Trailing Arm Bush
 

Ive just been looking for trailing arm bush's on our host and noticed these's quite a price difference between the O/E rubber ones and the Poly Graphite one's. Whats the difference are the rubber one's simply more expensive because they are O/E or are the poly graphite ones inferior?

Thanks Steve

Anyone?

Stay away from the rubber bushings. Only buy them if they come w/ a new control arm and are volcanized like the new factory ones. I used the Elephant Racing, which our host sells. They work great. Well worh the money.

Do a search. Nothing but positive comments.

Gary

I am very happy with the Neatrix rubber ones I put on. Other posts to same effect if you do a search. Not sure why the comment above, but the Elph. products have a good rep.

Most avoid the polygraphite ones and use Elph. or original rubber. I sincerely doubt there is any need to vulcanize them on the rear arms.

What is the car used for?

Hi I think there is a bit of confusion here over what bushes I mean. I'm referring to the trailing arm or banana arm bush's not the spring plate bush's. For the spring plates I have already purchased the neatrix but have decided to do the trailing arm bush's as well.

Thanks Steve

Use the rubber bushings, or pillow-ball mounts. Poly is to stiff, and will bind. The trailing arm (aka banana arm) doesn't just move up and down. It moves in and out as it goes up and down.

While the factory bushings may cost a bit, they are a proven commodity that will last 20+ years.

Use a spherical bearing. The rubber bushings allow movement you don't want (inner mount will move up and down or in and out). The inner banana arm bushing should allow the trailing arm to rotate about the axis of the bolt that holds the arm in, but it should also allow the trailing arm to pivot. Lateral movement along the axis of that bolt or perpendicular to the axis of the bolt is unwanted....

Even for a street car, the spherical bearing is fine. I've installed our bearings on several cars that are used on the potholed and frost heaved roads of the midwest...no problems.

I think what Souk says makes sense here. So who makes spherical trailing arm bearings and where do you get them?


JA

Oh - bushings. I thought this thread had something to do with the Pelican girls.

For the reasons stated above, avoid the polygraphite type. They do not allow the degrees of freedom required for this point. The semi-rigid material pinches and binds, fighting the trailing arm as it moves through its arc. You can see this yourself if you try to align the rear, it fights every adjustment.

Further, they have no center sleeve to carry the load of the bolt. You will never get the bolt torqued properly because it is working against the semi-compliant polygraphite. And pinching it, binding it.

Go for factory rubber or monoballs.

Anyone know where you can get the monoball type trailing arm bearings from? ive been unable to find them on pelican.

Steve

You arent looking in the right place then:
Look after:
Monoball Joints
Elephant Racing Front/Rear Monoball Cartridges
Elephant Racing Weather-Sealed Rear Monoball Cartridge Set, 911/912/930 1965-89 NEW! [Photo]
ERMP-2020901 $250.00

I can find monoball's but none listed as for use on the trailing arm joints. Just the OEM rubber or polygraphite bushings listed as for use with trailing arms.

Steve

Is this the right one for the trailing arm?

Rennline Rear Sealed Monoballs, Set of 2, Zinc, 911/911 Turbo (1965-89) REN-MB12-Z

Steve

Yes, either that or the Elephant Racing one I listed above.

Here ya go:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_SUSprf_pg19.htm#item18

Here is something to think about. When removing the trailing arms with engine installed. You'll need to cut the bolts(easy-sawzall). But when you reinstall them the bolt head will need to be trimmed on one side to get them reinstalled or buy a trick bolt set up from Smart Racing(nice).
Now while you in there. When I did this project the steel arms were tossed and aluminum ones were use, with mono ball (for all the reasons others have pointed out). The weight difference is tremendous and easy way to get weight off your car pictorially un-sprung weight. also install new axial bearings. With the trailing arms in your hand any shop can properly press them into place

Go for the Elephant ones, I did and am very happy. AS for the bolt head issue I believe it depends on the car. For my Carrera I was able to get them out without dropping the motor. They were still a major PITA though. Chek those bolts before you tear into it. Also, I did one side with the banana arm still connected to a bunch of stuff on the car and one completely disconnected. Definitely fully remove the arm and then undertake the replacement. First side takes 1 1/2 hours, second under an hour.

John

The bolts isnt an issue my engine and trans are out, when putting it all back together how do you get a basic adjustment on the camber and toe settings? at least so its good enough to drive it for alignment.

Steve

Do a search on home alignment, there is plenty of threads.

Search for Ray Scruggs on this forum.

This is a timley subject. I had my trailing arms off today to replace my bushings, I have these from Pelican (see pic)

These have a metal sleeve on them, I don't know why. The metal sleeve will not fit into the trail arm bore. If I remove the metal sleeve, the rubber bushing will fit the arm snugly, however the rubber bushing is only half the length of the original ones. The original ones would touch in the center of the trailing arm, the entire shaft area had rubber and a metal sleeve attached to the washer. The replacements will leave a gap between the 2 sides. I can only find 1 part number for this bushing, 901 331 059 00.

Anyone know the deal here?

Ed

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1145153026.jpg

First the good news. There is nothing wrong with the bushings, you need to press them into the trailing arms with the metal sleeves intact. :)

Now the bad news. You're buying another set. You will never get the rubber back into the sleeve. :(

Thanks Chuck. I only took 1 apart.

I did a search last night, I need to remove the old sleeves from the trailing arms and then press the new ones in, right?

Regards,
Ed

Do the elephant racing spring plate and trailing arm bearings increase vibration or noise at all?

Steve

Ed, you are correct. The old sleeves must come out.

Steve, no significant change in noise or vibration.

Well looks like you guys convinced me, ive ordered the elephant racing spring plate bushings and trailing arm monoballs.

While im waiting for my order from pelican ive made a start on stripping my trailing arms and spring plates to get them painted up. once I got my spring plates off I noticed some rust in the torsion tube ends where the bushing fits. In the elephant racing installation guide it says to lubricate the outer poly sleave with soapy water to help get it in. Would it not be better to use a silicolne type sealent? This will give good lubrication when fitting and will also serve to seal around the poly sleve to prevent future rust formation?

Steve