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Fuel pump help please...

Its one of those crappy moment when I tried to disconnect the fuel hose from the pump during removal - I broke off one of the terminals of the pump

Has anyone tried / needed to repair similar situation?

It looks like the terminal is screwed into the pump so perhaps I can extract it by un-screwing it & replace with a new stud?

Any help would be appreciated.

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Old 04-20-2009, 05:00 AM
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Never done that, but I have my dead Bosch CIS pump on the bench. If I can remove a terminal I'll pop it in the mail to ya. I'll just have to remember that I need to look at it tonight... If it is what you need...

-Michael
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Old 04-20-2009, 05:12 AM
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That would be great Michael. Thanks!
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Old 04-20-2009, 05:49 AM
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The pump most likely has different sizes for positive and negative like M4 + M5 ??

I don't know if you can just unscrew the pins from the body, never tried it.
If the pump is very old, consider getting a new one because replacing it can be a hassle especially when it quits away from home.
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Old 04-20-2009, 06:24 AM
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The pump is quite new - I replaced it a few years ago...

And yes, the two pins are of different size. I broke the smaller one.

It broke flushed to the bottom of the terminal so I may need to get a screw extractor to help. And also thinking about breaking/prying the plastic protector/surround from the terminal to see if I can get more leverage.
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Old 04-20-2009, 06:55 AM
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Well, the terminal is connected internally and extracting it will most likely destroy that connection and do other damage.

Let someone do the extraction on a BROKEN pump to see what happens.
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD!
1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats.
Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ".

Last edited by Gunter; 04-20-2009 at 08:32 AM..
Old 04-20-2009, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunter View Post
Well, the terminal is connected internally and extracting it will most likely destroy that connection and do other damage.

Let someone do the extraction on a broken pump to see what happens.
Gee thanks Gunter

I had a brand new Oil Pressure sender with the spade on it. My wiring harness had a spade so I thought to myself that I should just remove the spade on the sensor and be good to go... went to remove the nut and the whole threaded part shears off with the internal wire still attached...... this was a brand new part so I have little hopes of success... but I'll try.

-Michael
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:22 AM
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To save a nearly new pump, I would carefully try and drill/tap into the broken terminale-pin to fit a home-made new connector instead of extracting the broken terminal.
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1980 Carrerarized SC with SS 3.2, LSD & Extras. SOLD!
1995 seafoam-green 993 C2, LSD, Sport seats.
Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ".
Old 04-20-2009, 08:35 AM
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I would not solder anything on it either... heat might dislodge the internal connections

-Michael
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Old 04-20-2009, 09:04 AM
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Ok, so you wont be unscrewing ANY terminal from a Bosch fuel pump...



Looks like a hex rod in a hex hole with a little bit of thread on the end... I grabbed the blue part with some large pliers and tried to unscrew it... well.. blue bit snapped right off and now you see the problem.

So, I revise my recommendation... drill and tap a small bit or solder something on the end...

Good luck!

-Michael
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Old 04-20-2009, 05:53 PM
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Thanks a million Michael...

I was just getting ready to get to the garage to try un-screw it but looks like drill & tap or solder is way to go. The thread on mine is broken flush to the hex rod

My only concern about soldering is conductivity... The pump draws quite a lot of current. If I want to solder something, I'll probably cut a M4 screw and solder it on. So the question is: will the small contact point be sufficient?
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Old 04-20-2009, 05:58 PM
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I would drill it, tap it, put a spade on and screw it in. If that does not work, buy a new pump. Sorry, but I do not think there is a better answer than that. If you are in the market for a new pump there is a thread here that will help:

Interchangablility of Fuel Pumps

This one has all the Bosch pump specs in it. Nice:
82SC fuel pump question

Good luck!

-Michael
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Old 04-20-2009, 07:33 PM
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FP terminals.........

Quote:
Originally Posted by euro911sc View Post
Ok, so you wont be unscrewing ANY terminal from a Bosch fuel pump...



Looks like a hex rod in a hex hole with a little bit of thread on the end... I grabbed the blue part with some large pliers and tried to unscrew it... well.. blue bit snapped right off and now you see the problem.

So, I revise my recommendation... drill and tap a small bit or solder something on the end...

Good luck!

-Michael
Michael,

Those threaded terminals for the fuel pump are one-piece unit. They are not threaded as they appear. Attempting to unscrew those thread terminals will only cause to break if you force it. It is aluminum and so easy to tap a new + terminal. Good luck.

Tony
Old 04-20-2009, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hobieboy View Post
Thanks a million Michael...

I was just getting ready to get to the garage to try un-screw it but looks like drill & tap or solder is way to go. The thread on mine is broken flush to the hex rod

My only concern about soldering is conductivity... The pump draws quite a lot of current. If I want to solder something, I'll probably cut a M4 screw and solder it on. So the question is: will the small contact point be sufficient?
Forget the solder. Heat will do damage and it won't hold anyway.
Drill and tap for M4 and install a brass or SS 4mm screw.
You'll need a drill press. A hand-held drill motor is not ideal.
Carefully clamp the pump onto the press table so it points straight up.
File the broken pin flush, then use a center punch to make a punch mark in the center.
Carefully drill with the correct drill for M4 because you don't know how deep the hex on the pin is.
Tap with #2 - M4 first to get a start, then use the bottom tap to finish.
Insert a long M4 brass or SS until it bottoms out; tighten lightly.
Now cut off the head with a hack-saw and file the burr.
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Abstract Darwin Ipso Facto: "Life is evolutionary random and has no meaning as evidenced by 7 Billion paranoid talking monkeys with super-inflated egos and matching vanity worshipping illusionary Gods and Saviors ".
Old 04-21-2009, 06:51 AM
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So I successfully drilled & tapped a M4 screw into where the post was
A question - how could I secure the screw so that it won't come loose due to vibration?
I thought about loctite red but not sure if it is conductive or not
Any suggestions?

thanks!
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:04 PM
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If you have enough thread I might put a tiny dab of locktite on there. Or you could use a lock washer.

-Michael
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Old 05-06-2009, 06:48 AM
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small lock washer and BLUE loctite (not red).
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Old 05-06-2009, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidrock View Post
small lock washer and BLUE loctite (not red).
Hi, why blue and not red loctite? Its the stud that I'm going to secure which should not be removed ever...

As for lock washer - if its for the wire to the stud, then yes understand
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Old 05-06-2009, 01:59 PM
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OK, I must've misunderstood. If it is for the stud, then yes to the red loctite.
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Old 05-06-2009, 02:59 PM
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cool... used red loctite, put the pump back. And now pray that it doesn't vibrate off

But the engine is out at the moment so it will be a while before I can really test it

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Old 05-07-2009, 05:40 AM
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