![]() |
|
|
|
Slippery Slope Victim
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brooklyn, NY USA
Posts: 4,389
|
![]()
After a three week down time with a blood clots in the leg, I have some time to devout to the SC project.
My son picked up a ducktail spoiler. Tha question is.....what is the best method of removing the old paint from the tail, it looks to be enamel. Is aircraft stripper too strong? Update on the 'lil SC. Seine shifter upgrade installed. Euro H4's in. Rear center reflector to recieve paint. Rear bumper welded / filled, just need to paint Paint code resolved, #132 Ivory from the early '70's on an '80. Next....ductail install, front bumper change for ? Most importantly....930 Turbo brakes all around! Rear calipers go to VCI today for machining.......oh yeah! Best to all, Mike
__________________
MikeČ 1985 M491 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
I'm no expert, but I would investigate media blasting.
Mike
__________________
Mike 1976 Euro 911 3.2 w/10.3 compression & SSIs 22/29 torsions, 22/22 adjustable sways, Carrera brakes |
||
![]() |
|
Stahlwerks.com
|
For fiberglass, strip by hand. Chemicals will get trapped in the glass. Media blasting will find every pinhole in the glass, or make more, requiring days and days of filling and sanding.
Use a DA with 180 grit, or a jitterbug sander and just take it down by hand. Stop when you just start to see the gel coat through the primer, then take the last coat off with a sanding block and maybe even wet sand it.
__________________
John Helgesen Stahlwerks.com restoration and cage design "Honest men know that revenge does not taste sweet" |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Sun Valley Idaho
Posts: 91
|
At the very least DO NOT use chemicals. They will break into the jell coat of the glass and you can end up with a ball fiber glass. I'd go through the pain of doing it by hand. If using media blasting use walnut shells, all other materials will contaminate the glass by filling the small pours. Good Luck Captain R.B.
__________________
More is better and too much is JUST enough |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,771
|
What they said or go the reverse; build it up. You can thoroughly degrease the unit and sand the paint smooth and flat with somehting like 320 for a faster cut. Then shoot it generously with polyester primer. You can block sand it from there as the 2-part poly is a high-build primer and tough as nails.
It is porous, though. You will want to use a sealer before painting. Hope the clot thing is gone forever. That's scary. All the best to you, --Zeke |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 114
|
Thanks for the advice fellas, pics to follow soon.
Yeah, this leg thing is a pain in the A$$! The worst part is.....the doc won't let me drive! Leg can't stay down for more than 15 min at a time. The good part is, I'm still able to work a little on the SC. 15 min up then 20 min with leg elevated. Painted the rear bumper today, hope tio install tomorrow. Regards, Mike My son and I share the same computer, so if I forget to sign in....it comes up with his name.
__________________
Mike Serrone Jr. 2008 Candy White 2DR GTI DSG :: 1980 SC (Father/Son Track Toy) ///BrooklynAutoRennen | Rudtner's Racing Group | Tyrolsport |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: chicago
Posts: 403
|
there is a chemical paint stripper made just for fiberglass. check with your local paint suppliers.
|
||
![]() |
|