AC delete, looking for input.
 

I'm looking for input on whether to pull the AC components out of my '72 T. It still works and is R-12. I don't ever use it and don't plan on using it. Remember, I live in Ontario, Canada, so though it gets hot up here, it's not Texas hot. I really prefer the cleaner look of the engine bay without the AC components and cant help think it will save me at least 40-50 lbs. How much work is involved in this? The other benefit would be to free up space in the smugglers box for the single (Optima) battery conversion I am planning. I am pretty convinced on doing it but need that final push off the fence. I will keep the parts with the car in case I ever sell and it becomes an issue.

Mike, I've done exactly what you are proposing and I've never regretted it. Removal is easy, including the lines that run to the front of the car. I also removed the controls on the dash to make room for other switches. Spark plugs and valve adjustment are much easier and the weight reduction is significant. My A/C was more of an engine warmer than a interior cooler. I also moved a small battery to the smuggler's box; another fun, low stress project. Good luck.

Consider in the ineffective nature of the AC, the benefit of weight loss and the ease of engine access gained, it is a no brainer to remove it.

Just have an AC shop recover the R-12 before cracking the system open. Start at a convenient spot and follow the lines to wherever they lead, removing as you go. Took me a couple of hours by myself.

To remove it entirely and carefully so it can be reused (if in good condition these systems have value - the air distribution duct louvers alone are worth $25 each) I'd estimate 10 to 12 hours. If you remove the under dash air distribution duct you'll need to replace it with the padded knee pads to retain a finished look. Removing the evaporator/ blower from the smuggler box is "a pain". There will also be several holes in the front "firewall"/fender that you may want to cover. Depending upon the compressor bracket used it can be difficult to remove one of the bracket struts from the engine mount console with the engine in the car. Pulling the hoses is just a dirty job and there will be numerous sheet metal screw holes in the bottom and along the rockers you'll want to seal. I will estimate you'll reduce the car's weight around 70 lbs if you remove everything related to the A/C.

Take the car to an A/C shop and have the R-12 recycled and the system brought down to atmospheric pressure before removing the system.

I removed the entire AC system from my car over the winter. Plenty of sheet metal screw holes to fill, along with the hose holes in the passenger wheel well (any idea's how I should seal those holes?). I replaced the knee pads to give the nice clean look.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...A/9774494a.jpg

Nice '76, above. I plugged the two large holes in the passenger inner fender with rubber plugs. No leaks. The numerous sheet metal screw holes were filled with black silicone RTV from a tube. I left the under dash knee console in place.

I am currently removing the AC in my car. With EFI and no AC the engine bay is extremely clean. I haven't weighed the compressor (I have a R134 unit) but it is HEAVY.

go for it. did mine a while back a piece at a time when i had the chance. it opens up more space than it seems and the weight savings is great. only thing to say though is even if you get the refrigerant reclaimed by a shop the lines will leak a fair amount of that lovely green oily stuff all over your engine bay when working the lines through the firewall if you are not careful. rag in the end of the hose with an elastic band and you will save yourself some trouble.

Ditch it, no doubt about it.

ianc

I snatched mine a few months ago and I love it. The only thing I left was the fan and duct work in the smugglers box. This fan helps to vent out the car in traffic. I have a diff. system than you but the weight savings was 68lbs. I also noticed the car doesn't lift the left front wheel as bad under heavy acceloration.( I have bad bushings to be replaced next weekend)
Rip that puppy off, plug the holes in the compressor and seal it up with a vacume bag.

Hello,

I'm also ripping out my ac. The only problem i'm encountering is I can't get the compressor from the bracket because the screws are difficult to reach with regular tools...
Does anyone have a solution? Special tools?

Regards
John

I removed the bracket attached to the compressor. They come out as a unit. What car do you have? You might have to remove the muffler to do this.(mine was already off waiting replacement)

hey, rick V. i yanked a system out of a mid year car, no issues.

considering the exact same move on my SC. the system is complete but only holds a charge for about 13 months. i see a difference with my last job, in the front undercarriage condenser. any tips? easy?

cliff.
a buddy want to sell me the entire system that markwilson installed on his SC, but i dont know if i want to do it. NIB cheap.

Anybody looking to get rid of a good A/C compressor that will work on a 1976 911S?

Hey Rick,

My car is a '73 911T. The bracket is mounted to the chaincover (using the same bolts as the ones of the chaincover)+1 bolt is fitted to the mfi-stack. Can I just loosen these bolts and take the bracket and compressor off as a unit?

You might have to take the bolts all the way out not just loosen them. You will more that likely put the bolts back after the brackets and compressor are removed.

Hey Rick,

I meant take them off, but my english is not that good...
Is there no danger in taking the bolts off the chaincover? oilloss? Do these bolts have to be tightened down to with a certain amount of torque?
Ragards
John