Replacing fog lights with driving lights
 

The Hella 450 driving lights would fit the space perfectly, but I am not sure that they would fit the mounting bracket well enough to get them properly positioned and aimed.
Has anyone replaced their fogs with driving lights, and if so how and with what? I am sure I can fabricate a bracket with the necessary movement, if I have to ... but would like to know if there is any easy way to do this.

Look up threads between "zoanas" and me.....

He used Hella 450's and I just converted using Cibie 35's with clear, long range ( non-fluted) driving lights lenses.

Zoanas had to re-glue the plastic mounting tab on the backside of the Hella's... I had to drill an unobtrusive hole on the topside of the "strap" that forms the top edge of the fog light opening in the valence.

- Wil


EDIT - http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=149477&highlight=Hella+ 450

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/216105-fog-light-removal-85-carrera.html?highlight=Cibie

Thanks Wil; I found that doing a search after I posted.
Did you fix the aiming problem with the Cibie Airport 35s? Sounds like you were able to bolt them right on to the original mounting plate without modification.
I found a place online that sells the Cibies for $74. A good spring project.

Aiming...I think I have the problem licked...but won't know for sure until the car comes out of hibernation later this year. The upper hole I had to drill is in the reinforcing rib of the top strap that forms the upper surface of the fog light "hole"...so the "grab" of the mounting stud and plate is a bit unsure against this "roundish" surface. We'll see.

Jackson Pike is *THE* man to see about Cibies...great prices too. See here for these odd type Cibies, since I don't think Pelican carries these.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=215048&highlight=Jackso n+Pike

- Wil

I'm using my Hellas daily, and loving them! I recently installed a six-relay setup to isolate all filaments, and it has turned night into day.

six relay setup? Adding relay to the light system for full capability? Can you expand a little more detail on design and which relay to use?
Thanks.

Relays are standard 30 amp SPDT automotive relays.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140510569.jpg


The setup allows driving lights that operate with or without headlights, and with high beams.

There is much more info in this thread.

The picture above is a revision of this picture:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1140510849.jpg


Note minor changes to the connections at the fuse block.

Thanks for the diagram.
Do you replace all wires with bigger wires or just added to the relays?
Thanks.

All new wires from relays to fuse box. Larger gauge wire, but only for peace of mind. The design isolates each filament circuit, so the maximum current flowing through any single relay is far less than there would be through a design with fewer relays.

Zoanas' wiring using 6 relays has positives / negatives...as does the alternate methods that use 4 relays. Just a different "mix" of +/- . ....

I used stock wattage bulbs and stock wiring, using a Sucro 2 relay kit ( fogs already had a relay from the factory)....and re-located one grey wire so the "fogs" ( now..."driving lights")can come on/off independently of the hi/lo beams. They can even come on alone... or in conjunction with the hi's. This wasn't possible from the factory. Stock...they woukd come on only in concert with the lows and would drop out when the hi's were on. All it took was to relocate one grey wire from the output of the fuse block, and move it over a space...IIRC.

Wil

I haven't figured out what negatives my setup presents.

>I can run higher wattage bulbs without worry while still using the stock wires between the fuse panel nd the lights.
Four or fewer relays require two filaments to be fed with a single relay. Higher wattage would be a concern, as current is additive in parallel.

>I have independent operation of the fogs (Hella 450's). W/WO headlights, W/WO high beams, and they come on with the flasher.

>If a relay in my design fails, (they usually fail in the normally closed position because they are physically spring loaded), I will retain both low beams, which is safer than losing both low beams and having to use high beams to get home.

>Troubleshooting is simpler, because each light has it's own relay.

What am I missing, Wil ?

Zoanas:

As I said..there is no condemnation of your design, but the arguments for / against on the "minor" +/- differences are shown in this thread that you also posted... with interchange from "ianc" and coloradoporsche--->

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=263709&perpage=20&highl ight=zoanas%20relay&pagenumber=2

Here's another point/counterpoint exchange--> http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=259846&highlight=zoanas +relay

I used the Sucro kit, but upgraded the relays to Bosch 50A rated ( stock/standard is 30A). Compared to the total amp loading this is probably overkill too, but I opted for "stout" relays instead of multiple units.

My 2 relays...along with the *one* grey trigger wire change for the "fogs" ( that allow operation independent of *any* combo of hi/low beam..as long as the parking lights are "on")...gives me just about all the features your set up does....in a much simpler package...

different strokes and all that ......

Wil

Definitely different strokes for differnt folks, and "better" is a totally subjective concept in this case. Originally, I was looking for DPDT relays to reduce the number of them, but found that the cost and availability wasn't worth it when I was running the wires anyway. The SPDT relays were plentiful and cheap. Since I located them in front of the spare, I didn't have space issues near the fuse box.