Tarek,

Looks like you confirmed my suspicions. Glad you found the problem.

There are several diagrams and photos of the WUR internals posted on the net, if you can't find them, I'll dig around in my stuff. Taking them apart shouldn't be a problem. Yours is somehow plugged up, could be from the filter screen, or a corrosion problem or....

Since yours is no good as it is, you could tinker with it if you so inclined, maybe you can find the problem. If not, I suppose a new one is in order. There also are a couple of places posted on how to set your mixture *approximately* with out a gas analyzer. I can probably find these too, as I have posted at least once on this in the past. I think Souk has also done so. I'll have to help out on this a little later, but I will if you need the help.

To adjust the pressure by knocking the plug, you first find the plug, which is in the small (about 3/8" dia) indentation on the top. If you put a drift or nail set in the top center, then you can hit it w/ a hammer to push it down. This is a "feel" type of thing so don't hit it too hard, but still be firm. You can then check w/ your gauge to see if the control pressure has gone down. If not, hit it a little harder again and recheck.

If you want more control you can make thw WUR easily adjustable as outlined elsewhere in past threads. Usually this is not really necessary as the WUR does not need periodic adjustment. This just allows you to control the adjustment better than the trial and error knocking the plug method, for example if you knock it too far, you can easily pull it back up.

In your present situation, I would try the knocking method first. Just don't hit too hard, and check w/ the gauges.

Also, don't forget, sometimes even brand new WURs can be off and should be checked if there are any problems after installation.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

Paul,

That is the plug that holds the spring arm on the other end, right? So pushing the plug further in, pushes the spring arm away from the valve. Is that the deisred effect? I'm just wondering if my WUR plug is already knocked down too far, and if it needs to be moved the other way...just trying to understand. Sorry I'm a novice in this. Thanks

I found a plumbing tool, similar to a ball joint tool, only a lot slimmer, that seems to fit in that hole and have a grip around the WUR....so I'm hoping to knock the plug by turning and tightening the tool, and hopefully it's strong enough to move the plug in small enough increments without risk of overdoing it.

ok..I finally knocked the plug. In fact, I did it enough to drive it all the way through...and pressures never changed at any point.

So I took the WUR cover off and tried to push on the valve directly with a sharp tool in the pin socket....no changes :( I guess that tells me teh blockage is in the valve itself.

does anyone know if the inlet/outlet housing can be separated from the WUR body in order to get to that valve and clean it correctly?

This thing has taken many of my weekends so far, including this holiday weekend, so I'm just about burned out on it...yet I'm so close to POSSIBLY clean that valve....IT's worth going the extra mile, as long as I can get it done before sunset.

If that doesn't work, I'll buy a new WUR. (Mine looks rebuilt, and I would hate to go through the same thing again in a few months)

Thanks again
Tarek
'79 SC almost there?

You can take the valve housing out, it's a pressed fit but it does come out with a socket and a vice. After that you will have to deal with three very small flat head screws to remove the bottom plate. The problem is however once you get the plate off you will need a new gasket.

Best to get a new/reman WUR at this point, when I did this it was strictly "exploratory" to see what made it tick, there was no way I could have put it back together without a new diaphragm and seal.

Oh and just a side note, I purchased a brand new WUR and it was dead right out of the box, if you search another forum member had the same problem. I think you may have just about the same chance new or rebuilt given the shelf age of these things now.

How far did you actually push the plug down? There should be a lot of room to maneuver there, like maybe a quarter of an inch or so, before you go too far. I'm sorry that happened. If you pushed it in just a little and it wound up being too far, then I think it was way off to begin with. Also, if the pressure never changed, I think the whole thing might be shot.

Since you now have it open, you can try cleaning it. There is also a small thin metal diaphragm in some units that some posters have inverted to good effect. Also, you may be able to check to see if the electrical portion is working, although typically you would check cold control pressure w/ the elec plug disconnected anyway, so if your cold cp was high, then that wouldn't matter.

Quite often these things can be cleaned and/or adjusted, but sometimes it's just time for a new one, or a rebuild by the pros.

Tarek your brave, and no-where the klutz you claim. To those that responded to his ?, you are what the board can be, and is. I learned alot just following it. Currently running ( repaired WUR, not R&R) we shall see how long it holds. Just wanted to say thanks.
Rika

Scott,

Yes I'm seeing by the time I buy the gaskets, I'll be close to the cost of a rebuilt one, which is $125.00. Not bad considering the cost of new ones...and yes I'm seeing that it's worth doing at this point, versus a new one.

Greatly appreciate the help and advice.
Tarek

'79

Paul,

You were not way off. It wasn't in too far, but I had to keep moving it down hoping for change in pressure readings, and kept going until teh plug went all the way through.

I did try to clean it before, but I think at this point, short of complete disassembly and new gaskets, it won't work, so I'd rather pay the pro's to do it right with calibration and warranty.

Yes I performed the test with plug disconnected...and again, pushing on the valve manually didn't produce a change in pressure, it's pretty much narrowed down to the valve inside (or under) the inlet/outlet housing.


All
I'm reasembling as we speak and will send out hopefully before FedEx closes so I can may be receive it back before the end of the week. It's been rough doing nothing else since Friday afternoon. Thanks everyone for your help. I learned a ton already and hope to return the favor one day. I'm not done yet and will post progress. Stay tuned

Tarek
'79 SC

On my 80' it was only $78 for a rebuilt from the link I posted earlier, I hope the price has not gone up too much.

Scott,

I'm using the same place you recommended. Apparently it changes based on the person you speak to, because I was asked to include a slip in the package, indicating that I was quoted $125.00 by employee X

Employee X told me he would have it back out the door the day he receives it, which should be 10:30 am this morning

Tarek
'79 SC

Just curious, is this "with the core charge" or after the core refund?

(Just curious becuase my neighbor needs one as well)

They rebuilt the core I sent them and returned it to me. So it's equivalent to the price after core refund

rebuilt WUR is in. Pressure holding at 43 psi. Car starts right up BUT...it's doing the same thing when hot...sputtering and backfiring, and almost dying completely, unless I shut off the engine for 2 or 3 seconds after which it goes like hell again...

..now I discovered what an idiot I am...I realized the tank was pretty empty during that test....I filled up and came home with no issues....so the real warm test is tomorrow. I suspect it will be on the slightly sputtering side... What's next to look at if that is true? Pressure is good,idle is steady at 1050 rpm.

adjust mixture?
stay tuned for warm test tomorrow

thanks

Tarek,

Go to my site (click on the www below), and look under Testing on the CIS Primer pages, then the mixture link. There is a procedure there for making an approximate setting on the mixture without a CO meter.

Hi all,

Hopefully this isn't hijacking the thread, it seemed to be on topic and it's what came up when I searched.

My '84 930 is in the shop right now, mostly for some routine maintenance. However, I pointed out that it has been getting progressively harder to start. It starts up fine in the cold morning, but 8 hours later when I go to start it up in a room-temperature underground parking lot it is quite difficult to start whereas it will turn over fine, start up but won't hold on and stalls out. Usually it will hold on the 5th try or so with little sputters and backfires.
I've also noticed after a long drive, turning it off and returning shortly the car it starts up great and seems to idle faster as well, around 1000rpm as opposed to about 800.

The mechanic diagnosed it as the Warm Up Regulator, and that it should probably be replaced. With a quoted pricetag of $1000cdn for the part I wasn't that eager too replace it, and he actually said if I can tolerate the difficult starting then just leave it in there.

Does this only have an affect on starting and nothing else? Does it have any other affect on how the car is running?
Thanks