i got a free 75 once. it cost me 7k to make it run. and when it ran well, it was great. it sounds alot cleaner than the one you are look at, for one, i had no rust. my next door neighbor bought a fairly clean 75 for 4k, and flipped it for 6. that car also sounds better than your potential. i would pass and wait. after all is said and done, if you bought that car, we may have to talk you off the ledge. it aint that easy or cheap. start with a better platform.

plus you dont want to buy a car from some one that has/uses a mechanic that thinks a shakey car at 85mph is NORMAL! at that speed, things are just supposed to get interesting. keep looking.

I agree on the 85 MPH thing...mine is like air at 85 MPH and almost gets smoother the closer to 100 MPG I get.

I'd also pass, and wait and save.....good deals always come along with someone needing to sell a car that has had a bunch of $$ dumped into it.

The engine appears to be the only redeaming factor...and Lukes and Shoreman was indeed one of the BEST 356 and early 911 shops in California....Ritchie Lukes was a great guy, a master mechanic,...never heard a bad thing about anything they ever did. Mentioning a Lukes and Shoreman engine in an ad for a car certainly gives the car some credibility in my opinion...but again, its the ONLY redeaming factor on this car...so it's a parts car.

E

Thanks guys for all your advice. I may still go and see the car and drive it -- I really do want a 911 (or 912) not a 944.. even if it means saving..
I am also going to see this 911SC targa /salvage title for 6k..

BTW I saw that same article in Excellence on buying an older Porsche--
strategies and I loved it! I wish it was longer and/or talked more about dealing with rust etc..

If you can try and concentrate on a 76 or new car as it will have a galvanized body and better for rust prevention in those critical spots. Get or borrow a copy of the Porsche buyers guide as that will help you look for weak spots/flaws in a given year. Information is your friend.
A 912 could be an option but look for a 76E, at least it will have a rustproofed body. Good huntinmg. Looking is frustrating but it is also fun. Patience.

Go look at the '74 - & some other such junk.
Cast a critical eye on it and really poke around.

Then, you'll get an idea of what to stay away from -

5k isn't going to buy a nice driver, only an entry price for a driver..to get a driver, ready to go, you'll need to spend closer to 8-10k. a '74 is a good car, as far as the mid-year cars go..they have the more-desireable exhaust, the 7:31 ring and pinion (quicker off the start), and don't have thermal reactors, which contributed the most to the mid-year car problem of head studs pulling out of the softer magnesium case (the later 3.0 liter motor is aluminum). all that said, rust is the big question here. all the above comments are true..rust could be a major deal-breaker..you have to check that out or find someone qualified who can tell you what it would take to make the car right in terms of rust..maybe it can be..it's always nice to see someone 'save' a mid year car (speaking as an owner of one). the vibration could be something as simple as tire pressure or unbalanced tires..you won't know unless you check it out. a ppi is mandatory here. you might find the problems can be addressed and might be able to get the car for a really low price if you just really want to get into a 911. the owner might let it go for between 3-4k, but be prepared to double that in no time. personally, i hope it can work out and you can put some love into a mid-year car that needs it. i'm wearing a flame suit, so i'm cool..flame on, bad boys.. ;)
ryan

found these on cars.com just now. There are several pics of the 69 Targa on cars.com. make sure you check the box for 1983 and older cars. Only about 60 show up so it's easy to find these.

1976 Porsche 912 E
$4,500
Get a CARFAX Record Check
Mileage 25
Engine 2.0L fuel injected 4 cylinders
Exterior Color Red

1976 PORSCHE 912E classic 911 look with 4 cyl mpg, needs some tlc (drivers seat torn,air ducts need work)new clutch,alarm,cd, guards red #915nte $4,500, has carburated 34mm webers, no dents anywhere, no rust anywhere, all european style lights work, all hatches stay open,new sachs clutch with zero miles, 16'' fuch rims, guards red paint still shines nicely, exterior complete inside needs detail work, used to be daily driver, has been non op for 2 years, I also have a 2.0 fuel injected volkwagon bus motor that can be installed in this car, which delivered a combined (freeway and city)mpg of 25 miles per gallon 323-316-6584
_
Listing Date: January 20, 2006



1969 Porsche 911 S
$3,700
get a CARFAX Record Check
Mileage 100,000
Cylinders 4 Cylinders
Body Style Convertible
Transmission Manual
Doors 2
Condition Fair
Drive Train 2WD
VIN
Exterior Color Red
Listing Date December 26, 2005
Interior Color Black



Features: Bucket Seats, Leather Interior


More Information About This Seller
Individual Seller
Seller: ART
Daytime Phone: 714-528-1924
Evening Phone: 714-528-1924
Vehicle_Location:_placentia,_CA

My first 911 experience was in a meticulously maintained european '74 and that experience (back in 1985) stuck with me big-time. I'd hunt for a clean chassis, and don't be afraid of the 75,76,77 cars either, especially if you don't live in CA -- you're going to get into that engine / tranny thing at some point (one of the most satisfying joys of 911 ownership) -- if you can skip any of the rust / bondo issues right off the bat, you'll be MUCH happier when you sink that 6-9 grand into a full engine / tranny refresh. Porshces are tough cars -- get one that hasn't been stacked and you''re on your way. I think the bodies started getting galvanized in '75 (check with the true Pelican heads on this), and that's a great feature to have.

I bought a car similar to the one you're looking at, straight 74' 911, engine issues, 2nd gear issues and a little rust although the rust was somewhat minor. The guy wanted $6000.00, then 5 then 4 then 3, I offered $2000.00 and he took it. I figured I'd learn a little and have fun in the garage tinkering if all else failed I could part it out and get my money back. Anyway, rebuilt the engine myself with help from a local Porsche guru, the 2nd gear was simply a linkage adjustment. The rust is your worst enemy on an early 911, the rust on mine was fairly minor, I would check that out real good before you buy. Major rust is simply not repairable. Good luck!

Harry

Update!!! I went and saw the car and drove it. Here are the pros, cons
and some pics...

1. the car was not red but some sort of orangish-brown.
2. the clearcoat was flaking everywhere, and some areas of the car had some dents or blemishes in the paint, but not visible rust from the outside.
3. Inside you can see rust in the floorpan of the cabin and the carpet was moist. When you look by the spare there is rust there and one
pinhole (the size of a pen) that wen through--not sure if that hole is
from the factory for drainage, or what.
4. the front spoiler was pretty beatup (license plate hanging off)
5. Engine was clean and made a nice sound and pulled strong.
It had a gold plate on it --don't know if it was upgraded to more
than a 2.7 when it was rebuilt or what (see photos).
6. The issue with 2nd gear is that it pops out about 1/3 of the time
when driving. You have to hold it there while releasing clutch. He
has been driving it this way for a while.
7. The issue with the front end shaking was wrong. The steering
wheel shakes forward and back slightly, and we tried to get it
to do this at 90 MPH and couldnt so he revised that from 85mph
to 100mph. So at 100MPH the steering wheel shakes forward
and back.
8. The inside was awful ---ripped seats, ripped headliner, puffy
visors, cracked dash. Some of the gauges (oil pressure guage)
appeared to bounce while driving.
9. On price --he wants $5,500 or as close to it as possible. He
may or may not bargain once an actual offer is made.

http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/5...48small0ti.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/4...49small9ne.jpg
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3...50small0vl.jpg
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/2...51small5oe.jpg
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/8...52small9qm.jpg
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6...53small9ch.jpg
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/8...61small3al.jpg
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/8...62small0fm.jpg
http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/8...66small8qi.jpg
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/1...70small1gt.jpg

More pics to come..

Thanks Marv.

That's a $3,000 car......fit for a sadist

I bought my 74 for $5K and it was in way better physical shape than that. My interior was near perfect and exterior was nice. 3 years later I now have 18K in the car. I can see you spending a lot to sort that car out.
Pat

I think he realizes it is worth substantially less than 5.5k.. he talks about selling it for the price of the rebuilt engine. So what is a rebuilt engine (2.7L) with 80k miles run for? (10,000 was spent on the rebuild, 8 years ago at lukes & shorman)

more pics..
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/5...72small0xx.jpg

http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/3...59small1dl.jpg
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/2...60small2rt.jpg
[img]http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/1032/img1266small0mj.jpg[img]

I would think a running 2.7 CIS engine w/ 80,000 miles on it would get $2500-$3500 complete (assuming compression is still good & its pretty leak free).

I can't believe anyone wouuld buy that engine for $5500- seems pretty hopeful on the sellers part.

It looks like it leaks some oil. Also the heat exchangers are rusted & need replacement. Good used early heat exchangers are probably $400 a pair. Stainless steel replacements are about $900 pair.

Don't do it. You can buy a better 911 surely for that price.

Honestly, run from that car. You'll hate yourself for buying it.
We'll revoke your Pelicanship if ya do, and give you the name:

Marquis De Sade :p

Ditto

I might not even take it if it is free. It would cost too much to bring it to good shape. Don't even think about it.

Does anyone else have to tell you to stay away?