tail light screw

[yngwie1]

Okay, so I bought new seals to put around my taillight covers...I got one out and replaced the seal without any issues. The other one has cost me two hours of heartache. Here is the problem:

The screws that hold the assembly in both have a good phillips head on them that the screwdriver grips without trouble. I start to unscrew them and all is well until the screws start to come out and "pop" right back into place. The thread just isn't continuing to bite into whatever the screw is going into. Does this make sense? I turn say 1/4 turn to loosen, the screw begins to come out and then "pop" it is reset to its original position. Both screws are doing this. Has anyone else had this happen and what should I do? Do I have to drill the whole darn screw out? If so, what kind of bit do you recommend?

Thanks,
Patrick

[Kroggers]

Hi Patrick, when I did mine, I found that on one side the PO had replaced the original screws with a new bolt at the back. reach a hand in behind from under the car (and with some help) see if there is a bolt on the back that is turning when you turn the screw. Not sure this is your problem, but it was mine - took a long time to figure it out

[randywebb]

I think these may need to have a bent U shaped piece of sheet metal ("speed nut") added - pull the screw or push from behind and see how things look.

[baldman]

See if you can apply a constant light pressure "out" while you unscrew them.

I haven't had this happen on a car yet, but I've had it happen on other things. There are a few stripped threads and when you reach them the natural "in" pressure of the light cover pushes the screw back in.

[yngwie1]

Yes, it is due to a few stripped threads I believe. I have tried holding constant pressure outwards to the tail light assembly as i unscrew, but that didn't help. I then put a vice-grip onto the screw head and pulled outwards as I turned the screw, but nada. Seems I am screwed right now, pun intended. Another day bring new patience I suppose. :-) Thanks for your replies. It at least lets me know that I am on the right road.

[carnutzzz]

Sigh... this has been covered many times. Don't forget the search function.

I posted this how-to after I had the same dilemna and no one had any real solutions:

1. Apply blue masking tape to all painted surfaces around the housing (especially bumper)
2. Drill out screws with titanium bit
2.5 Remove drainplug (mine broke)
3. Carefully pull housings toward you
4. Use compressed air to blow away 9 lbs of boulders and grit
5. Use water hose if no compressed air
6. Bend half of retaining clip enough so you can remove the "cage" and nut from the fender tab.
7. Slide new #8 U-nut (find at any auto parts store) onto tab
8. Shine flashlight around inside body cavity and inspect for rust or debris.
9. Clean outside edges of housing of all old gasket.
10. Slide housing back into place and practice fit with #8 screws (checking U-nut alignment)
11. Unscrew and carefully pull housings toward you
12. Wrap new gasket around housings (helps to enlist a friend)
13. Slide back into place.
14. Screw into place watching for gasket binding on any surfaces
15. Remove all bulbs and inspect/replace.
16. Carefully screw-in new lens- not very tight! They can crack easy!
17. Remove blue tape.

Hope this helps!

[yngwie1]

Thanks for the advice. I did a search, but found nothing. The search here isn't as robust as I would like.

I was afraid I'd have to drill out the screw. Good advice on the blue tape. I used a towel placed over the bumper last time (on the side that did come loose), but tape will be better. I could not believe the amount of stuff inside there!

Patrick

[carnutzzz]

Patrick- no worries on the search, can be tough to find what you want sometimes.

I actually used blue tape, and laid a towel on the bumper. I found that wetting the towel helped keep it stuck to the bumper as well.

Drilling the screws wasn't really all that hard- maybe took just a few minutes to get through each head that was stuck. Once the head pops-off the assembly will come right out. A titanium bit is a must.

I think the most important thing is to take your time, and don't scratch the paint!

[Zeke]

Originally posted by carnutzzz
Sigh...

That usually wakes me up........

this has been covered many times. Don't forget the search function.

I posted this how-to after I had the same dilemna and no one had any real solutions:.......

So, I did an search for "tail+light+screw" and one thread came up here

Here's what I read there from you, "Is there a solution to getting past the binding? Liquid Wrench doesn't seem to help."

*sigh*

It would be rather helpful if you pointed the way.

BWTM. I didn't go to this trouble just to be ornery. What does one do if the screw turns under the pressure of the drill bit?

Well, one answer is to reach around with a rag and apply some press to the back off the housing hoping to catch the spinning part.

But, what if the car has a fender mounted oil cooler preventing you from reaching behind?

Us a high speed air drill motor and hope to overpower the tendency of the screw to spin, or out spin it. Try drilling at different angles. Not too good for your bit, but sometimes one has to comsume tools to meet the objectve.

And then there's always the Dremmel.........