wow, matt. you have been busy.

jon and i were talking. we want to help wrench on your car. it will be fun. i read a thread along time ago where some guy did a fantastic job just painting on the POR with a brush. i cant find it. hey are all those screws just poking out the bottom? why not just chauk them over with some paintable silicone and then por over it. i dont know if a bunch of stalagtite looking things hanging from the underbody is cool. i know i would stab myself.

(congrats on the smog thing!!!)

By the way, what is this "handle" shaped bar for in this photo that is mounted on the wall between the rear floorboard and the rear seat cusion? The other side has one too. I highlighted it in red:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1144634499.jpg

Thanks Cliff. I'm sorry I missed you and Jon this weekend. I totally forgot which day you guys were going to work and I had (have) a lot of stuff here to do as you can see :D. As for the screws, I will probably take the car to school and raise it on a lift, cut the ends of the screws and then fill over the bottom of the screw. Maybe you guys want to come over when we POR the floor/seat frames which will most likely be next weekend.

To answer the question about POR15 vs. Rustoleum, et al, I believe the POR formula to be a single component polyurethane much like Gorilla Glue. Since it's super sensitive to moisture (like the glue), the reasoning is there. Now then, since it's tough (Gorilla tough ;)), it seals the porosity of the rust from oxygen and binds the rust to a solid by penetration. OK, that's my theory on the stuff.

OTOH, Rustoleum used to have natural oils in it to displace water and seal the rust. Certain Rustoleum products have more self etching acidic properties than others and work somewhat like any self etching primer. IOW, you are getting some rust treatment as well as a coating.

As a conclusion to my strictly opinion about these products, I have to say that I have not gone back to revisit old projects to see the results of various procedures. (I keep selling them ;)) but, some evidence shows that Hammerite, Rustoleum and other synthetic enamels to be effective when properly used. POR is such an overkill (pun intended) that it really can't fail to work, again properly applied. It's got a good name amongst the casual car restoring crowd, so why not use it where you can't get the last bit of rust out?

But, for bulk work that has been reasonably prepared, I will continue to use other products to prime. And on completely prepped metal, I will continue to use epoxy primer, with or w/o the self etching property, depending on the situation.

POR 15 is unnecessary on new, or new looking metal, IMHO. And, it can inhibit bonding of top coats if not prepped, itself. It's not a panacea.

Id fix the leak first. Next, Id give it the POR treatment next and spray the rustoleum over the POR. Im the Prince of Overkill :)

OK, I'm ordering the POR-15 tomorrow. What would be most be most sufficient to do the floorboards plus the rear seat frames (pint, quart or gallon)?

Get the little $7 can. I think its 4 oz. You have to use the entire can once you open it, so find all the surface rust on your car and have it prepped before you start.

Fix your leaking window gaskets. That's where all the water comes from.

I Just saw this post. I would not use screws in the holes, they will probably rust. Why not have the holes welded back filled?, They POR15 paint over that upper and lower sides oof the floor pan.
regards,
Steve

Do you think that he should use a por15 topcoat (Black coat), or is it ok to joust use 2 times Por15 rust paint??

POR 15 makes a product called POR-15 Epoxy Putty which you can use to fill the holes in the floorboard. Really, really easy to use. I've used this stuff too. The Sonett was pretty rusty - but not any more. :D

I realize this thread is sounding like a commercial for POR-15 but when the stuff works ...http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/happy.gif

I had rhinolining get chippe dand hold water against the underside of my FJ40...all that stuff seems to do is hold moisture in against the metal.

POR-15.

And the putty works really well. You don't need the topcoat if its under your carpet. Try this...wire-wheel it down to metal, putty the holes, then a coat of silver POR, then coats of black POR until the silver is covered. Usually just 1 or 2 coats.

You'll never see rust again...

I'll second welding up the holes...pretty easy to do. Screws are a pretty hokey solution.

Zeke is right on about Por vs Rustoleum, regarding chemical make-up. Por cures by absorbing moisture. This is unlike most other coatings which dry by solvent evaporation.

I used this on an old Austin Healy 3000 and it worked very well..]

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1136&itemType=PRODUCT

Than I coated it with POR 15.

Is the POR15 a durable enough product if you intend to leave no interior (as in a track car)? Will it resist scratching and scraping well or is there a better product for that application? Unfortunatley, the color selection is small and I think an all black painted interior would be wierd.

Brian

It resists scratching and scraping very well, but it is not a "showroom smooth" finish. It sometimes has small bubbles or streaks.

Well, for a race car interior, I don't expect showroom quality finish, so it sounds like what I need to get. Thanks

Matt-
There's a place in Concord that stocks POR-15. It's an auto body supply store and it's near the Lexus and other car dealers in Concord. PM me if you want specific directions.
-Jon

I have the same problem on my 87 Targa....
When it rains, my rear mats are soaked...
I pull em out and let em dry....
Source is from the window seals? I don't see any visible leaks--there are some screws in the rear floorpan, and a few open holes.. this cannot account for the SOAKED mats and moisture behind the seats?????

Want to know where all this moisture is coming from!

Thanks- Patrick