Front end suspension removal questions

[CHILI]

I'm very familiar with the rear end, but not the front.

1. I have the castle nut off of the tie rod. Why won't it come out of the strut? Is it threaded in or something? I hit it pretty good with a dead blow, but no luck.


2. If I remove the bolt at the bottom of the strut (bright silver one showing, can I remove the a-arms while leaving the strut hanging from the top bolt (to be removed seperately)?


3. Lastly, how in the world are you supposed to get the sway bar out? Is it supposed to be forced through the bushing in the end plate? The end is larger than the diameter of the bar.

[slodave]

I can only answer on your first pic. Hit it harder!! It will fall out.

Dave

[CHILI]

Originally posted by slodave
I can only answer on your first pic. Hit it harder!! It will fall out.

Dave

That's what I'm talkin' about!

[Jeff Alton]

There is a really nice inexpensive tool that pops that right out. I would show you a pic of it, but Jasper has mine....

The answer to #2 is "yes".

The answer to #3 is.... you need to get the bushing out of the bracket, or said another way, get the bracket off the bushing and then slide the bracket over the end of the sway bar without the bushing stuck in it.

Cheers

[Jeff Alton]

Well what do you know, I have a pic saved on the computor from posting on another thread a while back....



This one also works, just not quite as well...



Cheers

[CHILI]

Hmm, what a pain for the awnser to #3. I haven't looked at my newTarett bars, hope it's not the same. I'd hate to have to work a new bushing in like that.

Anyway, thanks for the info guys.

[Jeff Alton]

Nope, on the Tarret bars the bar end slips right through the bushing no problem. No need to worry about that. Those bars are really nice. I have set here going out some time this week to a lucky Pelican....

Cheers

[slodave]

I am assuming that you are going to replace the tie rods. If so, you don't have to worry about mushrooming the tie rod. You might want to support the strut arm tho. I used a small sledge hammer. Worked on both sides, really well. careful use of a flat blade screw driver could help as well.

Dave

[CHILI]

Originally posted by slodave
I am assuming that you are going to replace the tie rods. If so, you don't have to worry about mushrooming the tie rod. You might want to support the strut arm tho. I used a small sledge hammer. Worked on both sides, really well. careful use of a flat blade screw driver could help as well.

Dave

Yep, tubo tie rods. I need to support the strut for sure. The car kind of bounces on the car dolly.

[slodave]

OK, just looked at my old tie rods. One 'could' be used again. the threads are good. The other - I must of wailed on it pretty good. I do not think the castle nut will go back on. My car was on four jack stands and pretty solid.

Dave

[jwetering]

Geez there's a lot of front end threads lately - I do in fact have Jeff's tool and it does in fact work very well. You can have it back anytme Jeff. thx

[sammygon1]

You don't have to hit the tie rod on top. If you hit the arms from the side where they join the tie rod will fall out and you won't damage the threads.
-Sam

[safe]

Originally posted by catca

I got one of those! Total crap, didn't help me one bit when I was replacing my tie rods.
I turned and turned the bolt without the tie rod end popping out. Then it was time for the BFH, that worked much better
I hit it like Sam says above.

[na2ub]

Use a pickle fork to remove the tie rod ends. You can pull the whole front suspension out if you unbolt the top of the shocks, unbolt the steeing rack from the cross member, and unbolt the a-arms at the front, the crossmember from the body, and disconnect your sway bar. Don't forget (like I did) to unscrew the fuel pump mounting grommet from the crossmember before lowering the whole assembly on the jack. You can further pull the steering rack after unbolting the u joint in the luggage compartment, with a little maneuvering.

Doug

[CHILI]

This is good info! I'm inspired. Now I just need to make it through the next 8 hours at work. Bummer.

[Gunter]

Hmmm........Hitting the tierod bolt (Balljoint) without supporting the control arm??
Seems to me that soaking it with penetrating oil, supporting the arm (solid, with steel), putting a nut on the threads (If the balljoint is going to be re-used) maybe some heat, and then using a 4-lb hammer should do it.
However, there are special tools for this like others said.

[Jeff Alton]

Well, I have popped 20+ tie rods out with that tool in a matter of seconds each time. No banging the $hit out of stuff and transfering the shock into the steering rack for me. It is the same tool that alot of manufactures suggest and sell for seperating a tapered tie rod end. Don't see many workshop manuals suggesting the hammer...... "

It works for me and everyone I have lent it too, you results may vary!

Cheers