Oil Pressure Light

[82SuperC]

Hello:
Any advice on an oil pressure light that comes on after the engine is warmed up and at idle only. Oil pressure gauge and oil levels are all normal.

I am beginning to snoop around and leaks at the sensor is one thing I am going to look for. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

[kqw]

How's the tension on your alt. belt?

[Spede]

So a loose belt would cause this?

[turborat]

I would supect the sender unit or connection f you are certain that you have good oil pressure. If not, it could mean engine bearings are bad.

[74-911]

My '74 2.7 did the same thing then progressed to coming on randomly to being on most of the time. Oil pressure guage indicated pressure was OK and oil level was full. Changed out the oil pressure switch and problem solved. $9 part but PITA to change it.

[DG624]

I was told the oil pressure should be 1 (at the gage) for each 1,000 RPM. Can you check it at your gage?

[stealthn]

Yup what 74 said, real hard to get at the sender, could even be a loose or corroded wire, but it's worth a change.

You need long thin arms, three hands and two mirrors, good luck.

[82SuperC]

Thanks for all the advice. I will check alternator fan to be sure. At idle or at roughly 900RPM, the DRUCK pressure reads about 1 BAR. I believe that to be normal?!?!?

Is there another way to measure oil pressure instead of relying on the gauge?

I will also see about replacing the sender unit. Sounds like I'm in for some fun.

Thanks for all the advice.

[bigchillcar]

yeah..a pita job. oil pressure sender is located between the fan housing and where the a/c compressor would be if you have it..near the plastic ducting..has a wire attached to it..green i think. the oil pressure switch is back behind the fuel distributor and cis stuff..hence the need for long thin arms..three i think were mentioned would be helpful. good luck!
ryan

[DCred911SC]

You've got the same problem as I had 6 months ago. Most likey to be the sender. Cheap to replace, but not so easy to change as it is located right at the back of the engine. You need to remove the CIS Rubber boot from the top of the fuel distributor (so you can get access over the top behind), and the heater fan and ducting (so you can get round the back). You will then need a deep socket (24mm I think, but best to check) and long thin arms. I got mine out using a long extension and universal joint. Once you've got it out, the worst part is trying to get the new one threaded back in...not impossible, just tricky and fiddly.

Good luck

David