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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Newport
Posts: 58
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3.0 Problems
I'm having problems starting my 3.0 (CIS). The only way I can get it started is to crank the distributor all the way over and the car starts in the first crank and idles fine. But if I give it gas it bogs and doesn't rev (which I'm sure it's because the timing would be off). So once the motor is running, I try to do the timing, but the car stalls and won't restart. I did pull the plugs and they're getting spark, but they're a little moist and smell of gas. The car has sat for about a year, just FYI. The only thing I replaced so far is just the rotor, because it was worn. Anyone have any ideas of what else I can do to trouble shoot or maybe have an idea of what it may be. Thanks!
Last edited by dvdman; 02-12-2006 at 03:22 PM.. |
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02-12-2006, 03:18 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: RI
Posts: 902
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I'm guessing here. If you have to move the distributor to get it started, Maybe the advance weights in the distributor are stuck from corrosion. Or vacume advance is not working??
Does the rotor point to the notch on the distributor when #1 piston is at top dead center? And there are all my guesses for this evening....
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Silver 1980SC Euro coupe |
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02-12-2006, 04:50 PM
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: TX USA
Posts: 9,804
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Get the engine running and warmed up ... they do a plot of rpm vs. advance with a timing light. I suspect you will find a defective centrifugal advance mechanism ...
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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02-12-2006, 05:14 PM
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Location: Newport
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Ok. I checked all the above and still having the same problem. Now that the distributor is rulled out, I wonder about something else. Would the timing be off this bad and lack power because of a failed cam chain tensioner or a stretched out chain? If someone could maybe give me an idea if this is possible before I actually start digging around in the motor, that would be great. Thanks in advance.
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02-14-2006, 08:33 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Puyallup WA
Posts: 131
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I'm with the other guys. I don't think it's possible for the timing chain to stretch that much, especially if it hasn't run for a year, and if the tensioner failed, it would make a lot of noise, but it it didn't jump a tooth, the valve timing would be close to correct. If you have to retard the timing it get it to start, which I'm assuming when you say "crank the distributor all the way over" then, as mentioned by the other posers, the advance mechanism is probably stuck too far advanced, or the vacuum advance (which is really a retard on most engines) is stuck.
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'78 911SC Targa (SCWDP member #17) '74 MGB (one owner) Pickup 2013 Ford Explorer Sport 2013 VW Golf TDI |
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02-14-2006, 09:11 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Holland
Posts: 113
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Hi Dvdman,
I'm thinking of the fuelpump and the "one way valve" (hold-the- pressure-in-your-fuel-system-valve" ) which is also in your fuel system, attached to the fuel pump. Last mentioned can be stucked after several years of non running... Good luck, dick911 |
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02-15-2006, 02:32 AM
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Get CIS gauges (and a Bentley Manual if you don't have one) and check your system pressures.
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2014 Cayman S (track rat w/GT4 suspension) 1979 930 (475 rwhp at 0.95 bar) |
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02-15-2006, 02:58 AM
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1979 Porsche 930 3.4
