Using a direct drive polisher to polish paint . . . any tips?
 

As I've found, a random orbital with the proper nonaggressive pads and polishes is pretty mild and risk-free.

But looking to go to the next level! Colorsanding and polishing it out.

Tried it on a trunklid, laid down some paint, 2000 grit wet sand, but the random orbital doesn't cut it to polish it out. Not compatible with the heavy cut cleaners, which seem to require 1000 or so rpm of direct drive polishing. Even the 2000 wet sand paper leaves cuts too deep for a random orbital.

So I'm going to try a direct drive with Meguire's cutting polishes and pads.

Any tips? Other than start slow and be careful? :)

Get the correct pad for each cutting polish and don 't mix the pads.

Here's my before and after shot of my BMW roof spray with a rattle can spray and polish / buff.

Before

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1138856566.jpg

After

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1138856618.jpg

really not too much to it.....mostly do not concentrate in one spot too long...esp with a "rubbing / polishing compound. Better to do too little then too much as you can always go back over it

Watch those edges!!

Like everyone else has said, start with a light compund, let the pollisher do the work and don't burn th epain by overdoing one spot too loong. Kinf of like a "wax on /wax off" motion but with a polisher -

Can't ever say that phrase and not remember the man.

RIP Mr. Miagi

I need to do this too. Any recomendations on specific polishers, pads,
compounds and where to get them???

Thanks,
Mike

I can't remember if I have the 847 or the 849. I can check when I get home. But here is a link to a good polisher. Use it on the LOWEST setting:

http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=173

Then buy the "Hook and Loop" or "hookit" type backing pad. Then the 3M rubbing and polishing pads for it. Then get the 3M imperial Hand Glaze. Lastly, put on your wax for protection.

This is just what I use.....