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Rotisserie- Whats the easiest method to making one?
I have been meaning to ask this for while but never got around to it.
Now I am at the point of needing a Rotisserie for my shell. Any ideas or plans on how to make or easily build one? Also what the easiest way to mount the shell up to the rotisserie when its 4 feet off the ground ?? If you have pics, please post them thanks |
I am thinking of buying one already built. Except for the mountings to the Porsche body. Those would have to be fabricated.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=15405&itemType=PRODUCT |
Do a search. There have been few threads on such, some with plans. I am sure if you PM'd the creator, he would share details.
Doug |
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Abisel- Thanks for the link, but there is nooooo way I would spend $1200 on a rotiserrie. I am pretty sure that I can buy the material from the metal shop for less than 1/4 of that. I think you should do the same. I will steal a few ideas from the pics in the link though. Thanks again |
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Herman here is the rotiserie that I made. Most designs are similar. I also show how to make the yokes that attach to the car body. It is also made in components that you build up to the finished product. I also made a pair of serious saw horses to set the body onto while you attach or remove the rotiserie.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/228044-flanks-71-targa-911-rotisserie-pictures-plus-plans-so-you-can-build-your-own.html?highlight=Flank If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help. |
Just thinking creatively here. What if one were to combine two heavier duty yoke-type engine stands with suitable/similar steel framing and bridging supports between the two? It might cut the design/fabrication down some.
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Combining two engine stands creates more problems to overcome. The ones that come to mind right off is the wheel size. Engine stands with those little casters don't roll very well. Also when you move the car say in or out of the garage the small wheels will not go over the different heights of the concrete very well.
The other problem is how to raise the car body up when you want to rotate it around. If you had a fixed height that provides clearence to do this, then the car would be about four or five feet off the ground. The reason behind being able to raise and lower the car body is not only to make it easier to work on, but also to get the car on and off the rotisserie by lowering it onto a pair of saw horses. Then it's lowered to jack stands if the wheels are not on. But I have seen the twin engine stand set up, but they didn't offer what I was looking for. |
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140564992.jpg |
Looks effective.
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I wonder about tipping? but it does look worthy from the pic
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One wrong move and x months of bodywork goes crashing down. Sounds like the right reason to have a sturdy structure.
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Not to push these people and their product, but they do mention a few things to consider. http://www.whirlyjig.com/GTO.htm |
That shot of two engine stands is a bit scary. The setup is imparting huge stresses and twisting moments to the attachemtn points..I would worry that it would do more harm than good, and thats not even considering a real failure.
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I got that pic from
http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/rotisserie.htm It was an example of how not to do it ;) |
We had one built and it worked fantastic. We purchased the plans for a rotisserie ( can be found in resto mags), purchased the square metal tubing and hired someone to weld it up. You can use the bumper shock mounts to bolt the car to the rotisserie on 74 and newer cars. For pre 74 you will have to fab up another way to bolt the car to the rotisserie. When we were through we sold it to another Porsche owner who was restoring his 911.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140623698.jpg |
Is it the photo, or is the "spine" sagging slightly?
Here's a link to a modded engine stand rotisserie: http://www.autorestorer.com/articles/art106.html Brian |
Alright rotisserie porn. You can't make it too strong. Here is a drawing I made of the rear yoke, the front is similar. Note how I bored a 3 1/2" hole through both sides of the 2x4 arm. Then you can slide the center round piece thru this hole and weld on both sides. This design will prevent the yoke from ever falling off or bending away from the pipe it mounts to.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140627654.jpg I don't have a close up on this side of the yoke, but you can see how the round pipe passes thru the 2x4 arm. This is pretty strong like this. I used a hole saw and a lot of oil, but it was worth it for the peace of mind. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140627861.jpg Some of the other designs may be ok if the car is not moved much. But I want to be able to bring the car outside for stripping paint, painting, etc.. Some quick porn.. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140628052.jpg and http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140628088.jpg Just make sure your welds are good and strong. Also when you are done building one, I know you'd be anxious to get your car mounted to it. But paint it first and it will look good and not rust so fast. The paint I used on mine is that zinc galvanized tower paint. Tough stuff. Hope this helps some. |
Thanks for all the ideas guys.
Flank- Thanks man. I really apreciate the plans. This is exactly what I was looking for, I am still trying to figure them out though. I think youre design is very good, I like the jack idea a lot. Just wondering how much$$ in material is there involved? I have to do it either way, but would just like to have something to compare to when I go to the metal shop today to get some prices. Flank, I may have to bother you to help me clear up a few things in the plans. thanks again Highwaystar- That link is also very good, Thanks. |
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