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what is the best oil to use?

here in beautiful sunny arizona where daytime temps are often altered by various news and casino operators, so as to not scare off the touristas. we usually see a spat of downright miserable dangerous summer temps, that really put the hurt on all living things including my 1987 cabriolet 3.2. i know i am opening a can of worms here when i ask "what oil is best" for this type of driving??? does anybody have a technical articles on oil and heat breakdown? been recommended castrol gtx 20-50. have seen numerous people mention mobil one and others. whose claims are true and whose are not. when it gets this hot there is only 2 solutions............go to the beach(san diego) or mtns(colorado). if its san diego its an all day affair thru hell, no matter what time you leave. so i was wondering if anyone had any feedback??? on our SCORE 1/2 1600 car we ran straight 50 weight and it lived all season very happily. thanks chuck
Old 03-01-2006, 02:24 PM
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Ya want "technical articles"??...or people's "opinions"??....

If you want tech info...look at the "oil bible" embedded within...

What oil?

...or directly --> http://volkswagen.msk.ru/vw_doc/the_motor_oil_bible.pdf


Get a BIG cup of coffee....174 pages I think....but the *best*, single source for info I've found..... if you're lazy...look at the back end and simply look up the "rankings" based on a canned formula.

The nice thing is... YOU can modify the formula ( the "weighing factors" or how important to YOU the various factors are)...and re-rank using your own modified formula...

Be prepared for the inevetiable come-back like "I used 20W-50 Castrol for the last 100k miles....don't bother reading."

...different strokes....

- Wil
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Wil Ferch
85 Carrera ( gone, but not forgotten )

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Old 03-01-2006, 02:34 PM
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kqw kqw is offline
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When I lived in Phoenix, I ran Castrol straight 50 weight in the summer. In the milder months I ran 20/50 Castrol.

Some folks run Mobile 1 synthetic and that's fine. I change my oil every 3,500 miles and even though synthetic is a better formula, I felt I wouldn't get the full benefit of synthetics because I changed the oil so frequently.

If you run the car to say, 7,500 miles or even 10,000 miles between changes then, I guess Mobile 1 would be worth it.

Every Porsche I've owned ran with this regimen. I sold each one after 300K+ miles before I upgraded to another P-Car.

Whatever oil you choose, keep an eye on levels and condition of the oil and the engine will run fine.
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Old 03-01-2006, 02:49 PM
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hey thank you very much on this topic i knew would stir up some opinions. got this kinda stuff from boat engine builder here and was skeptical until i saw why he recommended penzzoil on boat engines. he stated when they sink, any other motor not using penzoil is covered in algae and rust. but when penzoil motor and boats retrieved from bottom of lake the internal parts were all clean..........no rust no scum no algae! no matter how long they sat at the bottom of the lake. ssooooooooooo with that in mind i would love to hear back and or see any evidence on porsche motors full race or street abused from mechanics that tear into them all day. BIG difference in climates btwn stuttgart and phx, az. hell btwn phx and peoria, illinois caterpillar corp could replicate any climate in the world with either test track. so i appreciate the feedback in my quest for the perfect drops of nectar for my still unnamed carrera. if i could fit it in my living room doors(close but no cigar), it would sleep in my living room a la "dan tanner style" or "der bat-cave"! thanks chuck. when your single ....................YOU CAN HANG THE EXPENSE!
Old 03-01-2006, 02:54 PM
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dear mr fox...............just what i wanted to hear. someone that spent the time and effort to research, change oil viscosities thru seasons and has a very good end result for his efforts. and has hands on experience with our deadly summers. i am a 48 yr native and still havent figured out how to get outta here! thanks alot chuck
Old 03-01-2006, 02:58 PM
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No Problem Chuck...you have a great year for the Carrera. As you know the temperature of the oil is very important but, you have a fan on your front oil cooler so you should be fine.

I am a former Wildcat from the UofA and after completion went to Phx. and purchased my 1st P-Car in 1976. Unless you have experienced the brutal summers in Phx, folks do not understand the concern of keeping the engine in a P-Car operating properly. It's HOT in Phx, not warm or uncomfortably hot...Hell Hot...

Anyway, oil is important and again, with your '87 you should have no issues. Just tint the window's, get a dash cover, stay away from the "Chip Seal" and keep the cotton bugs away..Ha, ha, ha..
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Old 03-01-2006, 03:46 PM
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dear mr fox..............when do i shut the engine off as far as temp! as you know everythang is hot here. what i plan on doing is at the least put a stripe on gauge to remind me, then at later date put mongo giant third eye on dash for track days. plus everyone will ask me what it is and off we go with tall tales of B. S. the best one that i got on my SCORE class 8 truck was the emblem placed on passenger door handle....................EJECTION LATCH! needless to say that always gets the newbies hair curled!
Old 03-01-2006, 04:22 PM
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Did ANYONE open the oil bible ?????

People here ask for "technical resources" and when presented...don't use it. Symptom of today's society.... "gimme a fast answer, I can't be bothered to read and investigate ".....

For others who may be interested....Look at HT/HS specs ( High temp-high shear) as well as Flash Point. Some nice surprises like some 50W mineral oils doing much better than synthetic Mobil 1...by over 50 degrees !

You can de-emphasize "cold flow" characteristics and modify the ranking formula to ignore these.

- Wil
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Old 03-02-2006, 05:54 AM
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I, could care less about oil stat's and studies etc. As long as I buy a quality oil, change it every 3.5K miles, keep up maintenance, drive the car until it hits 300K, sell it and get into another P-Car and start the process over again.

In extreme climates such as Arizona summers, or North Dakota winters, I would change the oil weight. Other than that, I don't worry about it.
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:25 AM
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kqw:

You didn't ask the original question..so my remarks did not necessarily target you...

BTW... the top land rings of a piston take a terrible heat beating ( >500 degrees, no matter what you oil gauge reads) where oils with high temp characterisitcs shine...typically synthetics but high, single-weight mineral ( 50) does even better at times.

...has nothing to do with frequent oil changes, etc... if the chosen oil can't handle the heat...etc...

- Wil
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Old 03-02-2006, 08:50 AM
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Wil...I know that your comments were not directed at my post. I was just expressing an opinion. Your point on "heat" is well taken and folks in extreme climates should take heed to your references.
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Old 03-02-2006, 09:03 AM
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as many opinions as there are oils...use M1 ow40 if you want synthetic...Rotella T or Chevron Delo 15w40 if you want conventional/mineral oil...20w50 will not give better protection and may contribute to higher oil temps. tested it and use both myself!
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Old 03-02-2006, 09:04 AM
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BTW, if you want articles on oil and suitability for high temps look at :
www.bobistheoilguy.com many Porsche tests in the "used oil analysis" section.
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Old 03-02-2006, 09:07 AM
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I judge my oil by taste. All other criteria pale in comparison...
Old 03-02-2006, 09:10 AM
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well i think taste is subjective! always preffered a vintage can of Red Line on my cereal....
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2005 996 cup
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1987 carrera 3.2-street/de car
1962 Austin Healey 3000
Old 03-02-2006, 12:29 PM
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well after asking this question and reading and seeking wise men, and finally talking to the engine builder where i take my cabri-o-lei(hawaiian porsche) who has worked on porsche's for 30 years building street and track motors, i have found MY ANSWER! i thank all of you for your input. now i'll bet all of you are dying to hear what he said and i am sure this will ignite more controversy, but after hearing him i will concur with his logic. 50 weight VALVOLINE...........PERIOD!!!!!! year round in ARIZONA! one of the reasons.................... his own vehicle an OLDS 442 has over 300k on it and the original crank HAS NO WEAR! hhhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmm and when he says customers vehicles that he has built engines for, maintain strict oil change guidelines every 3-3500 miles he is seeing them with 300-400k all day long. i think that says something for his wisdom. in my case with a measly ass 1600 single port 1/2 1600 SCORE car we never had a problem with engine ever thru 2 seasons running 50 weight VALVOLINE RACING! and the best way to describe our dezert racing was put an 8x8x16 block on gas pedal in 3rd gear, and the only time you shifted into 4th was on a downhill with a tail wind!!!!!!!!!!! brutal on any engine let alone a enemic restrictor plated single port that did have all german parts and no hecho en mexico nor brazilia parts! so in ending YES I WILL RUN VALVOLINE 50 weight racing year round here in the dez! thats my story and i am sticking to it! until someone proves thru accurate apple/apple testing will i consider changing! thanks everyone for your input!
Old 03-02-2006, 01:00 PM
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you will be OK with that oil. it is not the optimum for your engine or use but it will not harm anything for the most part. i would not be suprised if you get many,many miles out of it!!
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brant giere
2005 996 cup
1991 964 euro cup (Larbre #28- race
1987 carrera 3.2-street/de car
1962 Austin Healey 3000
Old 03-02-2006, 01:04 PM
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since i am single and money is NO OBJECT when it comes to vehicles..........women thats another whole story.............what is the very best racing oil and weight that is put in LE MANS-INDY-FORMULA motors???????????? man they are spinning RPM's big time!
Old 03-02-2006, 01:15 PM
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Motul 300V is the best you can buy for high heat-long term use. i would use the 300V Chrono 10w40. you can mix all viscosities of that oil. it is very similiar in composition to Red Line which is also fantastic. Motul is veeery expensive...
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brant giere
2005 996 cup
1991 964 euro cup (Larbre #28- race
1987 carrera 3.2-street/de car
1962 Austin Healey 3000
Old 03-02-2006, 01:20 PM
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hey thanks for the tip will look into this asap! since vehicle in shop getting correct OEM tail painted and installed, i am chomping at bit to drive again, by the time i get off of this next road trip it will be oil change time. when you say expensive how much for a quart of MOTUL????
Old 03-02-2006, 01:30 PM
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