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-   -   Chain Tensioner Line Replacement - Help (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/269221-chain-tensioner-line-replacement-help.html)

cab83_750 03-01-2006 04:14 PM

Chain Tensioner Line Replacement - Help
 
My left carrera chain tensioner oil line started to leak. Here it is:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_Carrera_chain_tensioners/pic13.jpg

Just received the part from our host, including the 2 seal washers, and I am about ready to replace the line. Do I need to drain the oil? Will the oil start oozing out in much quantity?

Feedback please! Tips and tricks! And yes, I did read the tech article but it is missing the torque #'s.

Thanks.


BTW, the line started to leak by the rubber piece. I just don't understand why Porsche did not make 2 support brackets (I only have one). I suspect vibration finally cracked the rubber.

wilke3169 03-01-2006 04:46 PM

No need to drain the oil. You will get minor seepage but nothing to worry about.

cab83_750 03-01-2006 04:50 PM

Thanks. Seepage was a worry, but I probably could have handled.

If the line were 'pressurized', I probably would have freaked-out!

john walker's workshop 03-01-2006 05:43 PM

the new left line usually requires replacement of the metal tensioner line also, because the threaded joint is in a different place on the new line. (the metal line has been updated.) in a pinch, you can tweek the metal line to fit.

cab83_750 03-01-2006 05:59 PM

Hmmm..... I just went outside and without disassembly, I put them side by side and they seem to be the same. The threaded joint seems to be at the same place also.

However, the difference is that my leaky one has a cloth covering the rubber piece, whereas the one from Pelican is all rubber (no cloth). Maybe, I should just start the project late Friday, so that if I needed the metal tensioner line, I could buy it Saturday morning.

I guess I would need to remove the distributor, huh?

john walker's workshop 03-01-2006 06:26 PM

distributor out, yes. put the pulley on TDC #1, which puts the distributor rotor pointing toward the fan housing and above a notch on the top edge of the distributor body. remember the position of the rotor. mark a scribe line at the distributor base and onto the engine case that can be matched up again later and yank it. easy to reinstall now and the timing won't change if you do the lineup right.


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