87.25

Magnus: You can try to cut the rubber line where it leaks, remove the threaded nipple from the steel line, go to a shop that does hydraulic hoses and let them crimp a short new hose on the nipple, then you screw the nipple back into the steel line, insert a short piece of pipe into the rubber hose and clamp it. Use two hose clamps (Double clamp) on each end of the short inner pipe.
That's what I would do; less hassle then removing the whole line.
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD!
1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats.
Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ".
Old 11-27-2005, 07:55 AM
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That sounds like a good idea, Gunter!
Less risk of destroying the thermostat.
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
924 -79 rat roddy...
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Old 11-27-2005, 08:06 AM
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First pix: oil line is pulling down, which is causing the leak.
Second: Heat the nut with a torch, and tap on it with a hammer..

Works every time for me...
Old 11-27-2005, 10:36 PM
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Its pulling down now because I have done a partial engine drop.
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
924 -79 rat roddy...
931 -79 under total restoration...
Old 11-28-2005, 12:13 AM
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coolcavaracing.com
 
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Hi Magnus, I have the same problem
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Old 11-28-2005, 01:07 AM
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Depending on the environment your SC has been in for its lifetime, many of these hose fittings are "frozen" to the aluminum thermostat house.

This housing is much more costly than the oil line/hose.

To avoid destroying its threads, we split the offending nut at 90 deg with the threads with an air "whizzer" or Dremel tool.

Do not cut it all the way through, just enough to break it loose and still keep the alum threads intact.

I hope this helps.

Len

Old 11-28-2005, 03:42 AM
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A second question: As you can see on the last picture one fitting on the thermostat is also leaking.
Does that indicate something, like a damaged thermostat housing?
It doesn't seam very likely that it would start leaking otherwise.
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
924 -79 rat roddy...
931 -79 under total restoration...
Old 11-28-2005, 04:26 AM
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I,ve yet to strip out the threads on the stat. and have removed many. Use 2 large wrenches. An adjustable to brace the thermostat and another to turn the line nut. Sometimes you need to remove the other line at the stat first for clearance.Penetrating oil and heat are good to have.Once it breaks loose turn back and forth a couple of times to clear the threads. The line can be replaced new for under $100 or you can cut out the hose section and have another crimped in .(Almost as costly about $50). It is common for that hose to bleed a little at the crimp .
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Last edited by johnsjmc; 11-28-2005 at 04:59 AM..
Old 11-28-2005, 04:57 AM
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Well, I have all winter to figure out what to do.
Next I´m replacing torsionbars and bushings

The lines under the car to the front cooler, what are they made of?
Copper? Galvanized steel?
I was thinking if I lowered them down I could get them real clean, since they are not right now...
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
924 -79 rat roddy...
931 -79 under total restoration...

Last edited by safe; 11-28-2005 at 05:07 AM..
Old 11-28-2005, 05:03 AM
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Hay Magnus, you want to do my torsionbars after you have done yours
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Old 11-28-2005, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kroggers
Hay Magnus, you want to do my torsionbars after you have done yours
Maybe
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
924 -79 rat roddy...
931 -79 under total restoration...
Old 11-28-2005, 05:12 AM
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Hmmm, if I remember correctly, you are not just round the corner from Stockholm

But my winter project is to re-build my complete front end, and could do with some support

I have my Elephant Racing stuff and torsionbars, just have to get all the other stuff!!!
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1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 11-28-2005, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Kroggers
Hmmm, if I remember correctly, you are not just round the corner from Stockholm

But my winter project is to re-build my complete front end, and could do with some support

I have my Elephant Racing stuff and torsion bars, just have to get all the other stuff!!!
No, unfortunately I´m in Kalmar, 400 km from you.

I have got my PolyBronze (front and rear), but not the torsion bars yet, but I have begun soaking the bolts with penetrating oil
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Magnus
911 Silver Targa -77, 3.2 -84 with custom ITBs and EFI. Just works!
911T Coupe -69, 3.6, G50, "RSR", track day. Sorting out issues...
924 -79 rat roddy...
931 -79 under total restoration...
Old 11-28-2005, 05:23 AM
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yes - 400Km is not a quick drive down the road And there is no way I will drive my 911 during the winter on all that salt

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1978 911SC 3.6 | 2001 Boxster S Racing Car | 1966 912 based 911 RSR replica racing car (for sale!)
come and follow the Porsche Sports Cup racing fun and me at www.facebook.com/coolcavaracing
Old 11-28-2005, 05:31 AM
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