Electrical Failure

johnrix · 04-09-2006, 12:31 PM

Backed car out of garage.
washed car.
tried to start car.
turned over a few times but would not start.
tried again, and all guages, radio, lights went off.
No power anywhere.

Removed battery, cleaned ground.
Took battery to AutoZone for a load test.
Battery tests out ok.

Next day, put battery back in car.
When I connected it, trunk light came on.
Turned ignition switch to aux position, and guages came on.
Turned key all the way.
Heard one quick click coming from rear
of car, the guages, lights, etc went dead.

Come on all you experts. You have never let
me down in the past.
Don't let me down this time.

Where do i look?

Jim Sims · 04-09-2006, 02:14 PM

My first thought is, despite the Autozone load test the battery is bad. How old is the battery? Do the lights and gages work in the ignition switch "run" position (not the starting position)? If the battery is truly okay then the gages and lights should return when switching back to the "run" position. If that's the case, then check the ground strap between the body and transmission underneath on the passenger side of the car.

Model and year of the car?

johnrix · 04-09-2006, 02:45 PM

Car is 1985 Carrera.
Tranny ground strap seems to be fine.
Battery is abt a year old.

Wil Ferch · 04-09-2006, 04:21 PM

Get yourself a digital, pocket-sized $25 multi-meter from Radio Shack. Check for voltage across the battery terminals while car is "off". Should be 12.5-12.6 V for a fully charged battery. Anything close to 12.0-12.2 can be considered "dead" , or close to dead.

-Wil

johnrix · 04-09-2006, 04:49 PM

Oh, I did that before doing anything else. 12.6 v
Then took to AZ and had load test performed - checked OK

afterburn 549 · 04-09-2006, 04:57 PM

When ever one uses the word "seems" and" looks" ok...is probably looking past the problem and will spend more time on it then necessary. Go with what Jim Sims says -thats the thing that supplies pwr, Next I would be remove all grounds clean and re snorq. ( Or maybe loose connection at the solenoid on top of the starter)

johnrix · 04-09-2006, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by afterburn 549
When ever one uses the word "seems" and" looks" ok...is probably looking past the problem and will spend more time on it then necessary. Go with what Jim Sims says -thats the thing that supplies pwr, Next I would be remove all grounds clean and re snorq. ( Or maybe loose connection at the solenoid on top of the starter)

I hear you, and am taking every suggestion seriously.
Next step, jack up car, remove and clean ground strap.

afterburn 549 · 04-09-2006, 05:37 PM

12.6 will not necessarily crank the car, that's surface volts..hook your vm back up and watch what it dose when you go to crank position....bet it takes a nose dive

Wil Ferch · 05:45 PM

After cleaning ground straps and connections..check for corrosion under the main positive or negative battery cables. Mine looked fine and was the cause of intermittent starting problems. There was green corrosion for about 6" of length under the insulation..just enough to cause high resistance and not allow the car to start.

I peeled back the insulation..cleaned / scraped the area and globbed it up with conductivity enhancing grease like Burndy Penetrox...re-wrapped and re-installed new terminal "ends"...all is now OK.

Symptom was car did not start..but a slight "jiggle" of the main power lines on the battery allowed the car to start..that was the "Aha" !

See last post here too--> Positive Battery Cable Replacement

Before I had this licked..I guessed this might be the problem...see here too --> starter problem- still- any help or ideas?

Wil

johnrix · 04-09-2006, 07:03 PM

Is it possible that the DME relay would cause loss of
all electricity if it is failing.
I was just out at the car. In the past days, I could reconnect the
battery and the lights would come on. I just tried that, and no
light.
So I thought I would tap the DME relay. After tapping, I connected
the battery and there was light.

Wil Ferch · 04-09-2006, 07:26 PM

Doesn't make sense in that the DME relay is a pair of relays ( one is the same as the earlier " fuel oump" relay) related to the starting circuit...independent of all lights.....

connection problems ????

Wil

johnrix · 04-13-2006, 03:47 PM

Still need help here from you p-car xperts.
Same thing still happens...

Removed battery, cleaned ground.
Took battery to AutoZone for a load test.
Battery tests out ok.

Next day, put battery back in car.
When I connected it, trunk light came on.
Turned ignition switch to aux position, and guages came on.
Turned key all the way.
Heard one quick click coming from rear
of car,
the guages, lights, etc went dead.

afterburn 549 · 04-13-2006, 04:31 PM

bad connection at batt

Wil Ferch · 04-13-2006, 05:02 PM

go back to my 4-09 post... 8:39 PM

Wil