HELP engine bay paint over new WURTH - recommend paint applied with a roller??

[DW SD]

I'm in the process of cleaning and painting the engine bay in preparation for the new engine.

I remember a thread where Fishcop painted the trunk with a roller (I think).

I called an automotive paint shop and they acted as if I am crazy to suggest I could paint automotive paints with a roller???

Anyone have any advice? As you can see, WURTH SKS stoneguard (waterbased sprayed with their sprayer) is applied over the engine bay. Ideally, I'd like to roll - on a primer and then body colored paint. Even rolling on primer would be helpful.

Anyone have any advice? Body paint is two stage BMW titanium silver.

Thank you in advance!

Doug

[DW SD]

Bump for after hours viewing audience. Any info would be VERY helpful.
I talked to another shop who sounded very skeptical, but seemed interested in selling me paint to "give it a whirl".
Thank you in advance,

Doug

[Zeke]

Auto paint is formulated differently than common paint in the sense that it isn't designed for flow off a brush or roller. But, additives can fix that. Generally, auto paint is too "fast" for hand painting and won't "slide" as you brush back and forth. This cold, wet weather will help. I would add something compatible with the paint that retards it. Surely the auto paint store can help.

If they are unavailable or unwilling (this is a probability in CA since it's "against the law" to modify paint), I would test a very small amount of your material (expensive!!) with first, xylene, then with their own slow reducer. Remember, the more thinner you add, the less total blocking coverage.

Just for an example, old fashioned straight enamel could be made to slow down and flow out wonderfully with a bit of kerosene. Especially in hot weather. Kero won't work with synthetics that I know of. Xylene is the "slow" part of lacquer thinner and is the generic thinner of choice for POR15, BTW.

Might be able to pick up some xylene at the Home Defect tonight if you are in a super hurry. Otherwise, I'd wait and call the paint store for their recommedation.

Getting a lot of use out of the car cover, Doug. Thanks again.

--(paint Dr.) Zeke

[DW SD]

Milt,
Thanks a bunch for the advice - all good info - hadn't considered that was the issue! What about doing the silver, am I opening a can of worms, because of the metal flake in it or don't you think it matters?

My goal is to do it here, without a mess and be satisfied with the results. I do have an HVLP gun and could spray, I suppose??


Doug

[Fishcop]

Hi Doug

I used a small detail spray gun. The problem as I see it with a roller will be a: getting into crevises and nooks, and b: the paint is very "thin"; in so far as any thinning tends to make the colour transparent (which is why you spray several coats). Moderm paint is 2-pac meaning it dries off chemically quite quickly - so the roller will probably have to be replaced with each coat.

I feel you'd be better off using a quality brush, don't thin it, and expect to give it two or three coats (and probably having to replace the brush each time - unless you clean it properly after each coat).

I really recommend spraying. You should be able to buy an aerosol painting kit to which you add your own paint, or get hold of a detail gun, or even a hobby sized spray painter (as the job is quite small) and spray.

You'll love the end result as it really caps off a detailed engine. Your car is a beauty - I look forward to seeing the final result!

[Wavey]

Sorry, I don't get it. You have a spray gun but you want to roll? Whatever for?

[DW SD]

Wavey: spraying is messy AND the texture makes this an unusual application, that's all.

I asked the question myself: Am I crazy? Maybe the answer is yes ;-)

John: Thanks a bunch! I think I need to reconsider spraying.

Doug

[cali74]

hey I just remembered seeing spray can things that let you add your own paint at Marshall's. If you don't want to get a little gun for the air compressor you could buy one of those things. They hold a "charge" that's good for a certain amount of paint (read: small amount). Then you buy more charges when you need. I think that's right - seemed like a nice way to do it other than the expense involved. Otherwise maybe the paint store could mix up the paint in their own spray cans for you?

[RickM]

Personally I would spray the stonegard. The texture will be retained. If you want to spray and don't want to get your equipment involved then simple order aeresol primer and color coat from Towerpaint.com. Good luck.


PS: Make sure the stonegard you used is paintable. They produce a version that is not.

[Zeke]

Originally posted by RickM
Personally I would spray the stonegard.

PS: Make sure the stonegard you used is paintable. They produce a version that is not.

???? It's already on there. Which isn't paintable? Wurth (his stated product) says it is paintable and I don't know that they make more than one kind. 3 colors, though.

I didn't think of the mini aerosol kits. They work OK, especially in the nooks. As John said, metallic is at it's best when sprayed, at least on the final coat for even metallic distribution.

Regardless, some of my info is good to store away when you get into another similar situation. I brushed and rolled my entire underside, albeit with a solid color synthetic enamel intended for multi-process application.

[Jeff Alton]

My local autobody paint supply place will mix and package your paint in an aeresol for you. They will do it in an "air dry" or a regular activated paint that cures chemically. The trick with that is you have to hurry home and spray it, you have about 3 hrs time to use it.

Cheers

[DonDavis]

Doug,
I wringed my hands for way too long over this very issue with my car. In the end, I used a solution of Simple Green ( not Soylent Green ) and my pressure washer to get the engine bay nice and clean. Then I put a few coats of POR15 Silver and it turned out GREAT! I used the wooden cheapy brushes the paint store suggested. One quart of POR at $30 (I think) did my engine bay (3 coats) and my entire interior floor, rear seat area and rear shelf (approx 3 coats as well, give or take). The silver is not a perfect match but I think it looks very good.




I sent you an email regarding the CAB dampener.

[DW SD]

ALL-
Thanks so much for the GREAT ideas! Lots of them would suit my needs!

Don,
Do you think I can apply the POR - Silver right over the WURTH or do I need to prime first?

Next, did you use POR - 15 Silver or their TOP COAT product?

Thank you,

Doug

[Dan in Pasadena]

Can't comment on what you have to do to automotive paint to make it work in a manually applied mode, but I can tell you for sure that if you could get some oil-based Rustoleum )or other similiar product) made into a matching color - or close - you can "extend it" with a product called Penetrol. A small amount of it added to oil-based paints makes it flow out and leave zero brush strokes. Over a textured surface it would look pretty much the same as a sprayed application does. It works THAT good. Basically I am planning on doing the same thing in my engine compartment but mine is yellow. Silver is tougher.

[sluk]

I used an inexpensive paint brush and thinned the paint (Glasurit) with the appropriate paint thinner so it would brush on easier and get into the little nooks created by the stoneguard material. Used more of a dabbing technique and short strokes. I did this to the underside of a 944 turbo that I prepped for concours - looked great and held up well.

[RickM]

Originally posted by Zeke
???? It's already on there.

Which isn't paintable? Wurth (his stated product) says it is paintable and I don't know that they make more than one kind. 3 colors, though.

It's pretty clear that the Wurth product is already on there. My comment was to spray the color coat onto the Wurth product. As my Tower Paint Aeresol suggestion follows up on.

The Wurth Solvent Free Stone Guard does not state that it's paintable. The other solvent based Stone Guard products are specific on when and how to paint. Also the Black Bitumin undercoat/sealer is not paintable. My advice is simply to double check on compatibilty.

[DonDavis]

Doug,
My car is NOT for show and I consider it a driver. I'm not going to thrash it abusively and I DO care if it gets chips or dings, but I'm not too cincerned if the paint in my engine bay is not perfect. There were spots the Wurth coating had rubbed off or scraped off and all I did was chip back a little further to remove all the loose stuff. No patching, just applied straight to metal there. I had to watch for brush bristles that came off during the process and I saw a couple this past weekend that I missed. My feeling is if someone points that out, I'll just divert attention to their snobbiness and point out their gig-line is off.

I used the Rust Preventive POR15 Silver straight onto the car. No primer. The store said it would be just fine that way. The Wurth coating is a bit pliable and a good receptor for the paint. It dried to a hard shell that will hold up for a VERY long time. The paint flows like fingernail polish and actually smells like it too! I transferred it to a glass jar but if it gets on the threads, you'll have to use a can opener on the lid to get the paint out. It makes a permanent bond.

[cali74]

Note on the por15 - there is a por15 rust preventative Silver that Don is referring to, Then there is a por Silver Topcoat that is different.

The por15 rust preventative Silver can be put on metal straight like the other well known por15 paints (just a different color with some added metal "filler").

The por Silver Topcoat is more like a normal paint and you should put a primer down especially if it's going on any previously painted surface. I didn't use a primer as the directions didn't state it was needed - painted over a previously painted surface the Silver Topcoat looks good, but it is not super chip resistant like the por15 rust preventative paint.

I haven't used the por15 rust preventative Silver, though I think Rich had it all over his car. It looked good like other por15 colors, but the Silver topcoat has a metallic affect, though it's not as glossy as the por15 rust prevantive Gloss Black, and Gray.

Por Silver Topcoat should be rolled and NOT BRUSHED on flat surfaces, but can be brushed on dimpled undercoated surfaces. The roller avoids problems with brush marks on flat surfaces.

Also, the Silver Topcoat will run if put on a little too heavily - and beacuse of the coloring, the runs will be noticeable. It's best to use thin coats to avoid this problem. As the product isn't high-build, later layers won't cover up the drips very well.

Oh - and the brush bristles LOVE to hang out in the por15 like Don said - another reason foam rollers and brushes are nice.

[oneblueyedog]

Por 15 with a small foam roller. Bluer silver than my exterior but with it all filled in it's hard to tell.

[Dan in Pasadena]

oneblueyedog - That looks really good. When you painted that was it very hard to get under all the electrical gizmos on the left side? How did you clean/degrease under there beforehand so the paint would stick? I plan on using a brush on mine and sort of daubing it on carefully, but I don't want to slosh degreaser in there...too many sensitive electrical items. What do you think?

P.S. Anyone know if the POR products can be colored to match your body paint? Would POR do it for you or would you have to take it to an automotive paint supply house to get it done?