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Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Posts: 79
Which valve cover gasket kit for my 81SC?

Hi,

Quick question... what valve cover gasket kit (available from our host) should I use? I was planing on doing a valve adjustment in the next few weeks and I'm wondering if I should go ahead and spend the extra $$ on the Silicone version. Are they any better? I have the upgraded turbo valve covers. Is there anything else you think I might need?

I did do a search but didn't really find anything.

Thanks!
Shayne
'81 SC

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Shayne
'81 911 SC
Old 03-21-2006, 08:53 AM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Ann Arbor, MI
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I have been using the silicone gasket set on my 83 for 5 years averaging 2 valve adjustments per year with no leaks.
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Jim Dowty
97 911 Coupe (Forest Green metalic, sunroof, leather)
PCA RSR region Insurance chair and Board member
Gruppe B #309
Old 03-21-2006, 09:10 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 425
Silicone is the way to go. And be careful not to overtighten the nuts when you put them back on. I believe factory spec is only 15 ft/lbs of torque (could be wrong, but it's not a lot of force). I just stopped a leak in my motor that was caused by an overzealous wrench (me!) doing a valve job last year. I was convinced the leak was coming from everywhere BUT the valve cover. You just want to get them snug, not tight, or else the gasket will deform and you'll have a nice little leak on your hands.
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'87 Carrera

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Old 03-21-2006, 09:47 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
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Shayne,
Go with the silicone gaskets and new hardware, elastic stop nuts and aluminum washers.
Make sure the valve covers are FLAT. Check with a straight edge. They like to warp slightly at the edges. ANY warping needs to be resurfaced. Be critical.
Even the newer upgraded turbo covers warp. Ask me how I now.
When installing the covers use low torque, 6-8 ft/lbs. Really we're talking inch/pounds; 70-90 inch pounds.
I watch the edge of the silicone gasket and lightly tighten until the gasket just starts to squeeze out.
This is why new elastic stop nuts are required each time you remove the valve covers. Old nuts could come loose.

You can check the valve adjustment gap, .004"(four thousandths) at the elephant foot with this simple procedure.

At TDC compression, try to slip a .003"(three thousandths) feeler between the rocker and the CAM.
This is the other side of the rocker, where the rocker rides the cam.
If the .003" feeler won't slip in, the gap at the elephant foot/valve is less than .0042" (four point two thousandths).

Then try to slip a .0025" feeler in. It should go in if the gap isn't under .0035" (three point five thousandths) at the elephant foot/valve.

In other words if the 2.5 thou. feeler won't go, the gap at the elephant foot/valve is too tight.

Bottom line here, if the 3 thou. doesn't go and the 2.5 thou does, at the rocker/CAM, the valve adjustment is in spec.

The 3 thou. is your no go gauge and the 2.5 thou. is your go gauge.

This all works because the rocker ratio is 1.4 at the base circle of the cam.

.004" divided by 1.4 equals .002857" (two point eight five thousandths)at the rocker/base circle gap.

Do this before you adjust, it will save you time and assure you of an accurate adjustment.

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DOUG
'76 911S 2.7, webers, solex cams, JE pistons, '74 exhaust, 23 & 28 torsion bars, 930 calipers & rotors, Hoosiers on 8's & 9's.
'85 911 Carrera, stock, just painted, Orient Red

Last edited by 2.7RACER; 03-21-2006 at 09:59 AM..
Old 03-21-2006, 09:51 AM
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