Front aluminum cross member

CHILI · CHILI's Garage

Does anybody know or have an idea of the weight savings vs. a steel cross member?

There's one on E-bay right now and I was thinking about bidding if you guys think it's a good upgrade. Also, will it fit my 69? I know there's a difference between the 69 a arms and later style a arms, but I don't know what that diffence is and if it affects the pick-up points of the cross member.

I sad to say I don't know too much about the fronts of our cars. I didn't change the front bushings in my old car, and had my mechanic install the turbo tie rods. I know much more about the rear!

Steve@Rennsport · 03-17-2006, 07:33 AM

7 lbs difference between the Al one and the stock steel piece.

GIBSON · GIBSON's Garage

Just did the install on my 73 last weekend, very easy and the aluminum piece is a lot cleaner plus the weight savings. Make sure you have the crossmember and the two arms that tie it into the chassis, the steel one has those as an intergral part of the crossmember, the aluminum one does not.
It's also a good time to check your steering rack, tie rods etc...

Zeke · 03-17-2006, 07:36 AM

Can't say the exact weight savings but I think that info is on Thom's (widebody???) site. I have had one of each in my hands and it's significant. Don't know about any differences in the members themselves AFA bushings, ect.

They sell for 100 all day long at Parts Haven so don't go overboard on the price.

CHILI · CHILI's Garage

Ahh, thanks guys. Great information.

Bruce, do you have a pic of what you are writing about? Or a link on Pelican's site? I can't seem to find one

Thanks Zeke! I would have no idea of its value. He has a reserve, so we'll see. If it's too much I can put a wtb ad or call parts haven.

Thrasher · Thrasher's Garage

Chili,

I just took one off my 84 that had a minor area - non-strucural- that needs repair - if you're interested in getting the repair done, I will sell you mine for $50. It was going to require removal to do the repair, so I just picked up a used one for $100 and was planning on repairing it and listing it for sale. I figure the repair should be around $20 from anyone with a TIG welder.

The damaged area is where the ride height screw is retained. the PO must've run over something and caught that screw, breaking out the material.

Other than that, the crossmember is fine, and still perfectly straight - I say this because the new one lined up fine on my car.

Here is a pic (it's the one on the right):

Craig