VW Engine stand

[1fastredsc]

Has anyone ever broken one of those vw yokes while supporting a 911 engine? I got one off of ebay for like 10 bucks or something brand new, and it fits onto the rear case studs like a glove.

[5speed]

The factory engine fixture is a "p201" tool. There have been two versions that I know have seen. The early one has four arms which was also used by VW.

The later had five arms and looks like it can withstand much more torque. The was an early two arm stand for VW's but I don't think there were ever for porsche's. Not enough steel to holdup the engine.


I personally have not seen a broken/bent fixture, but there are members who have seen it. Do a quick search on "p201 arm" I think there was a thread about cheaper engine stands.

[5speed]

Opps forgot to post pic of the two arm VW only engine fixture.

[real550A]

I wouldn't trust just those two tube welds to hold a Porsche 6 cyl. engine with accessories. Maybe the shortblock, while you add P&C.
The downside is too great, if it doesn't work!

[Cornpanzer]

I dont trust the cheap VW stands to hold my VW motor!
That 911 engine is heavier than many V8's. Unless you want to bounce test your engine, I would put the VW stand on ebay

[1fastredsc]

Well then what do you guys suggest? There is no way in hell that i am spending 300 bucks plus on a damn engine stand, no offense pelican, but that is just plain ridiculous.

[buster73]

You could weld some additional support tubes and reinforcement brackets to the VW piece. You also can support the rear end (pulley side) of the engine with an additional post (even a piece of 2x4) to reduce the load on the holder.

[Cdnone1]

I rebuilt a 356 engine on that stand bolted to a sturdy work bench but I sure wouldn't put a 6 on it.
Steve

[Danskman]

Originally posted by 1fastredsc
Well then what do you guys suggest? There is no way in hell that i am spending 300 bucks plus on a damn engine stand, no offense pelican, but that is just plain ridiculous.

I'll loan you my P201, if you like. I've used it once, and it's in perfect shape. Had my engine on it for about 3-4 months in 2003. You pay shipping (it's heavy) both ways, and BE SURE TO SEND IT BACK. PM me your name and address and I'll send it on its way.

[5speed]

1fastredsc, which VW fixture did you have the two or four arm fixture? If it is the two arm then don't use it to hold up an porsche engine. If you have the four arm fixture it may work if it is a factory piece. I have seen it being used in some older independant porsche service shops. It has mentioned that the four armed fixtures can bend if they are non-factory reproductions. Pelicans does offer a adapter ring that bolts to a 'normal' four arm engine stand. You'll have to rig something to space it farther out to have room to work on the clutch and flywheel. The factory 5 arm p201 is the best tool when you are working on the later engines. I would take danskman on his offer.

[Motorhead-45]

Originally posted by 1fastredsc
Well then what do you guys suggest? There is no way in hell that i am spending 300 bucks plus on a damn engine stand, no offense pelican, but that is just plain ridiculous.

You wouldn't spend $300.00 to support your $10,000.00 Porsche engine?

If you already own a generic engine stand opt for the Porsche adapter ring sold here on Pelican. It's a suitable safe alternative and less pricey at about half as much as the P201.

[Early_S_Man]

The cheap, two-arm VW stands aren't even recommended for Type IV engines, so go figure ...

Of course, with $200 - $300 or so worth of fabbing & welding mods ... it might just be up to holding a 911SC engine ... wouldn't recommend a Turbo, though!

[sammyg2]

Last year I purchased a used P201 stand on evilbay for around $125.

After I was done with it I sold it to someone at D&G swap meet for just about what I paid for it, I think it was Zeke but I have CRS.
My point? Once in a while you can find deals on these things ,but even if you have to pay retail you can recoup most of your investment.
So what if you spend $300 on a new 201 stand, you can sell it when you are done for at least $200, net cost to you for a quality tool and peace on mind is only $100 (or possibly less).

Plis even if the VW stand was up to holding the engine, I'm not sure the case is up to it.
I would hate to see a nice Porsche engine case get broken.

[safe]

I used the adapter ring. Worked fine!
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Tools_folder/enginestand-mainely.jpg

[1fastredsc]

I have the two arm, i guess i'll have to sell it on ebay and find something else.

[SLANTNOSE6]

Here are some quick and dirty adapters, that use all 4 studs on the case, it worked great. (Very ridged) when I had removed most of the weight and was ready to split the case, I simply removed one side.

[88-diamondblue]

Here's a picture of the adaptor ring on an engine stand. This stand has had Chevy 454 big block motors bolted to it so the 911 was no problem. You can sell the ring for not much less than you pay for it when you are done.

[jim72911t]

I think it was Warren or JW who convinced me to just go ahead and buy the factory stand. After all, you are going to spend probably $4-6K on a proper rebuild if you do it yourself (I have receipts, am a machinist, and did almost everything myself), so what's another $300?

Besides, you can sell it when you're done with it, if you are so inclined.

BTW, you'll need cam tools, a couple of good torque wrenches, a dial indicator, and some other specialized tools that I can't recall off the top of my head. Oh, and Wayne's book.

All worth it, if you are a tool junkie like me.

Have fun with the rebuild,
Jim

[1fastredsc]

Originally posted by jim72911t
I think it was Warren or JW who convinced me to just go ahead and buy the factory stand. After all, you are going to spend probably $4-6K on a proper rebuild if you do it yourself (I have receipts, am a machinist, and did almost everything myself), so what's another $300?

Besides, you can sell it when you're done with it, if you are so inclined.

BTW, you'll need cam tools, a couple of good torque wrenches, a dial indicator, and some other specialized tools that I can't recall off the top of my head. Oh, and Wayne's book.

All worth it, if you are a tool junkie like me.

Have fun with the rebuild,
Jim

Oh i have all that already, i did a top end rebuild about 1.4k miles ago. But now i'm planning ahead for the possibility of what i broke being inside the case. I guess i can do what slantnose did and use all 4 until i get down to the case, then reduce it to 2 so that i can split it. Or even just put it on the workbench when it's down to the case and i'll split it open there.

[Flipseat]

I haven't had a Porsche engine up on my stand yet, but I use a factory/dealership Matra VW engine stand. I have yet to find an original pedestal (still looking) so I bolted it to my steel workbench, which I bolted to the floor. 3 concrete anchors in front and 3 in back. I could put in 6 front/6 back but I thought it to be overkill. The factory Matra yoke originally had 3 arms, but mine has had one cut off. The 3rd arm gets in the way anyways. I had a complete aircooled type 1 engine on the stand, and then I put my weight (190lbs) on it, and the only thing that flexed was the work bench. I will be welding an extra plate on the bottom of the stand for a little more durability, even though it is quite stout already. Its old and built well. The cheapie aftermarket VW stands (2 arms) are pretty cheap looking IMHO. I wouldn't even want to put a VW engine on one, although many many people do. But, I'm a sucker for originality, and tools too, so how could I settle for anything less than original factory tools? lol


btw.. I'm looking for a Matra engine stand clamp (the piece that bolts to the bench or pedestal) if anyone has one. I'd trade my vintage US 303 (I think thats the number) + cash for one. Also interested in other aircooled VW matra tools