Torque Setting for Hollow Screws on Fuel Distributor

[hoff944]

So I've got my engine out and was replacing some things. I had the fuel lines disconnected from the fuel distributor. It took a lot to break them loose. I figured I would tighten them down pretty snug since a lot of pressure goes thru them. All of them tightened down okay with the exception of one that sheared off. Luckily I was able to get it out. Does anyone know what the torque settings for these are? I've exhausted the search button and have given up. I don't think anyone has every posted them here. Does anybody know? Also they only had one washer on the top side of the fitting. I've seen illistrations with washers only on the top, and then some illistrations with washers on both sides. Any shared knowledge and info would be appreciated.

P.S. I've learned a lot with this engine drop.

[hoff944]

Bump........

[MotoSook]

The banjo bolt and banjo seals with the aluminum washers, so you don't need a lot of torque. If they leak, you just put a little more torque on them. I don't use a torque wrench on those...my muscle memory tells me when they've been tighten enough. If I had to guess, I'd say 8-10 lbs will be adequate.

Don't judge the tightening torque by the torque needed to break a nut or bolt loose, esp. one that has been in service for a long time.

[safe]

I had one loose a few months ago and I just tightened it a little snug with a short wrench.
Nowhere near as much torque as it took to get is loose, maybe 8-10 lbs as Souk said, probably even less. No leaks for me.

[Jim Sims]

Torque for the hollow fuel bolts.
M8, Small ones on top of injectors and fuel dist. 7-9 ft lb.
M10, Only one on top of the warm up regulator with a smaller #8 9-11 ft lb.
M12, Fuel filter, and larger on side of the fuel distributor. 14-17 ft lb.
M12 Cap nut, Dome nut on top of new style fuel pump 11-14 ft lb.
M14 Cap nut, 18-22 ft lb.

[hoff944]

Much thanks. I plan to have her on the road again by Christmas.