Engine lid latch HELP!!!
 

I am the newest memer to the "Call me stupid club"...the first step in defining the issue is admitting it...anyway...I was test fitting my new ducktail...got the hinges lined up and snugged...then I attached the latch...closed the lid...needed to make more adjustments...pulled the release...Nothing...loosened the cable from the handle...nothing...does somebody have a trick for breaking into one of these without cutting a hole in the decklid...I am at a loss...I have tried to push...pull...twist...lift...the lid in all directions with the help of another set of hands...I just cant figure a way to get it to open...it was working fine on my original lid...I made no adjustments to it other than taking it off one lid and putting it on the other....I might also note that it seemed to take more foce to close the lid than it did with the stock lid...but I wrote that off to this lid being glass...any input would be much appreciated...also any hints on adjusting the latch would be appreciated once i get this thing open...cheers

Sorry to hear about that. Supposedly you can unscrew the t-handle and the latch will move to the rightand open. Apparently it locks in the middle and left or right of center it is open. Post if this works. I'm curious. Best of luck.

I tried that....didn't work for me....that is why I am so puzzled

Worst case, you take off the bumper and use a hole saw - say 1 1/2", to go thru the two layers of sheet metal directly under the latch-you can then lever it with a screwdriver. Before you try that, have someone hold the t out while you shift the lid around. It might pop and save you a couple hours work.

The new lid likely is not dimensionally identical to the old, hence the problem.

I have tried the two person approach with one holding the handle...the bumper is off the car anyway for painting after removing the bumperettes....can you give me the approximate location to drill the hole? and how big?

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I dont have a 3.2 in my car now but might you be able to get a thin pair of arms in through where the heat tube comes through the engine tin. I cant remember how the bottom tube comes off but the top(inside the engine compartment) is only held on with a jubalee clip so you may be able to push that out the way if you can get in from the bottom.

Then you can reach accross with whatever and unlatch it - good luck

I have had it happen a couple times and have always been able to get it unstuck with the two person twist pull etc. Go back to your two person pull twist efforts or use vice grips to hold the handle out fully while you do it. YOu will need to move the lid far enough to get the base of the male portion aligned. Right now it is cocked so much it is not able to slide past the released catch. Never tried this but if there is enough clearance you could also try to thread a cord under and around the latch and use it to pull it to alignment . Also for future fitting try to look from the sides also and make sure the base of the male portion of the latch is going to allign then barely snug the male portion so it can be forced into alignment. Good luck

Thanks Jeff...I will try your Cord suggestion...I have done the vise grip to hold the pull....tried the two person thing....I was just out of ideas and do not really want to cut a hole in my new lid...

Don-to answer your question about where to drill, if you get under the car you will see a flat sheet metal panel along the rear edge you want to be in the right to left center of that, with the center of the hole about 2in from the rear edge (approx). Essentially, directly under the latch. Use a hole saw in a 1/2in drill, preferably. The panel is double thickness with a little space between the layers. Once thru, you can shine a light up there and see which way you need to lever the pin when someone pulls the latch. If the bumper is already off, this is no biggie as that's the hard part. You can always plug the hole if it give you the heebie jeebies, if not, at least paint the edges.

Its likely misaligned either right/left or fore/aft such that its not clearing the plates when they swing open.

Haven't tried this, but have you tried reaching in through the grill opening? Maybe someone has a pic of this area so you know when the end of the wire pierces your thumb (sorry). Is it possible to loosen the 4 hinge bolts through the grill opening?

You can also try the helper approach; one person pulls the t-handle, the other person carefully shifts the lower section of the lid left and right.

Good luck,
Sherwood

I guess it is better to have a problem keeping it down then in keeping it up.

Don't drill. keep the two person thing going it will open. I did this a couple of months ago. It will eventually open. Shift it left and right.

Last case scenario go throught the grill ( easier to replace than sheet metal)

I like your attitude Lusso.....especially that "shifting left and right" and going in through the grill...oh yeah!!!

the a/c condensor is in the way...so the grille opening is not going to work....i will keep trying the shifting thing....for a while anyway...right now I am out of town on business....when i get home I will have lots of time to devote to it.

Don, Whatever happened?

I've got the opposite problem. My trunk lid won't stay closed. So as not to hijack, I am going to post a separate thread on this but I am very intersted to hear as I am doing searches to see how to fix this.