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-   -   Rotisserie- Whats the easiest method to making one? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/267436-rotisserie-whats-easiest-method-making-one.html)

herman maire 02-20-2006 09:41 AM

Rotisserie- Whats the easiest method to making one?
 
I have been meaning to ask this for while but never got around to it.

Now I am at the point of needing a Rotisserie for my shell.

Any ideas or plans on how to make or easily build one? Also what the easiest way to mount the shell up to the rotisserie when its 4 feet off the ground ??

If you have pics, please post them
thanks

abisel 02-20-2006 10:06 AM

I am thinking of buying one already built. Except for the mountings to the Porsche body. Those would have to be fabricated.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=15405&itemType=PRODUCT

na2ub 02-20-2006 10:07 AM

Do a search. There have been few threads on such, some with plans. I am sure if you PM'd the creator, he would share details.

Doug

herman maire 02-20-2006 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by abisel
I am thinking of buying one already built. Except for the mountings to the Porsche body. Those would have to be fabricated.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=15405&itemType=PRODUCT


Abisel- Thanks for the link, but there is nooooo way I would spend $1200 on a rotiserrie. I am pretty sure that I can buy the material from the metal shop for less than 1/4 of that. I think you should do the same.

I will steal a few ideas from the pics in the link though.
Thanks again

highwaystar 02-20-2006 11:14 AM

Check this out.
http://www.harwoodperformance.bizland.com/1941buick/Editorial_20.htm

Flank 02-21-2006 10:59 AM

Herman here is the rotiserie that I made. Most designs are similar. I also show how to make the yokes that attach to the car body. It is also made in components that you build up to the finished product. I also made a pair of serious saw horses to set the body onto while you attach or remove the rotiserie.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/228044-flanks-71-targa-911-rotisserie-pictures-plus-plans-so-you-can-build-your-own.html?highlight=Flank
If you have any questions, I'll be glad to help.

1982911SCTarga 02-21-2006 12:02 PM

Just thinking creatively here. What if one were to combine two heavier duty yoke-type engine stands with suitable/similar steel framing and bridging supports between the two? It might cut the design/fabrication down some.

Flank 02-21-2006 12:48 PM

Combining two engine stands creates more problems to overcome. The ones that come to mind right off is the wheel size. Engine stands with those little casters don't roll very well. Also when you move the car say in or out of the garage the small wheels will not go over the different heights of the concrete very well.
The other problem is how to raise the car body up when you want to rotate it around. If you had a fixed height that provides clearence to do this, then the car would be about four or five feet off the ground. The reason behind being able to raise and lower the car body is not only to make it easier to work on, but also to get the car on and off the rotisserie by lowering it onto a pair of saw horses. Then it's lowered to jack stands if the wheels are not on. But I have seen the twin engine stand set up, but they didn't offer what I was looking for.

911mot 02-21-2006 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1982911SCTarga
Just thinking creatively here. What if one were to combine two heavier duty yoke-type engine stands with suitable/similar steel framing and bridging supports between the two? It might cut the design/fabrication down some.
ummm...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140564992.jpg

1982911SCTarga 02-21-2006 04:39 PM

Looks effective.

72 four door 02-21-2006 05:20 PM

I wonder about tipping? but it does look worthy from the pic

Don Plumley 02-21-2006 05:23 PM

One wrong move and x months of bodywork goes crashing down. Sounds like the right reason to have a sturdy structure.

abisel 02-21-2006 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Don Plumley
One wrong move and x months of bodywork goes crashing down. Sounds like the right reason to have a sturdy structure.
After searching around the internet for auto rotisserie, it has become obvious that a sturdy structure is very important. If the car controls the rotisserie, there will be trouble. You want the rotisserie to control the car. Flank has achieved that by using 1/4 inch material in his rotisserie construction. Look at his pictures. The rotisserie is not flexing anywhere. So, if you are going to build or buy, make sure it is heavy duty.

Not to push these people and their product, but they do mention a few things to consider.

http://www.whirlyjig.com/GTO.htm

lateapex911 02-21-2006 06:48 PM

That shot of two engine stands is a bit scary. The setup is imparting huge stresses and twisting moments to the attachemtn points..I would worry that it would do more harm than good, and thats not even considering a real failure.

911mot 02-22-2006 04:57 AM

I got that pic from

http://www.mildevco.net/chevypowereddatsuns/rotisserie.htm

It was an example of how not to do it ;)

Driver8 02-22-2006 06:55 AM

We had one built and it worked fantastic. We purchased the plans for a rotisserie ( can be found in resto mags), purchased the square metal tubing and hired someone to weld it up. You can use the bumper shock mounts to bolt the car to the rotisserie on 74 and newer cars. For pre 74 you will have to fab up another way to bolt the car to the rotisserie. When we were through we sold it to another Porsche owner who was restoring his 911.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140623698.jpg

1982911SCTarga 02-22-2006 07:51 AM

Is it the photo, or is the "spine" sagging slightly?

Here's a link to a modded engine stand rotisserie: http://www.autorestorer.com/articles/art106.html

Brian

Flank 02-22-2006 08:13 AM

Alright rotisserie porn. You can't make it too strong. Here is a drawing I made of the rear yoke, the front is similar. Note how I bored a 3 1/2" hole through both sides of the 2x4 arm. Then you can slide the center round piece thru this hole and weld on both sides. This design will prevent the yoke from ever falling off or bending away from the pipe it mounts to.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140627654.jpg

I don't have a close up on this side of the yoke, but you can see how the round pipe passes thru the 2x4 arm. This is pretty strong like this. I used a hole saw and a lot of oil, but it was worth it for the peace of mind.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140627861.jpg

Some of the other designs may be ok if the car is not moved much. But I want to be able to bring the car outside for stripping paint, painting, etc..

Some quick porn..
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140628052.jpg
and
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140628088.jpg

Just make sure your welds are good and strong. Also when you are done building one, I know you'd be anxious to get your car mounted to it. But paint it first and it will look good and not rust so fast. The paint I used on mine is that zinc galvanized tower paint. Tough stuff. Hope this helps some.

herman maire 02-22-2006 08:26 AM

Thanks for all the ideas guys.

Flank- Thanks man. I really apreciate the plans. This is exactly what I was looking for, I am still trying to figure them out though. I think youre design is very good, I like the jack idea a lot.

Just wondering how much$$ in material is there involved? I have to do it either way, but would just like to have something to compare to when I go to the metal shop today to get some prices.

Flank, I may have to bother you to help me clear up a few things in the plans.
thanks again

Highwaystar- That link is also very good, Thanks.


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