How do i remove the computer on my 89
 

I am trying to replace a chip but there is something i am missing when I try to pull the plug out of the computer because it doesn't come off.

How do you get the plug off .Is there a tab ?

89 carrera

You have to remove the seat to get to the dme box. You then have to remove the dme box from the floor of the car. The harness clips into the box but has a "hook" on the end of it that must also be undone by angling the harness after pressing the tabs on either side. This is actually pretty easy stuff. Getting the chip in is slightly more involved and I would recommend some help from someone or find some good instructions (ww.911chips.com) prior to going any farther. Good Luck.

I was able to remove my DME computer without removing the seat.

I totally agree with xlr8, seat removal is so not necessary.
Remove the nuts holding the DME in place and bring it out from under the seat.
Press the tabs back and the harness pivots from the clips in the front of the terminal.
This means, grip the wire harness where the wires enter into the terminal. While pressing the tabs, pull at this point, and you will see that it indeed pivots out. To replace, reverse the process.

In their infinite wisdom, why couldn't the Brilliant Porsche Engineers located the DME just a tad bit more forward, or better yet, not in the lowest point of the car if you are unfortunate to have a leak?

Gripping, pulling, pressing, and bending a 20 year old harness? This might be where my electrical gremlin is residing... Do your "OLD" harness a favor, and remove the seat to gain better access. There are a lot of soldered connections inside of that connector harness, that might not be quite as limber as you and I......

Removing seat to remove dme (I have to since I have SRD's and adaptors) and extra 10 minutes.
Not removing seats and removing nuts in the dark combined with a sore neck and knuckles 15min?

I removed the DME in my '85 several times without seat removal and it never took more than 15 minutes.

G50's are different.

Removing The Dme...
 

Thanks heavens for the Pelican Web Site, I would have probably ended up doing some grave damage without the help of this thread.

I might add it's a slam dunk to remove the DME without removing the seat.

1. I used a 1/4" drive and a deep No. 10 MM socket, removed the 4 nuts from the DME mounting base.

2. Swung the DME out from under the seat (I left the wire loom clamp in place), you'll want to rotate the DME box counter clock wise.

3. Un-snap the S.S. clip at the outboard end of the wire loom where it goes into the plastic connector. Flip up the plastic tab on top of the connector.

4. Rotate the DME box away from plastic connector, pivoting it from the inboard end. Once the outboard end of the connector is at about 45 degrees the other hooked end will come out. The inboard end looks like a fishing hook. It's better to rotate the box that rotating the wiring loom. You don't need or want to get too physical with the wiring loom.

I just thought I would add my 2 cents after reading the above replies and doing it the first time myself.

Good recap Mitch. Removing the seat is silly, I can just see someone on a dyno performing back-to-back chip comparisons (I did six one time), taking out the seat in order to swap each time :).

ps: No problem on a G50 either.

Yeah, it's not terribly hard to get to it with the seat in place. But it's something you sorta get used to, maybe. I've installed so many chips in so many 3.2's, maybe I'm just used to it.

The part where you really want to be careful is when you're separating the boards. Getting ham-handed there can rip the ribbon cable. But go slow, take your time, and you'll be fine.

Originally posted by RickM
I removed the DME in my '85 several times without seat removal and it never took more than 15 minutes.
Different than what? An 85 does not have a G50 trans. Its still a 915 till 87 model

Is it just me, but I've found removing the socket head cap screws on the rear seat rails is tedious. My seat over hangs the bolts even with the seat all the way forward so you can't get at the socket heads with alan mounted ratchet wrench.

What do you use?

HE'S got a G50.

Removing it was easy with the seat in place, as I wanted to see what was involved with swapping out the chip. After about a half hour, I decided that mailing it in would be my best bet. :mad:

Same here, once we opened up the DME we found that the chip was solder in, not in a socket. That's where we stopped, SW will upgrade the 2K to an 8K 28 pin which is the same as an "88" and "89" for a small fee.

I'm not sure what the advantages are to the largest capacity...

Sorry for my misunderstanding...I have a G50 and had no problem removing the DME box to install my SW chip. Maybe the 88's & 89's are different:D

rjb, Where in cal are you, I Have a 89 cab that I have rechipped 3 times and I don,t pull no stinking seat'

No need to remove the seat in any year 3.2 (unless you have some fixed racing seat) The later cars with the electric seats have less vertical clearance because of the motors, but it's still doable with the right socket. Slide the seat all the way back and upwards for electric seats. Use any standard 10mm deep socket and a standard ratchet wrench to remove the 4 nuts. Almost all deep sockets are 2" long, exactly the length tall enough to clear the DME case, but still be short enough to clear the seat motors.

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0

http://s7.sears.com/is-viewers/dhtml...s/blankimg.gif