Springplate torque question, confused...
 

Hi
I got the Haynes manual but I don't understand what bolt is what.

Whats mostly interested in the torque settings for the ride height since that are not mentioned in the Haynes.
I'm hoping someone can clear it up for me.

The toe and camber excenters has new schnorr washers and the ride hight has no schnorr washers

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1143726445.jpg

The red is a clamping bolt (Non-Eccentric)
Yellow is for Height-adjustment (Eccentric)
Blue is for Toe-setting (Eccentric)
Green is for Camber-setting (Eccentric)

Set the smaller of the two-piece torsion plate (Spring plate) so it sits in the middle of the bigger spring plate. This way, you can do the final height adjustment up or down AFTER you index the 40/44 teeth torsion bar for height. Use anti-seize lube on all bolts/nuts so you can move the parts easier.
I recommend that you get the Bentley SC Repair Manual which explains the whole set-up with pictures. A '77 is very similar to an SC.
I started with setting all eccentric bolts in the middle of the slots. (Halfway of the total travel) Then I set the height and then went for an alignment. Expect to go up and down with adjustments a few times before height and alignment is where you want it.
Get the Bentley.

Hi Gunter!
I know what they do and I have set them up roughly so I can get to an alignment shop.
But I don't know how hard to torque up the height clamping bolt (red).

Bentley 440-10 says: 245 Nm (181 ft-lb) for both clamping (Red) and eccentric (Yellow) That's a good torque!
The others (Blue & Green) is 85 Nm (63 ft-lb)
And the two M12 that hold the spring plate to the trailing arm is 120 Nm (89 ft-lb)
If you use antiseize lube on the threads for the nuts, then the bolt will not turn on you.

Thanks!
Wow, 245 Nm... I don't have a torque wrench that big!

How much overall rear height play is there - just adjusting the "yellow" eccentric bolt/nut?

Quite alot, almost an inch total up and down, I would guess.

Thanks.
Would adjusting the height using the "yellow nut" - let's say half an inch - require a re-alignment also?

Probably, i'm not sure.
I think you would gain a little negative camber if you lower (I'm guessing that is would want to do), but thats not a bad thing.

One possible method to get this much torque this is to take a large (1/2 or 3/4) ratchet and slide on a 2 ft cheater bar (steel pipe), making sure it is exactly 2 feet from the socket and horizontal. Apply downward pressure at exactly 2 feet from nut while standing on a scale. If your weight is 200lbs, when the scale reads 110lbs, you will have applied 90lbs on the cheater bar giving you exactly 180ft/lbs of torque on that nut. Good luck! :D

Hello et al: I didn't use a torque wrench for that nut; just a box-end wrench and a 4-lb hammer. But, do what makes you feel good. A 1/2 inch drive will probably not do it; a 3/4 inch drive is better.
As for adjusting just with the eccentric bolt for height: It depends where it sits. There is only a total of ~one inch in the total travel.
Porsche factory setting is done so the vehicle can be raised, but not lowered on that eccenter.
I prefer to set it in the middle BEFORE indexing so I can go up or down a little if needed after indexing the bars.
Just going up or down 1/2 inch on the height-eccenter bolt will not really affect the alignment IMHO but will change corner-balance.
With weight on the spring plate it is very hard to move the eccentric bolt. Before you can move the eccentric bolt, you need to open the clamping bolt and most likely will experience the smaller spring plate to change position on the larger one with a "snap" because the torsion bar load will force it down.
It's best to make any adjustments with the weight/load off.
I found it much easier to make a referrence-mark, then lift the weight off and make adjustments. Use lube on the threads and eccenters.