3.2 liter Seat Up/Down Switches Out

EMJ · 09:54 AM

The driver's side seat of my 88 3.2 Carerra Coupe recently had the up/down switches go out. This has been confirmed (Can't hear the motor when the up/down buttons are depressed). I don't have a repair manual yet, on order, and was thinking of ordering the switches and swapping them out this week. Not a big deal -- the seat position is just slightly off -- but I'd like to fix it if it can be done quickly.

Am I going to run into issues with removing the seat, switches, etc.? Seems it would be straight forward. Or should I wait to get my manual? I'm fairly mechanical but I haven't ever removed seats from this car and want to make sure I'll be able to remount them correctly.

Appreciate any help. Thanks a bunch!

cbeers · 02-06-2006, 10:07 AM

Ed,

I am no expert either, but the seat removal and switch work should be a breeze. I have pulled my seats a few times with no issues. Also, the switch assemblies are easy to access etc. I think if you have the new switch in hand, you can't go wrong.

Heck, even if you do, this board will save you

-Chris

jtratza · 02-06-2006, 10:10 AM

New task Ed now that the 911's not dying anymore? Congratulations on the last repair. This ones fairly easy. Just takes some manual dexterity.

Taking the seats out and putting them back in is the easy part. Its fixing the dang switch and getting it back in that was a pain for me. I did not buy new switches since a search here had enough information for me to try it with success I might add. Someone posted some great pics of repairing the switches. The contacts corrode and just need to be cleaned. Do a search. Lots will show up. I'll look to see what I saved on this and post it later. LOL

Tim Hancock · 02-06-2006, 10:15 AM

Just be careful when disassembling the switches as the interal parts tend to go everywhere when you take the switch apart for contact cleaning.

EMJ · 02-06-2006, 10:24 AM

Hey, cbeers, Tom, Thanks for the help.

And cbeers, so true about this board. Tom (jtratza), and a few others just helped me solve an intermittent shut-off problem that was driving me and my mechanics nuts for about 5 weeks. This board helped me solve the problem in 3 days! She's now running great! DME cracked joints that needed to be soldered were the ultimate problem.

I could probably live with the seat positioning as it currently is, but I figure if I could fix the issue easily, maybe I should just tackle it.

Tom, thanks for the tip on the corroded contacts. I think I'll check those before I purchase new switches. I'll do a quick search. Maybe I won't have to replace the switches after all!

EMJ · 02-06-2006, 10:26 AM

Will do. Thanks, Tim.

911 heathen · 02-06-2006, 11:54 AM

I have had 2 seat switches fail; the first time I took the seat out but second time out I simply released enough cable (cut the cable ties under the seat) for the switch to be pulled clear from the seat by a couple of inches. From there I desoldered the failed switch and then soldered back the new switch.

A 40-50 min job cut down to 15-20.

However if you are not great with a soldering iron, the of course go with removal of seat and replace the entire switch and wire harness that it is shipped with.

john walker's workshop · 02-06-2006, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 911 heathen
I simply released enough cable (cut the cable ties under the seat) for the switch to be pulled clear from the seat by a couple of inches. From there I desoldered the failed switch and then soldered back the new switch..

that's the ticket.

EMJ · 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 911 heathen
"released enough cable (cut the cable ties under the seat) for the switch to be pulled clear from the seat by a couple of inches. From there I desoldered the failed switch and then soldered back the new switch."

Great idea. Darn, if I only knew how to use a solder gun.

I'm sure I could get my hands on one. Definitely sounds like the quickest way to go if the switches need to be replaced and it isn't that the connectors are corroded.

john walker's workshop · 01:13 PM

you can also use crimp style red butt connectors. cut the wires close to the old switch and a couple of inches away from the new switch to give yourself a bit more room to work.

jtratza · 02-06-2006, 04:23 PM

John's idea works great (Which is typical of John's recommendations). I used the crimp style and it made the job much easier. I tried to solder the connections and gave up. Maybe its because I torched my thumb one year taking a shot at home plumbing some laundry room pipes at midnight and beers one year.