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mark '87 930's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Toronto, Ontario
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ball joints

Will be replacing my ball joints on my '87 930... Anyone in the Toronto, ON. region with a Ball joint socket I could borrow/rent or something?

If I buy the tool, I'll just end up selling it on ebay anyhow.. so I figured someone out there must have one they are willing to either sell or rent.

Shocks are next..
I love working on these things. It's unreal how simple they are (but expensive).

Old 02-22-2006, 04:29 PM
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I used a 14 inch pipe wrench but don,t tell anyone that
Old 02-22-2006, 04:44 PM
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shhhhhhh.......me too.
it worked just fine
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015
Pacific Blue

Wayne
Old 02-22-2006, 04:53 PM
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how did you tighten to spec? Or did you just give 'er all you had?
lol
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 02-22-2006, 04:54 PM
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have either of you done bearings as well? Front wheel?
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 02-22-2006, 04:55 PM
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Yep. Did my bearings last year. Torqued the ball joint nut damn close to spec. Actually, I have no clue but it's tight. I checked them again in a few months and all was well.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015
Pacific Blue

Wayne
Old 02-22-2006, 04:57 PM
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Wayne, any trouble with the bearings? did you need to remove the race, bleed the brakes, disconnet tie rods and all that crap, or did you work around all of that?
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 02-22-2006, 04:59 PM
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Bearings were very simple. Do a search here for detailed info with pictures. My way may not be the "right" way.
No need to bleed the brakes, mess with the tie rods, or any of the suspension. If your brake fluid is three or more years old I would flush the system and bleed. If not, then do the bearings and be on your merry way. It's not much different than the GM vehicles I have worked on over the years. The bearing nut on the outside can be tricky. The method is a bit unusual but not complicated at all. Once you dig in you'll see how simple it is.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015
Pacific Blue

Wayne
Old 02-22-2006, 05:06 PM
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great, thanks for the help. Will do some research. I actually just got the car in the fall, and since it's been away, I've changed the brake fluid and the tie rod ends (car has 92K miles). the ball joints, bearings, and shocks are next before I take it out for the summer.
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 02-22-2006, 05:17 PM
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One last tip.
Buy 101 Projects and any other books available. You will find that the information is out there for the taking. This forum is obviously a great tool as well. Toronto is only about 8 hours from Flint. Drive on over and you can use my tools. That would requre me to take a test drive, though.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015
Pacific Blue

Wayne
Old 02-22-2006, 06:00 PM
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Thanks for the offer, the cars actually asleep for the winter. With the nice weather we've had this year, I hope to take it out early, which means I need to get moving on this replacement.

I do have the 101 projects book and love it. It does have some excellent materials, I was just looking for more experience through this forum. (Bearings are not in there though).
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 02-23-2006, 05:50 AM
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Mine sleeping as well.
Hoping to get my brake parts today so I can start getting it all put back together.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015
Pacific Blue

Wayne
Old 02-23-2006, 06:08 AM
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Being in Canada, parts take longer (I order from the US). I ordered bearings, shocks and ball joints.. I figured if I do it now, I won't have to do it again for a long time. Everyone focuses on more HP, but I want to tighten up the car back to specs first. These cars are an absolute treat to drive. I had driven 'fake' sprots cars such as mustangs, VW carrado's, but man oh man... those aren't sports cars... Porsche really had some amazing engineering back then (and now for that matter).
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 02-23-2006, 06:15 AM
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the ball joint retaining pin.. how do you get a good swing to get that bugger out? Most of you have who have done it, was the caliper removed to do this? I have a set of punchs, am I amheading out now to get a larger hammer...i just don't want to damage the caliper.

thoughts?
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 03-04-2006, 12:14 PM
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one other thing... how the heck do you get the pipe wrench in there? I didn't try to actualyl fit it yet as i want to get the pin out first. There seems to be no room to get enough of a grip on it?
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 03-04-2006, 12:18 PM
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Hiya Mark!
You just need to wriggle the pipe wrench onto the ball joint nut somehow.
It works.
As far as the retaining pin, just tap it out with a hammer. You may want to lift the a-arm a bit to take some of the weight off. You did buy new pins, didn't you? They shouldn't be reused. Oh, and be careful when you install the new one. It is a very low torque rating. I busted three of them before I realized that is in INCH pounds not foot. DOH!!!
Use the search button here. I did when I was doing my setup. Alot of good advice.

BTW-I got mine completed today and ready to go for a test drive. Man, it's nice to hear the engine again.

How do you like your Subaru? Wifey likes the new styling although we would be getting a wagon.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015
Pacific Blue

Wayne

Last edited by Oh Haha; 03-04-2006 at 01:18 PM..
Old 03-04-2006, 01:15 PM
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Mark,
If your ball joint nut is like mine (87 Factory turbo look), and I suspect it is. Your ball joint nut is recessed to the point that you cannot get a pipe wrench anywhere near enough to get a decent bite on it.

Do a search, as some of the other guys have fashioned a tool out of a 4X4 someting or other. Me, I bit the bullet, and ordered the tool from our sponsor.

You should put a jack under the tool to add support as you torque in the other axis, otherwise you will just F up the tool. The best is to air impact with a jack as support under the impact wrench. Dont be afraid to use plenty of penetrating fluid and the butane torch prior to loosening the nut.

As for the wedge pin, thread your existing nut on, just before you have thread protrusion through the other end of the nut, and hammer on the nut. This way you may be able to save the wedge pin, as they are rather expensive. Certainly more than a self locking nut.
Best of luck to you,
Paul
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Old 03-04-2006, 01:52 PM
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Good point, Nine9six.
I actually cut my old ones off because I couldn't get a wrench on them. I think Mark is looking at the tightening method of the new nuts.
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1981 911SC ROW SOLD - JULY 2015
Pacific Blue

Wayne
Old 03-04-2006, 02:32 PM
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Nine9six, if you are willing to part with it, I would be interested in buying it. Worst case, I may end up buying one and then selling it on ebay. I can't imagine I'll be doing the ball joints again for about 15 years or so!

You are absolutely correct, it is recessed in there a fair bit. I gave it a quick try today with a pipe wrenc, but I was running outof time, so I'll try again tomorrow. It bites, but I'm not sure how much, 185lbs of torque is not small!
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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 03-04-2006, 03:24 PM
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Wayne, you said you did front wheel bearings, did you change the race as well?

Thanks for all your help. this board is a great resource.

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1987 930
1956 Chevy 3100
2009 Subaru Forester
2003 KX250 X2(I like my toys!!)
Old 03-04-2006, 03:52 PM
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