suspension assembly

[GMR911]

When re-assembling the front suspension, which fasteners should be assembled using grease, thread-lock, or anti-seize or nothing. Some bolts in particular question would be a-arm bolts, turbo tie rods(both the tie rod end and the threaded section), the ball joint pin. Thanks, Jerry

[ghnat]

I would like to know as well. I plan on anti-seize at least, given the pain it took to loosten some of the bolts (castellated nut).

[Zeke]

When I install common chassis bolts, I make sure they are clean and that the threaded member of the body is clean. It's easy to use a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean the bolts, however, it takes off any plating that might still be there. Soaking in carb cleaner and lightly brushing with a brass or nylon brush does the job on most. If they are realy nasty, you might consider replacing with new.

Getting the female threaded part (what is the proper name for those?) is not as easy, but a set of small spiral brushes helps. You can also use a thread "chaser," not a tap. But, those are hard to find at the usual stores.

Usually just a light oil for me and the proper torque. There will be some debate as to how to torque when oil is present vs. dry. Stone dry doesn't seem natural to me. I think that new bolts can go in dry because the plating acts as the lubricant (in some way that I don't understand).

Suspension bolts are not subjected to the vibration that engine fasteners are, so I personally see no need for a liquid thread locker unless one of the parts is lightly damaged, i.e., "loosey goosey." On those, sometimes I'm fearful of going all the way on the torque value and hope that the thread locker will substitute for a low torque.

Bolts should not be sandblasted or replated, IMHO, unless they are mostly non structural. I consider fender mounting bolts, engine tin screws and the like non structural.

I treat bolts that screw into aluminum, like the steering rack, differently. There, I see thread locker as an assembly lube and holding compound. I use the blue, or medium strength on those. Locktite, or other, seems to prevent corrosion as well, making the use of anti-seize unnecessary. One would not use both on the same fastener anyway.

I will always defer to our resident fastener expert, Jim Sims. Searching using his name will yield much info on the subject.

[GMR911]

Jim, thanks for the info, very informative. How about threadind the tie rod end into the stearing rack, locktite or nothing on the treads, just hand tighten with a wrench? Jerry

[slodave]

Originally posted by GMR911
Jim, thanks for the info, very informative. How about threadind the tie rod end into the stearing rack, locktite or nothing on the treads, just hand tighten with a wrench? Jerry

Lock-Tite on those.

Dave

[GMR911]

Hi, anyone have any more ideas, opinions on this subject before I jump into this next weekend. Also with the turbo tie rod installation, do you always install the supplied spacers or is there a reason why you would not, Thanks Jerry

[slodave]

Install the supplied spacers. They are needed.

Dave

[GMR911]

Dave, red or blue lock-tite on the threads

[slodave]

I only had the blue. Zeke mentioned using the blue stuff as well.

[GMR911]

Thanks, did you grease the tie rod end when you install it in the steering knuckle, if so any special grease

[slodave]

No, I think that it would negate the lock tite.

Dave

[GMR911]

Dave, not on the treaded side that installs in the steering rack(that I will put the blue lock tite on) but the other end, the outer tie rod end where the pin installs in the steering knuckle, did you grease that pin thanks, Jerry

[slodave]

Gotcha. Nope.

[slodave]

The pin itself is stationary when attached to the strut. The joint below that moves.

Dave