Fuchs refinishing - my experience (very long, lotsa biggish pictures)

[CamB]

I have just recently finished the involved process of refinishing my Fuchs to replicate the early factory style. I wanted 4 16x6" Fuchs to fit a 205/50R16 tyre under the narrow arches of the '69, and my goal was to make those 16" wheels look like the 15" wheels it would have come with. I have set out my experience below. It wasn’t perfect but I am happy with the outcome.

The start point was:



Two SC wheels in very good condition (one has been 1/2 stripped using paint stripper in that pic). I also had 2 wheels which had already been stripped and polished then repainted in the early style. They were in less good (but acceptable condition).

Step 1: Strip all dirt and paint from wheels.

Mistake 1: I got tired stripping the wheels (the 2 already refinished wheels in particular had very, very hardy paint on them). So I took all 4 wheels to a commercial paint stripper. This was an error – take the time to do it by hand. Although the photos below don’t show it, the 2 wheels which had already been polished (and were therefore no longer anodised) now have reasonably bad pitting which could not be polished out. The other two (the ones in the pic above) had little to no pitting. Presumably the stripping bath was too caustic. The pitting isn’t noticeable from a metre or two away, but it is pretty unsightly up close. No pictures – sorry – besides, they are embarrassing.

Step 2: Take paint-free wheels to the anodiser. The place I took mine wasn’t keen on alloy wheels – “they dissolve in the tank”, “we don’t do alloys”. Once I explained they were forged and factory anodised, they were happier. They were happier still when I told them to do it at my risk. In the future, Alert Anodising in Auckland, New Zealand are happy to do Fuchs alloys.

So the wheels were stripped of the anodising (thankfully without dissolving), then sent to the polisher, who polished the wheels as best they could. This was, as I alluded to above, not entirely satisfactory on the pitted wheels (pitting too deep). At this point there was nothing I could do (and no alternate supply of Fuchs in New Zealand!). So I will live with it.

Mistake 2: Basically, the finished quality of anything anodised is only going to be as good as the polishing. In my case, I should have asked for the wheels to be finished very, very carefully. They could have been better. Once again, only noticeable from up close, and less noticeable than the pitting.

Step 3: Reanodising – I asked for matt (satin) finish clear anodising. Generally there is a selection of colours and a choice of matt or gloss. Later Fuchs appear to have a gloss anodised rim (the centre is all painted black, probably over gloss anodising). Early cars appear to have matt anodised spokes and rim. Therefore I chose matt, and was pretty glad it looks how I want.

After anodising, they looked like this (a good one, without any pitting):



Cost to this point was about NZ$400 (US$200) – NZ$100 for de- and reanodising, NZ$300 for polishing and NZ$100 for paint stripping (waste of money....). Not too expensive.

Step 4: Paint! After much deliberation I decided to paint to part way up the rim (as on the early wheels) rather than to the end of the spokes (as on the SC and Carrera - see first pic). This is personal choice. I used Würth matt black high temperature paint, which I was assured was actually more like satin black. It is, fortunately. It is definitely expensive for a can of spray paint (NZ$30).

So, you have to mask the wheel. Rather than explain with lots of words, I have lots of pics. First I cleaned the wheel with Prepsol (wax and grease remover). Then I started masking the spokes with electrical tape because it is easy to form to the curves:



And I went right around like this (time consuming – you gotta be reasonably careful).



Then I masked the rest of the wheel, once again taking my time around the rim (about 7 or 8mm up the rim, this time with blue painters tape). I taped behind the spokes so I wouldn’t get overspray (with masking tape – I spent about NZ$10 on tape – big spender!). I am too lazy to replicate the factory finish on the backside of the wheel, so it remains bare anodised aluminium. This will mean you can see bare aluminium through the wheel spokes – hopefully it will look ok. Masking is time consuming – about 3/4 of an hour for the first one (probably only 1/2 an hour for the 4th one...).

[CamB]

So the wheels are fully masked up and ready for paint.

The wheels were cleaned with Prepsol again, and painted by none other than NZ Spray King and Pelicanite Matt Smith (I am crap at painting, and he really is very good). The Würth paint sprays very nicely. It would have been better to have 2 cans, but we just had enough. Each wheel had 3 coats.



Finally, the masking was peeled off very carefully about 20 mins after painting (so it is touch dry but not totally dry). Leaving...



I was hugely relieved after the first one was done and it looked good! Generally, I took my time – I actually masked and painted two on the Saturday and two on Sunday, rather than all in one go.

Here is a picture of all 4 wheels. The lighting is perfect to ensure that, with the picture as small as it is, no blemishes can be seen! In all seriousness, the paint is almost perfect, only the stripping and polishing process has meant that I am not entirely satisfied.



I am definitely looking forward to putting them on the car... although paying for tyres is gonna suck (the last set I bought were H rated 195/60R15). I will post pics when they go on, but that isn’t likely to be for another month.

Final tip – apparently when you mount the wheels, the lug nuts try to crack and lift the paint where they contact it. I will either sand out the lug nut holes or come up with another solution to try and avoid this.

[Wayne 962]

Very nice job...

-Wayne

[GeorgeK]

CAm,
These are very nice.
Indeed you will have to file the edge of the holes for the lugs BEFORE tightening them. Ask me how I know...
I did the same processus on a set of 6 and 7X15 from a 911R, but I had to do all the work to factory appearance, and the wheels were sandblasted at som point before I got them. Even pro tennis players don't get epicondylitis like I had....
Here the final product:

GeorgeK

[makaio]

Nice job cam!

Looks very good!

[Reg]

Great pictures and tips on the electrical tape! Thanks!!

[poorsha]

Thanks Cam.
I am just starting to do the same size wheels for my 74. Your article will definately help. 16" wheels look great finished as early style.
George, I also read your article a while back and a big thanks to you too.

[MBAtarga]

Nice job as well.

I do have a recommendation for others considering the "mask and paint" route, as I went through this just six months ago. I used automobile stripe tape where Cam used the electrical tape, as it is more flexible and pliable. Buy something on the order of 3/16 width and apply it to where you want to mask off. Then use normal masking tape,etc and overlap the striping tape.

[Kiwi912]

I agree a GREAT job!!!

Cam what paint stripper did you use? Tergo?

I'm looking at doing this at some stage, your article is a great help.

Cheers
One day my car will run!

[JonT]

Dumb question--I thought polishing them made a chrome-like finish?

Tip for the lug nut holes--a Dremel may be the perfect tool for removing the paint within them.

[Matt Smith]

The polishing does make them like 'chrome', and that's the base for the anodising. The shinier the initial polishing, the better the anodising, but anodising itself is NOT like chrome. It's dull and hard (but pretty).

Electrical tape definately has the upper hand in the spoke masking. I masked my wheels with 3/16 auto masking tape, but Cam's idea (or whoever he stole it from ) was heaps easier.

Kelvin- your 912 will indeed breathe life again. They always do! Remember that stricken silver 911 on the side of the Waterview exit that you came to the rescue with? IT LIVED TO TELL THE TALE!
Belated and public thanks for the help. Do you still have that excellent Tandori-baked Oval window hanging around?

[CamB]

Thanks for the kind words.

I don't have pics, but the wheels were polished (almost like chrome) before the matt anodising - it takes the edge off the shine. As I said, this was what I wanted. I have had my window frames on the '75 polished and gloss anodised and they look like chrome. No pics right now.

I used the CRC spray can paint stripper - it worked fine on the original wheels but didn't even shift the paint on the already refinished wheels. Just don't give up - better hours of tedium (sp?) than long term pain when they are pitted...

And thanks to George for his original write up - they inspired me to do this correctly. Anodising isn't too scary (I mean, it is just handing over money and a few discussions), and I hope the wheels will now last for 20+ years with only a vaseline tub for care (oooh-err).

[Bill Douglas]

Wow Cam, the wheels look good. Great job and nice presentation for us boys.

After about a day on the first wheel with Turgo strip and your recommendation, the CRC stripper (worked beter), I gave up. I now have one slightly yellow wheel (it's the origional primerI can't get off porperly) and three brown wheels on a silver car - it looks kinda funky

[Jim T]

Cool job! With that paint format, they do look like 15 inchers.

[Two Oh]

I have had my window frames on the '75 polished and gloss anodised and they look like chrome.


Cameron, What's the method for for "glossy" anodising.
as done to your window frames.
Thanks!

BTW, You do GOOD work. You should be very proud.

[CamB]

Thanks! As I said though, there some (easily avoided) pitfalls... polish well!!

The gloss anodising is something you ask the anodiser for. Basically, the way I understand is that a piece of shiny aluminium (ie, looking like chrome) will have a satin finish after clear matt anodising and a glossy/chrome finish after clear gloss anodising.

I suggest finding a nice anodiser and talking to them about it - even getting them to show you before and after of each alternative.

[SprintStar]

Originally posted by CamB
Then I started masking the spokes with electrical tape because it is easy to form to the curves:

Hi CamB! Is there a rule on how much to mask? And how much to leave exposed? On my Fuchs (bad job by PO), the black paint reached all the way to the spokes.

Thanks.

Sprint.

[MY83SC]

Looks GREAT!!!

[jpnovak]

Spectacular!! I love it.

[CamB]

Thanks again guys.

I don't really know the answer to this:

Hi CamB! Is there a rule on how much to mask? And how much to leave exposed? On my Fuchs (bad job by PO), the black paint reached all the way to the spokes.

The factory apparently dipped the wheels in paint. I masked and painted mine to a level that looked about "right" (and tried to make the masking line flat, as if it had been dipped). But remember, I did this on 16" wheels (the factory stopped the "star pattern" painting while still making 15s.

I was also too lazy to mask them again and paint the back side.

I got what I wanted - they are semi-indistinguishable from 15", but I get to run 50 series tyres. Well, from a distance anyway. Up close it is pretty obvious...