POR-15 in an Aerosol??

[vesnyder]

Anybody used an aerosol rust proofer that worked?? I sure would like something like a POR-15 in a spay can! I am a big fan of POR-15, but if I could find something in an aerosol that worked almost as good I would give it a try. POR-15 is good stuff but given the area I neeed to cover and the setup time of POR-15 (taking from the can. putting into another container, etc ...) I can save myself a ton of time and mess by using an aerosol. I tried the stuff from the auto parts store and it does not cut it - it was old and I will give a new can another try. ANYBODY??

[sammyg2]

Funny this came up today:
I have used a rust converting primer from home depot twice with very good sucess. It comes in either a quart or gallon can and is similar to POR-15. Yesterday I was in there and saw the same product in an aerosol can so I bought it.
I want to treat the area under my battrery just for good measure and will try it there.
If it works anywhere near as well as the stuff in the cans I will be very pleased and post my results here.

[dmcproud]

take a look at Rust Encapsulator at www.eastwood.com

It comes in cans and aerosol and in three colors. It has outperformed POR 15 in every test I have seen. I have used it in several applications
with primer, unprimed and topcoated and I really think it is a superb product

D

[Zeke]

Originally posted by dmcproud
take a look at Rust Encapsulator at www.eastwood.com

It comes in cans and aerosol and in three colors. It has outperformed POR 15 in every test I have seen. I have used it in several applications
with primer, unprimed and topcoated and I really think it is a superb product

D

I'm not doubting you, but I'd like to see what kind of tests are used and the actual results. They also have a product called Corroless, right? One home based test I read said it was usless. I took that with a grain of rust.

I'm not a die hard POR15 fanatic. I think the stuff is very good. But, there are other products out there. I've used Hammerite (OK, but nothing special), Rustoleum (just a good enamel, not a panacea), and some locally made, industrial paint-over-rust primer that is as good as any and for much less.

Remember that I live next to the one of the largest harbors in the world with refineries here and there to boot. There are some serious paint products available for industrial and marine maintenance being used every day.

[Joeaksa]

Good to know and I would like to find something in a spray can as well. Its a hassle to mix and setup and a can would make things a lot easier.

Joe A

[sammyg2]

Phosphoric acid (naval jelly) is the most common and widely used rust converter. It will convert the rust and kill it but it doesn't completely seal and prevent further rust from forming down the road.
It works very well as long as a very good compatible primer and top coat are applied over it and the surface is prepped correctly.
It is also cheap and has a long shelf life. Last time I bought some I think it was around $3 for an 8 oz bottle.
One down side is that like any acid it is hazardous. I don't think I would try to use it in a spray form.

As a side-track, do you know that one of the most dangerous and hazardous acids known to man is present in aluminum polish?
Most contain trace HF (hydrogen fluoride, hydrofluoric acid). This stuff will eat through glass and 300 series stainless steel. It also eats aluminum oxide, that's what makes it turn black when you rub it in.
1 cc of pure HF on bare skin is concidered a lethal dose if not immediately treated and neutralized with calcium gluconate.
One thing that makes it so nasty is that it can be easlily diluted but is only neutralized in the body through the absobion of calcium. It keeps eating and killing cells until it has absorbed enough calcium to be completely neutralized.
I have had the misfortune to get a minor HF burn. 3 large shots of calcium gluconate mixed with KY jelly into a knuckle on my hand prevented serious bone loss but I passed out cold as a wedge during the third shot. No fun allowed there.
Aluminum polish uses the stuff in a very low concentration but it is still hazardous. If you are using an aluminum polish that contains HF I suggest using rubber gloves.
They also use it to etch glass, but again in low concetrations.

[dmcummins]

I just ordered some stuff called Zero Rust in an aerosol can. Havn't tried it yet and no way of telling if the stuff is any good till its been on something for a while. But I'm going to give it a try.

[dmcummins]

Here is a link. Like I said though, I have no idea if its any good. http://www.autobodystore.com/coatings.htm

[Evans, Marv]

I know you can buy refillable aerosol cans the you pressurize yourself from different places. I think I got one from HF or Eastwood that I haven't used yet. I wonder if POR15 could be thinned a little with their solvent or something like MEK and sprayed from one of those. I have always hesitated from using POR15 in a spray rig being afraid it would set up in the gun or hose and I'd never get it cleaned out.

[RoninLB]

I've shot Por-15 from a touch-up gun many times. I might have used toluene or lacquer thinner for clean up..

[dmcproud]

Milt

take a look at this comparison / analysis from Auto Restorer

http://www.eastwood.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688&iSubCat=852

D

[JohnJL]

Rust bullit and Zero Rust are popular second-choices to POR among the FJ40 offroad crowd...I stick with POR tho...

[oneblueyedog]

I sprayed Por 15 too. Just wear all the protective gear. I used a Preval sprayer one time. Used their reducer. That's pretty close to a can.

Last time I rolled it on with a foam roller in my engine bay. I used protective clothing and mask in both cases. The roller was just tossed after cure.

I thought it turned out decently.

[oneblueyedog]

Here's a shot showing the contrast of the old paint with Por 15. The engine bay is very rough textured seam sealer inderneath the fuse panel, it's not runs from the Por 15. I wasn't going for a metallic silver match anyway.

[JohnJL]

blueye...
Did you find the silver "yellowed" with age? I found this, but maybe UV-driven, in which case under-hood might not matter.

Actually, my favorite use for silver is as the first coat on a restoration. I then follow with POR black and finally Chassis-coat or Hard-nose until I can't see silver anymore. I have never seen a rock-chip or rust develop through 3 coats of POR!!!!

[JohnJL]

and yes, wear gloves, tyvek suit and breather/mask. That stuff stick to EVERYTHING, FOREVER.

[competentone]

I've used Mar-Hyde (spelling?) rust converter (Advance Auto has it in our area) and have been very satisfied with the results. I have not used it on any cars, just other rusty metal applications.

I like it because it's not "water-based" when you get it in the aerosol can. They do have a brush-on converter in a bottle that is water-based that I have not tried.

[oneblueyedog]

Originally posted by JohnJL
blueye...
Did you find the silver "yellowed" with age? I found this, but maybe UV-driven, in which case under-hood might not matter.

It hasn't yellowed yet (1.5 years). The original paint sure did, as you can see.