Motor Out - Found a real mess, how do you prevent this leak?
 

I pulled the motor and tranny to do an exploratory on a tranny noise. The motor was rebuilt 3 years ago and is still fairly clean .... in the front. This is what I found at the rear. what a freakin' mess!!!
I know that the oil pressure sending unit is notorious for leaking but damn, this thing must have leaked from day one by the looks of my tranny bellhousing.
So here's the question - is there any aftermarket fix for this mess? Obviously the factory gasket doesn't work. You cannot get back there and replace a gasket with the motor in and I'm sure not gonna drop it again just for that.

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Well, you might try prepping both sides of the paper gasket with Loctite 518 ... after sanding the bottom of the breather cover with 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper on a piece of 3/8" or thicker glass, flooded with running water, of course.

The adapter that the oil pressure switch threads into looks like it needs new sealing rings ... and careful torqueing!

The other thing you should do "while you are in there" is the oil thermostat housing O ring. It is located on the larger round thing that is almost flush with the top of the case next to the pressure sending switch in the first picture. Also, you're in there - make sure your rear main seal and pilot shaft seal are good.

EDIT: I can't see in the picture, but are you sure your problem is the pressure switch? I'd change it no matter what, cheap insurance - but my guess is that O ring.

Ditto on the O-ring. Mine went bad and had the same looking mess. Plus, your pressure switch actually looks fine from the pictures. No visable oil "on" the switch, just around the bottom.

What BeauBlues said. The pressure switch, when it does leak usually leaks between the bond from the metal to the plastic/bakelite part. BUt even though it doesn't look like it is leaking? I'd change it anyway. Like I said before, cheap insurance.

That doesn't look so bad (relatively). Like the others said, care on the installation of the crankcase breather housing and gasket, new aluminum washers. A little loctite on the mating surfaces will help too..use the thread type or the case sealing type. Don't go over board on the loctite, you only want to fill the imperfections of the mating surfaces of the metal. Generally a well installed case vent gasket won't blow that much oil. The case is not under that much pressure (relatively), otherwise Porsche would have engineered a better seal. The hose clamps can allow blow out too. Over time the rubber hose needs a little more clamping force.

The repairs for those leaks are simple.

Mine was worse.....

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Thanks guys, I'll do these things. Hate to go to all the effort of cleaning up the engine and tranny just to have it messed up again in a few months.

Ditch the factory switch and replace it with an adjustable pressure switch. Better quality construction and you will be able to set your big warning lamp (you DO have a big one, don't you?) to come on when the engine is ticking over at hot idle.

put a new section of hose on the breather pipe too.

Yeah, no fooling. I didn't know to do that and after doing the oil thermostat O-ring, the pressure switch and a bunch of while-I-am-in-there's I cleaned the hell out of the engine while it was on the floor only to have a leak from what turned out to be this breather pipe. Grrrr......:mad:

Another tip....when you put a new switch in....run a bead of JB Weld or epoxy along the ridge formed between the metal portion and the plastic portion of the switch...sometimes they leak through / around the body itself..

And do the other things like new O-rings and gaskets for the oil thermostat, new hose, etc, etc...

Should be pretty much OK then...

-Wil

I just spent two days cleaning that area on mine. As everyone always says, replace all those areas 'while your in there' . I personally think that the T-stat Oring accounts for most leaks. They get oil rotted and let oil sneak past the seal while looking like the pressure sender and or the breather. But you gotta do em all while your that far into it.

This time on my new pressure sender, I used plumbers teflon along with a new washer.

I checked for levelness then lightly sanded the mating surfaces of the breather and apply a thin coat of high temp on both sides of the gasket.

and of course a new green o-ring for the T-stat. Cooler oil seals too.

I think I'll do the JB Weld of the sender.....good idea Wil...Thanks

Eric

Looks like the breather hose to me too.....

Most of my leaks were breather hose clamp related. The leaks above the heat exchangers were from behind the cam towers and one of the caps for the chain tensioners.

Take a look at the top picture.
See that "ball" looking thing inside the large nut behind the breather hose? What is that? You can not see it very well but there is a pool of oil sitting beween the ball and the nut. The breather hose is soaked. There is also a pool of oil sitting beween the lower banjo fitting and nut on the oil sending unit. There is a LOT of oil pooling high up on things. How did it get there? You can only imagine what the back of the engine and bottom of the back of the engine looks like.
You guys are right, just replace everything and move on.

Speaking from experience of last week. I ordered a top end gasket kit from Pelican, 2 gallons of purple stuff degreaser (water based), 12 cans of brake cleaner, 2 threepaks of wire brushes, two long handled vinyl agitator brushes......an engine stand and a lot of elbow grease...comes in 5 gallon buckets.

Tear down the complete top end down to the valve covers....send the tin to be powder coated......spritz and spray, scrub and repeat....

It's a pretty thing once you are done.

the breather hose is probably the main leak. big clamps, real tight.

Thanks John. I'm doin' it all sense I can't tell who the culprit is.

Is is possible to use a standard hose for the breather connection. The hard line with a small rubber connector plus two clamps would tend to vibrate and leak more....I would think. A single hose eliminating the hard line, might be an option.

early turbos just used a long rubber hose. the later ones went to the pipe. it's anchored at the manifold so it doesn't move. the hose gets hard from the heat so it develops a poor seal at the engine end, or it can get porous and sweat. or both.

I just pulled off that breather hose. It is soaked like everything else. I have a length of radiator hose that is 1", this breather hose is the same size. When I put either of them on the tube they are too big, snug but not tight. What size should this hose be? I am sure that it is part if not all of the problem. Can I use red gasket sealer on the tubes before sliding on the new hose?

I also found out why I have hard cold starts. The 7th injector electrical connection is drowning in oil. I popped off the connector and oil oozed out! What a freakin' mess.

Another question. The oil sending unit has a brass washer on the bottom of the banjo fitting. There is no washer between the sending unit and the top of the banjo fitting. Should there be one?

Oil was caked on the back side of the engine oil cooler. When I removed the small plastic air duct that covers it there was a pool of oil running there too. Got it all cleaned up as well. That explains all the filth atop the passenger's bank heat exchanger.

Do not use radiator hose. The oil will break it down. Use something rated for gas, PCV or other.

There should be a small crush washer under the idiot light switch.

Did you pull the oil thermostat yet and have a look at the o-ring?

BTW the oil line is Metric. I actually buy it through Wurth and even Porsche by the foot.

Wasn't planning to use radiator hose, just had that size handy and compared it to the existing hose in size. Figured the P-hose was metric and was surprized that they both appeared to be the same ID.
Thanks for the info.

My breather hose is 25mm i.d. which is essentially 1in. I think they're all that size. Surely a good clamp should prevent blow-by. There are some different types of clamps that may be more effective.