Nice work...

Super flywheel lock! (no sarcasm)

-Wayne

These are 12mm 12-point bolts with a relatively short head. Very important to have a good quality tool and to seat it properly in the bolt head before trying to loosen them. Otherwise its easy to round them and then you are in trouble. I use a 24" breaker bar which makes it almost an easy job.

You can grind the bit end flat if it gets rounded or messed up at all - inspect carefully, even use a magnifier to look at it and the bolt head

push INTO the bolt as you twist to ensure proper seating

Always use the tools that come with the car !! Some say you can dismantle a 911 with the stock tool kit. Have to try this out one day.

May have trouble with the cam nut...!

Ihre Arbeit ist sehr schön.

Congrats and keep posting.

Fernando.

My powder coater is still dragging his feet, but at least this gives me time to do all the small stuff without too much urgency. Replaced the crankshaft seals with a thin layer of "Blue Hylomar" sealant on the seating surface and sealed the case plugs with epoxy. Also have pulled the oil cooler for new seals, to straighten some bend fins and to steam clean the cooling surface. Starter motor is overhauled and ready to go back into the car. The engine bay is painted and its good to have some days to let it dry thoroughly. Still struggling whether to remove the left heat exchanger in order to replace the oil line (engine to tank). I have a new 2-piece replacement (74+) for the old 1-piece line which seems to be the original part. The rubber section still looks o.k. from the outside, but after 33 years it sure won't hurt to replace it. I just hate these exhaust header nuts !!!

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Guenter, did you shoot that paint yourself.....where did you hide your compressor? If your garage mate doesn't smell the fresh paint....you could do just about anything...if he/she is that oblivious:)

Its all about timing. My neighbor gave me a break and is out for the weekend. The moment he was out of sight, I was shaking spray cans (no compressor, we don't want to push things). Paint should be dry by tomorrow and on Sunday I can open the garage door for a while, in case the smell is still too strong. Anyway I consider painting as part of "cleaning" so there really shouldn't be any problem with it.

It's going to rain in RW city (I live up the street in San Carlos, by the way)for the next 4 days, I hope that paint smell goes away on its own. I also heard that painting in this damp weather does not make for a long lasting paint job. Your engine comp paint looks good, let's hope it lasts with the heat.

I'm using engine enamel. Already used it for my Fuchs wheel centers and the fan shroud and both held up well for many years. Luckily "Chevy Orange" is very close to "Tangerine" or "Continental Orange" and you only see a difference when holding both colors next to each other. Another reason to buy orange cars !!!

Was traveling and had to pause the project for a while. The engine bay paint is dry and turned out pretty nice. Also replaced the sift selector rod seal and it was quite tough to get the old seal out of the tranny housing. While having the drive train out, I was planning to turn over the rear trailing arm bolts (inner banana arm bolts), so I can remove the arms without dropping/lowering the gearbox. However it looks as if the bolts are too long to go in the other way round (nut at the inside). I tried from all angles but anything short from widening the holes in the mounts (which of course is no option) seems not to work. Anyone knows if Porsche changed the geometry of the rear mounts for the later cars or the shape of the torsion bar tube, because most later cars I know have the bolts the other way round ? At the moment the arms are still connected to the hub and the spring plate and I wanted to avoid disconnecting them, as this would add a brake bleed job and a rear alignment to the task list. Hope anyone out there has a "secret tip" how to get those bolts in the other way round. I thought separating the arms from the hub/spring plate might help, but don't want to start before someone can confirm this is the way to go ?? (Solution see: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/260973-73-cant-reverse-banana-arm-bolts.html)
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P AG changed the orientation of the bolts at s ome point - if your is a '73 it might have been after that. The pic confuses me tho as it appears the bolt head faces inward towards the engine comp./tunnel and it should pull out that way.

Anyway, the fix is to cut the bolt out if it won't come out -- but it should since the engine is gone.

Thanks Randy,

I can get the bolt out without a problem, now with the tranny removed. The problem is that I can not get the bolt in the other way round (bolt head facing outwards and nut inside facing tunnel side). My car is an early 73 (January 73).

Hadn't had too much time lately, but now the car is slowly going back together again. The flywheel is torqued down, the oil cooler is back in the engine with new seals and all the new fuel lines and heater hoses are installed. I re-routed the breather hose and mounted it to the to firewall, to get some order in all the lines criss-crossing the engine bay. Should also help to prevent oil sludge puddling in the breather hose. Almost forgot to install my new release bearing fork (good to have a check-list and even better if you use it !!). Also repaired the fan shroud which had lost some of its corners and edges over the years. Next step will be to complete the engine and make it ready to go back into the car. Can't wait to drive again.
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Its done. Engine and tranny are back in the car. No surprises and everything went quite smooth. It's fun to work with clean parts and watch everything come together. Even the paper air hoses slipped on without buckling - I really thought it is not possible to install them without destroying them in the process. Before the installation, I also treated the magnesium gearbox housing with a corrosion protection wax. Next step will be to finish all connections, check all fasteners and then start it up and adjust the carbs.
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Absolutely gorgeous. Outstanding work, the neighbor couldn't say a word!

O.K. almost done. But of course there were some surprises. The moment I connected the battery cable, the starter motor started spinning by itself. First thought I had messed up the wiring, but that's almost impossible with 3 wires (even for a mechanical engineer). As the starter was just spinning and not engaging I figured something is wrong with the solenoid. Took the solenoid out (which is quite easy now that everything is cleaned up) and discovered that the solenoid plunger must have slipped of the activation lever when I assembled the starter, blocking the solenoid in the closed position. I probably should have left the starter in one piece the first time, as there was no real need to take it apart. With the solenoid back in place everything worked as expected. Primed the fuel system, checked for leaks and adjusted the fuel pressure to 3 psi. Everything was tight except the Weber banjo fittings. Again, I had installed new seals although I never had trouble reusing the old seals many times before. After re-torquing the banjo bolts they are still leaking slightly, but I would hate to over-torque the bolts or break the carb housing. Engine started right away and I could do a first basic carb tuning. By next week I have to tighten those banjo bolts and then do a second carb tuning. Clutch also needs some more adjustment to disengage properly. Looks we are getting ready for spring.

Awesome, you'll be just in time for a Mines Road Pelican run.

Guenter,
Regarding the leaking banjo bolts. I had to remove and replace them recently for a test fitting for some AN fittings, but I didn't have any new gaskets. So I applied Loctite 574 on both sides of each gasket, reinstalled them, then let it sit overnight. Next day, I energized the pump and pressurized the system to check. No leak. I would also lube the banjo bolt threads with anti-seize to minimize galling.

Sherwood

Saubere Arbeit, Guenter! Mensch, bei der Qualitaet kannst Du meine naechste Kupplung auch reparieren! Und jetzt kauf Dir endlich ein Haus, sonst muessen wir Dich zurueck nach Schwaben schicken! Auffischungkurs im Bereich "Schaffe schaffe Haeusle baue"!

;)

Georg

Outstanding work! This has been one of the best threads to track. I now live live in Georgia with lots of space. But, I spent 12 years in Foster City/San Mateo living in confined situations, I can really appreciate your covert operation.

Thanks Sherwood,

I had applied some oil to bolts and gaskets but seems these hard gaskets do not seal anything shy of a perfect surface. I will try some sealant.

Any plans yet ?? Just cruised Mines with the bike during the weekend and the road is clean and almost free of gravel (for this time of the year). Lots of deer on the road though. Better mount those cow-catcher-bars.

Guenter:

No plans I heard of, but it is as simple as posting a date and seeing who is up for it.

Key to get the deer count down is not to start before 10:30 am! I am in this weekend, if you want to go! :D

George

Thanks Goerge, I'm afraid I won't be able to make it this weekend, but count me in for the next run.

P.S. regarding your earlier message:
War nur fuer einige Jahre in CA und werde Ende des Jahres sowieso wieder nach Deutschland zurueckziehen, wo schon 140 qm Garage auf meinen 911 warten. Allerdings in der Pfalz und nicht in Schwaben, aber bzgl. "Haeusle baue" sind die Traditionen dort recht aehnlich - nur der Wein ist besser.

All's well, that ends well. Finally everything is completed. Took quite long, but I just had no time to work on the car and with all the rain we had in Norcal lately there was no urgency to rush anything anyway. After the initial carb synchronisation, I realized that I had to adjust my float levels. With all floats set to the correct specification it was quite easy to get a good carb balance. Engine runs smooth and idle has never been stronger. As the car was running far too rich before, I tuned it somewhat lean this time (idle circuit anyway). Still runs great under load, but immedeatly start backfiring when I back off the throttle. Will have to watch for a while and check my spark plugs to make sure it is not too lean. The Banjo fittings are also not leaking anymore. I took them apart and realized that the inner diameter of the new outer gaskets was slightly too small causing the gaskets not to seat properly. With new gaskets (checked the diameter before this time) the fittings sealed right up. While working on the carbs, the engine lid kept crushing down on my head approx. 100 times. After a while I was so fed-up, that I installed carbon fiber lid struts (Seine Systems, for both engine lid and trunk lid to keep things balanced). It seems even the forever leaking oil thermostat is tight this time. If this leak is sealed permanently, I will post a seperate thread on what I did (still can't believe it really works). With the carbs set and all leaks sealed I took the car out for a first spin. Was pleased that everything works great. Clutch works fine and shifting is surprisingly smooth (not sure if that's a result of the new rubber mounts ??). Engine runs great and pulls from 2,000 to redline without any hesitation. Spring has now officially arrived and I will take the car out for some shake-up runs during the next days. Thanks everyone for your input and advice - and by the way my neighbor is still clueless on what was going on in the garage. His Passat is starting to leak some kind of coolant - really disgusting.

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Someone close by should have an LM1. You shoudl borrow it. That way you don't have to guess!

Looks great!

George

Thanks and sure I will double check a.s.a.p. From my past experience it is amazing how accurate one can adjust Weber carbs by "ear and feel". Thats one of the things I like with the older cars. You really can get away with some basic tools and don't need a lot of special equipment. But of course it is much easier and faster with modern equipment.

Ha, that gave me a chuckle.

Did you bring this car from DE Geunter, or buy it here? If you did buy it here, no doubt you will want to bring it back with you, nicht wahr?

Very beautiful!

ianc

Bought the car here in CA immediately after arriving from Germany (still my only private transportation in the US, beside my bike). Almost impossible to find an affordable "rust-free" early 911 in Germany. In contrast you can still find great cars in CA on almost every corner, although prices have picked up quite a bit over the years. Of course I am planning to take the car back to Germany one day. Will be interesting to see if it still can hit redline in 5th gear on the Autobahn after 33 years of speed limit ?

I've often fantasized about driving my car on the autobahn. Lucky you!

ianc

Wayne, maybe you should start a "Pelican of the Year" award to the member who best shows the Porsche spirit of desire for performance through form and function. I nominate Guenter for this years award. What a great thread.

Thanks for the nomination, but I think almost everyone on this forum would be a good candidate. A really great bunch of "crazy" guys (and some girls). Always found a fast answer to any problem I encountered. Have not seen any other online forum (car related or others) which even comes close.

What make are the fuel filters and where did you get them? My other question is whether those are three or six inch K&N filter elements.

Fuel filters are Purolator/Fram G2 (universal 5/16"). Stocked by most Auto part stores such as Kragen, Pep Boys or Autozone and dirt cheap (also available as G3 = 3/8"). I like the transparent ones, because its easy to check fuel flow and see when its time for a replacement. Only for carbureted engines of course (not for CIS/EFI). My K&N filters are 3 1/4". Big enough for a standard 2.4 .

Thanks for the info. I too have carbs on my 2.4. Webers to be precise. I like the convenience of the clear filters as well. It looks very "LeMans". As for the K&N, that's something I'm planning.

I do have a LM1, if you want to borrow it. Just up the street in San Carlos.

I've got another example of a stealth rebuild.

In college, I pulled my 2.0 liter from my VW bus in the fraternity's parking lot. Tore it down on a tarp and cleaned everything with a bucket of gasoline. After everything was cleaned, I took the parts as I needed them up to our two bedroom apartment condo (shared between four guys). Then, after several weeks of running parts and assembling the engine on the kitchen table, it was ready to go back to the fraternity for the install - fully dressed with exhaust.

It took three or four of us to carry it out of the apartment and we ran into the condo manager who had a real puzzled look on his face as we walked by him.


Craig Backer