Stubborn chain ramp
 

I'm doing an upgrade to Carerra tensioners on the old E's 2.0 liter. I am working in an unheated garage, so it is about 25 degrees F. I have started on the left side, wedged the chain so it could not slip on the cam sprocket. No problem with the new/used tensioner and idler wheel, but..
I'm doing a chain guide replacement 'while I'm in there', but cannot get the guide off the studs. Our host's Tensioner upgrade article advises ," The chain ramps pull off of their mounting posts, and the new ones simply snap on." I have tried pulling with pliers and prying with a small 'L' shaped tool with no luck. I think the problem is temperature related. ie: the plastic is just too stiff to 'pop off' the mounting posts. I am about to try a heat gun to warm up the plastic ramp in an attempt to get it to come free of its posts. Does this sound like the right track?
Please note, I am working with the outboard left side guide. I know I have to remove bolts to do the inboard ones (holding on to the tapered ends of the guides while trying to fit the new ones should be fun)
Thanks for any advice.
Les

THis will be a destructive process so don't be afraid to kill the chain ramp by prying on it hard, I just did.
If you have a new ramp in your hand, you can look at one of the two holes to see that by using a screw driver to slightly pry apart the two tangs, you can pull out the ramp. Cold is a problem.

Thanks.
I am a bit concerned about the force exerted upon the mounting posts. While I was pulling on the ramp with pliers, I was pulling the car toward me (still in neutral from rotating the crank to TDC).
I'll take a closer look at the new ramps. Sometimes, I've found, the smartest thing to do is to just walk away from the problem and think about it. Not too often does one get to post about working on an engine in sub-freezing weather.
Wish me luck.
Les

The studs screw in and then they epoxy the back ends. They will take some abuse.

Thanks Yelcab1,
A little bit of heat from a heat gun did the trick. Once the plastic got up to what could be considered normal 'room temp', they popped off as advertised. It turns out the new guides weren't needed, as the 'old ones show no wear, but they were cheap. I suspect they were replaced when the PO had lock collars installed on the mechanical tensioners (which failed, hence the upgrade.)
Also, I had no problems getting the inboard ramps into place on the left side. (Long fingers.)
Thanks for the advice.
Les